My name is Patrick but, I prefer going by my nickname, HOCK.

In my lifetime, I have collected a total of 28 classics. Unfortunately, I have not been wealthy enough to keep them. A total of four Oldsmobiles (1966 Olds Starfire - first car; 1960 Olds Ninety-Eight; 1971 Olds Cutlass S - a gift from my Dad but, being young & incredibly stupid, I no longer have it; 1968 Olds Cutlass). I am about to acquire a 1972 Olds Cutlass. For all intent & purposes, it is all stock but, has a few non-stock items. It too, has some issues that I'd prefer to rectify before bringing it home. Here's where YOU come in (if I could tap into your wealth of knowledge) - please.

There is a radiator leak (unknown as to where exactly). I will be driving the car home several hundred miles. The proper thing to do would be to take it to a radiator shop to have it done properly but, I am looking for a temporary fix that will endure highway speeds until I can get it home & have it done right. The gas gauge doesn't work. I have done research to determine the size of the gas tank & the mpg. So, I conservatively figure I can go 200 miles per topped off tank full. When the headlights are on, the taillights don't illuminate. Perhaps a fuse <shrug>. I don't plan on driving it at night but, just the same, I like to have all features function.

The classics I have collected, I have returned them ALL to stock (just as they were on the showroom floor - or as much so as my budget would allow). This classic will be no different. Where might I acquire rally wheel center caps? Looking for as brand new as possible rather than rusty originals. Any assistance would be appreciated.

Pictures will be forthcoming when I bring her home. Stay tuned...

 

Welcome to the site! What direction are you going to pick up the car? I'm down in Southern Oregon near the Cali border and could provide a used radiator plus hoses to help you get home, if your passing through my area.


John

 

Thank you John but, I'm headed East instead of your way.

 

Back when I was a kid you could buy radiator stop leak in a glass bottle. It was a dark liquid with round solid stuff inside. I can't help but think it would also plug up the tubes, but if you just need to get home and deal with the radiator later this might be an option.... if this product is still on the market.


John

 

I am shopping for a set of four SSII wheel center caps. I know on my 1971 Cutlass S, there was an inner center hub that the outer chrome cap was attached to. Does the 1972 SSII center cap also have this hub? Am shopping on ebay & have found sellers that don't mention that inner hub part. Any help would be appreciated.

 

Welcome to the site and congrats on your new play toy. For the coolant leak, get it hot and pressurized to find the source and the seriousness of the leak, repair accordingly. It may be a hose, water pump, radiator/ cap, freeze plug etc...

I'd figure 12 mpg just to be on the safe side for fuel economy.

On the lights a simple 12v jumper wire will make them work in a clinch, as the brake lights are separate circuit.

 

The SSI's have a retainer on the inside. The SSII's are either bolt on with fasteners going through the wheel from the backside and into the ribs of the center cap. Or the later SSII's had clips and were the snap on style. Depending on which wheels you have as to which center cap you'll have to go with.

John

 

Thanx again. I was researching online & found these ways of plugging leaks also (see # 3). http://www.wikihow.com/Seal-a-Leaking-Radiator

 

Thanx, Eric. I might need a bit more explanation on the jumper wire suggestion. Again, this is for temporary fix, only.

John: So, the type of rally wheel will depend on the type of center cap?

 

Those cures only work on small leaks. A VISTA-PRO Part # 433161 usually available through any local parts house for under $100 will work trouble free and is direct bolt in.

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...526&cc=1498511

 

Welcome aboard, on your radiator fix ( if it is indeed the radiator ) I have limped in with a car with a 11 inch crack in the block using Bars leak, took two bottles but got me home 110 miles with only one top off. Your milage may differ and I would only use it for a one time I'm in a jam fix but it worked for me on several occasions....Tedd

 

Tedd & Eric. Thanx for your advice. I am (sadly) not a mechanic of any stretch of the imagination but, will do my best based on the resources I have.

John: You mentioned based on the wheel I have see picture). Does this provide enough information as to what type of center cap it will take?

 

Yes, you have the mid-70's and newer wheels. You'll need the snap on center caps for these. The SSII's came in Argent grey only. Body colored wheels are actually called SSIII's and can be found in 14X6, 14X7 and 15X7 sizes. John

P.S. here's an example of the ones you need. http://www.ebay.com/itm/1974-87-Olds...625942&vxp=mtr

 

See there, I knew this group was a wealth of knowledge. Thank you SOOO much, John. I just so happened to be watching those particular snap on caps (not knowing which kind I needed).

Well, the Cutlass proved to be less of a viable purchase than I had realized. Sadly, I won't be getting this long sought after car after all. :-(

 

Keep your eyes open. There's still a lot of these cars around. If you have a specific car/setup/options that you want, it might be worth posting a thread in the "cars wanted" section.

John

 

Barr's stop leak has come a LOOOONG way since the days of the beads in the bottle. It's now liquid form and some sort of polymer I think. The technology has improved tenfold. It would definitely work for a small leak.