I'm wondering if anyone is using graphite header gaskets on factory 350 olds heads ? I purchased a set of headman shortys for my 76 and they talked me into buying a set . The headers came with an set of thin ones in the box. The graphite ones are a lot thicker anyone ?
Thanks Eric

 

I use flatout header gaskets or fel pro blues. I have re used them up to 3 times after that they leak. Don't use the paper ones they suck and will leak.

 

would you say the graphite ones weren't worth the price ? I don't think I could return them . I guess the ones sent in the headman box are nfg ?

 

What brand graphite ., the flat outs I use are graphite I paid 23 bucks I think., but they will do. When you bolt em on don't crank em down too much. What I do is snug em from the center out untill I feel them tighten up.

 

I would just stick em on there and see.

 

Remflex graphite gaskets 1/8 thickness say their good up to 3000 deg f

 

Those are awesome !

 

Thanks that's good news they do say to tighten from the center out to 20ft lbs . Finally money well spent there lol .
Still trying to get the 225-60-15's to turn off the line .

 

I tried a thick set of graphite type gaskets that others raved about. The header flanges bent when I tightened the bolts--maybe I tightened them more than I should but I didn't want them to vibrate out. The gaskets also came apart when I removed the headers once. I am now using Summit copper gaskets and like them enough that I bought several spare sets.

 

I have never used the remflex but I have heard good things also the thinner graphite gaskets from flatout I have reused as long as you puy them on the right side of the flange and engine they will not leak.

 

Copper?? I've always used the stuff and haven't had a problem. If you do have a problem, you can usually just tighten the bolts down a little harder

 

I asked about the copper ones but performance improvements suggested that I go with graphite since I was running stock heads and not aluminum. You know I have put an edelbrock performer intake with 600 cfm edelbrock carb , new spiral pro talyor wires , new accel coil and pick up , new chain with stock cam had the valves done. new connecting rod bcuz I poured too much oil down the carb before winterizing so I don't do that anymore lol !!!
Put a shift kit in currently running duals 2 1/4 pipe all the way and still can't squak the 225-60-15 tires I have on it . I'm hoping the headers will help it out a bit giving that the stock manifold on the passenger side was blocked off where the crossover pipe went . I would appreciate any help here or suggestions .
Thanks guys
Eric

 

If that's a mostly stock '76-'77 which is what it looks like in the picture, the 8.3:1 compression ratio and 2.73 rear end ratio probably isn't helping either. Get a set of #3 or #4 heads for your compression problem...cam...meh, may as well leave the timing cover alone for a little longer...

 

would the # 3 or # 4 heads bolt rite on without having to do anything else to the motor for a bit . I checked out the rear end posts and I'm thinking about 3:42 gears for the rear but I have to get more info as to the parts I'd need to do this . thanks for the help.

 

I emailed crosstown engine builders in Toronto the tell me the can rebuild my current heads to suit a number 4 head as you suggested. $350 each what do you think . Blast me a reply if you get a chance


Thanks Eric

 

Actually stock your motor is 7.8 to 1 compression. If the heads were done, Fel Pro head gaskets would put you below 7.5 to 1. Problem is your cylinder heads supposed to be 79cc but are usually even more. #1 to #4 330 cylinder heads are around 60 cc, which will put you at 9 to 1 with thicker gaskets. Early 350 heads are around 68cc.

 

Exhaust will help. but not enough. You can try a little higher stall on your torque converter, Also 3.42 gears would help alot too. I have an almost stock 455. Stock intake with 750 Qjet. First had a 350 trans with a 2400 stall converter and a 2.73 open diff. It would spin the one tire from a stop easily. Now I have a 400 trans 2200 stall converter and 3.42 locker in the rear. I have no problem making the tires scream from a stop. You need to find the right combination that works. I think rear gears and torque converter will help alot.

 

I would much rather do something with the rear gears for sure thanks for the tips, Although I'd like a little more power just nothing to crazy . I looked on summits site this morning Auburn limited slip $400 bearing and seal kit $60 3.42 rear pin gear $164. 2000-2200 torque convertor $315. Could anyone add to this or give part names to stay clear of Thanks

 

I spoke to an exhaust shop as well in hopes they are giving me good advice , he mentioned with the mild mods set up I have get rid of the 2 1/4 exhaust pipes and go with 2 " to the mufflers then go 2 1/4 out the back . Apparently this will give it more torque and help it out . I haven't put the headers in as of yet I'm really waiting on what the cheapest best bang for the dollar would give me without high horsepower if this is at all possible.

 

if you want to get a second quote try Mississauga Engines, run by Cesar. great guy. he recently did a mild port and polish on a set of 7a heads for my 350 and I'm very happy with them. If you go with Cross Town engines let us know how it went.

 

2 1/2 and you won't have to do the exhaust twice. Get a set of #3 or #4 heads cut .030 and that will pick up the slack from the thicker head gaskets. Get Corteco brand head gaskets, they're the thinnest and cheapest at .028 thick and like $9 a piece from Rockauto...I don't know what shipping is gonna be to Canada, though. $350 a piece...? Hmmm....get a set of 330's and have them include drilling the head bolt holes out to 17/32 to accommodate the 1/2 inch head bolts you have.

 

And if you're gonna put headers on "sometime"...just do it all at once, exhaust manifolds gotta come off for the heads to come off anyway, and you're not gonna want to put them back on. Just do it all at once, may as well get a used aluminum intake while you're at it, something simple like a edelbrock performer or even an A4 intake from a factory 307.

 

I will give them a call for and let you know thanks

 

I do have a 3711 edelbrock non egr just put on last summer with a 600 edelbrock as well. I had a mechanic set it up for me it does run well but just won't go off the line. I appreciate the advice on the 2 1/2 pipe rather than the 2" suggested Just can't trust these shops or mechanics around here I'm still going to look into the heads a little more so far I'm getting that they can work with my factory heads???? I should have read more hotrod magazines when I was younger lol.

 

Louis at crosstown can only with my originals nothing in stock I emailed Mississauge engines 2day just waiting for a reply .would number 5 heads completely done work without having to do pistons cam etc .? Any help and suggestion would be greatly appreciated .
Eric

 

Thanks to all for your help and suggestions . Just an update going to leave the motor alone for now just going to put the headers on with 2" pipes thru to the back, 3:42 rear gears a 2000-2200 convertor and see how it performs in the spring.

 

How much different in cost for a 2 1/2 system. It's worth difference in price IMO.

 

I didn't ask what the cost difference would be the shop just told me that going any bigger that 2" I would loose low end torque.

 

But it will be there when you finish your other upgrades. So a small loss now is really not an issue for the gain later.

 

To be honest Eric my wife and I really enjoy driving the car, My wife just loves it , Mechanically I have done all I can do with installing the intake , carb , wires etc , getting into heads and pistons and hp, I'm really lost on what will work together. Would I like to turn the tires off the line at times yes for sure !!! Would my wife probably not .

 

Also to add to this I have called a few shops up here not mentioning any names but unless I have a few grand to spend they just don't seem to have the time and I have read some threads on how guys didn't get what they paid for in heads etc. I really need to take the time to educate myself on what I truly have with the refreshed deal I got for $3000. after I bent the connecting rod in it . All I know is they replaced the rod, cam ,chain, and did a valve job. I added everything else myself since. I will keep reading here and try to learn as much as I can.

 

Wicked good idea....there's a lot of knowledge on this site and best thing to do is not make someone else's mistake from which several others have already learned...

 

I understand, we've all been there. Do you already have the headers on there?

 

76 olds fwiw you need to gear it up. I have a mild 350 that I ran in my 72 in my dads 77 b body now. In my car that thing would shred tires and ran good numbers at the track. It went from having headers and an x pipe and free flowing mufflers , a stall and 3.73 gears to manifolds, 2.25 ex. With turbo muffles full exhaust , stock stall, and 2.73 gears. It won't spin em for now I'm going to go to a 3.23 gear. Then we are adding headers. I had 2.56 gears in my cutlass and it was a dog. Gear up the rear if you plan on doing future engine work a 3.42 gear is good for a mild cam and still keep the rpms down.

 

@ Eric no the headers are still in the box until spring wanted to join this site to see what I could learn. Just put myself in a whole new world lol. @ coopercutlass that's the best information I can use much appreciated !! I will run with that set-up in the spring and chime back in.
Cheers Eric

 

Hope I'm not being a pain in the a$$ here !! should I do a 3:42 rear gear open or posi also I believe I have to change the carrier if I'm read things rite . Does the whole unit inside need to be changed ?

 

Yes I belive if it's a gear lower than a 2.73 I think that carrier can be used with a 3.42. Many gm cars had the 8.5 I don't know the ins and outs from a non c clip to c clip axle but others can chime in on that.

 

Thanks the car is in storage so I can't check , I have tried to google the specs on it but not much info, If I had to guess I would think 2:56 that seems to be the number that comes up in my searches. I seen some spacers on summits site and have read guys are using them instead of changing the carrier . I'm just unsure if a posi would be too much for the car considering I don't have the hp you guys have. Although I'm learning but my wife is getting angry with me being on the computer too much lol .
Thanks again

 

Just an update her guys !!! I blasted a PM off to monzaz ( JIM) He was awesome in getting back to me with prices and suggestions!!! I'm hoping to seal a deal.
I had my wife look into a PAY PAL for the transaction LOL !!! Just waiting on the $$$ shipping/custom &taxes/exchange costs to get it to Canada
I'm going with the Eaton perf posi , 3:42 gear , install kit , seals bearings etc. Thanks to all the posts in my thread your help and support was much appreciated. Cheers!!!!!

 

Let us know how it works out.