One of my favorites books when I was a kid was the Berestain Bear book-The Bike Lesson. For those of you that do not know this book, the father is trying to teach his son how to ride a bike, which each lesson is a series of mishaps, and ends in the father stating something like, "This is lesson number one, and this is what should not be done; or this is lesson number two, this is what you should not do."

A little less than two years ago, I started to redo my front end, and somehow this has turned into a restoration. The only problem is that I am admittedly a novice and it seems like I take one step forward and two steps back. Hence, the reference to the bike lesson. So, here we go and just maybe there will be a restored car in the end.

In the beginning-

 

When painting the frame horns- make sure you have the right paint selected paint on a non-humid day. When you redo said paint because the POR 15 had several bubles because of said humidity, don't forget to put the hardner in the paint. When painting the frame for the third time, because you forgot to put the hardner in the paint, call it good enough.

 

Any restore on a car like that is worth it. Post pics as you go and this site has good contacts. Good luck and enjoy the journey.

 

Nice looking front end!

Sean

 

Choose you paint well, do not buy paint the is 1200 deg paint that needs baked on for spindle and brake parts, as it will leave a powederly residue everytim you touch it, and yes you will repaint it in the end.

 

When putting the steering linkage together, make sure the tie-rod ends are lined up in the holes and not on a bind, even if it is slight as it may make it almost impossible to turn the tires after everything is tight. Yep, you will loosen them up and do it any way.

 

Holy mackeral, you're not kidding. From a jack under the front to (gulp..) no front clip or engine??? You've got it bad. Been there done that (almost). Fun, isn't it?

 

It is great to buy at a bargin, if you can find parts ahead of the process for a good price and you can afford to do it. However, a bargin may not be a bargin if you do not ask the right question. For the record and for those that do not know a post rear seat is bigger than a Holiday coupe rear seat.

Interior going away to change to black.

 

Enjoy the successes, because another mishap is around the corner.

Its a roller again after almost two years, YEAH!

 

That's what I hear, and hopefully I see it for myself. It will definately be a jouney.

 

Thanks! Third times the charm I quess.

 

Yea, it is bad. That is the problem with this site everytime you look for an answer on this site, it gives you 28 ideas You know like seeing someone refurbish the rear end, and thinking I should/could do that. By the way nice job on that Allan

 

Looking good Troy. Good luck with it.

 

Thanks, I hope my results are half as good as others on this site!

 

That frame looks awesome, not all powdery like mine...

I am also doing that dance; One step forward, two steps back...

Keep up the good work!

Larry

 

That's why I thought I would approach the thread this way. We just need to have the music play a little longer so we can finish the dance.

 

For the record... Which years does this apply to?

As far as I know, for '68-'72 A-bodies, and for B- and C-bodies in the '60s, all rear seats are the same size in coupes, different in convertibles ('71-'75 B-bodies have one seat size for all).

- Eric

 

Yup, we've all been there Troy, one mistake leads to 2 others. Nice work by the way.

 

Here is what I believe I know (70-72), and if there is à better answer I am glad to learn. Since the Holiday coupes have no B pillar, there is à large gusset from the floor to the body, which is almost to the front of the rear seat. I belive this is why GM built the armrest ( box ) and filler plate to cover it. Post cars do not have this set-up.Hence, the rear seat is slightly smaller on a Holiday. I found this out when I took the seat to the uphostetor. He looked at it right away, and said this cover is too big. Laid it on the seat, and definitely was too big.

 

I am very surprised by that, as I have believed for many years that the only back seat difference in those years was convertible vs non-convertible.

I would be interested in knowing whether anybody else has seen this.

If worse comes to worst, I wi check my Parts Manual.

- Eric

 

I was surprised as well, I bought the seat covers off of a member here a while back. He had brand new interior still in the packaging that he got with à parts car I never thought to ask about the back seat. I am process of getting à new one ordered.

 

This matches my experience, and I'm still not sure if 4-door cars have yet another rear seat. The whole discussion *might* just be around rear seat bottoms.
Steve

 

Thanks, someday I may tackle a 67, it was a 67 442 my neoghbor had that made me an Oldsmobile guy.

 

I think it applies to seat backs too. As the upholsteror looked at it too, and it was too big. The upholsteror is a nice guy, and came well recommended. The covers I bought were PUI covers and he looked at the possibility of modifiying them, but he said it would be better to order just a back seat cover if I could find it. So, the back seat cover is ordered from OPGI, and will be here next week. They are the only ones I saw that had the back seat listed seperately. In thier catelog the sedan and coupe have different numbers. So, we will see what comes.

 

Troy go buy this months Muscle Car Review and read The Last Page by Tom Shaw!
It will make you feel so much better. At least you will know you are in good company.

 

NIce work Troy - it will be all worth it in the end and you will have the new knowledge to repeat with the next car!

Sounds like you could have used my SUPER Anti-MAW helmet (some assembly required).
I sold one to my neighbor and it worked fine for him. He rotated his tires and did not even check or clean anything.

 

I need to go out of town for a couple of days for work, sounds like good reading, I will pick it up

 

Well, I was actually waiting for your 2015 model the Super Duper Anti-MAW with idiot factor surpressor helmet. I read somewhere that if you can reduce the idiot factor the MAW's exponetially decrease

 

ummm, no. The 2015 model is pretty much the same as the 2010 model (with same assembly required). It's not the idiot factor that gets in the way, its the 'curiosity quotient'. eg: what would happen if I did this...???? or I wonder if I should just take it all apart???? I found that wrapping my head with aluminum foil does pretty much the same thing as the MAW helmet. It makes you look goofy....

Those aren't idiot thoughts, they're totally logical approaches to learning and restoring.

Warning: Do NOT wear a MAW helmet while driving. It will draw too much attention from other motorists who will in turn lose control of their vehicles and crash as they try to control their hysterical laughter...

 

Sometimes the MAW's are subliminal messages by the voices in your head while consuming alcoholic beverages in mixed company. Usually following a statement like "it doesn't look that hard" or "what can possibly go wrong". Then followed by "here hold my beer and watch this" ...

 

LOL. I thought I was the only one in need of the 2015 helmet, I feel better now. 2015 model with idiot suppressor would suit me better.
If I was to order one, I would probably end up modifying it and painting it because you know MAW make it better.

My most recent project started with replacing the rubber on the fuel lines by the gas tank, ended up installing electric fuel pump, fabricating brackets for it, braided hose, an fittings, replaced the rear control arms and rear end bushings, painted everything. I thought MAW since I have the rear on the stands.

my stomach turns every time I hear "How hard can it be"

 

If you start with a complete pile of chit doing anything can only make it look better:

 

That front cowl looks incredibly good Mike. Hardly a complete pile..... Is that your car at the start of resto?

 

Yeah, that was it in September of 2003 when I first looked at it. the only thing replaced was the floor. Everything else was rusty and covered up with bondo and beer cans. No motor or tranny. That driver's side frame horn was smashed too

 

I had a couple of questions on what paint I used. So, I thought I would post it here.

First the steering gear box was rebuilt and changed to a 12:1 ratio by Chip at Power Steering Services, and for an extra fee ($40, I think) He painted it as a part of the process.

The frame horns and control arms were primered with OMNI MP172 Black Epoxy Primer, and Painted with OMNI MAE Black Paint. This was recommended by my local Auto Paint Store, and I wanted to try my luck in using a spray gun. (This route was prabably more expensive than other alternatives)

The rest of the paints were spray cans from either Advanced, Autozone , or O'Reileys depending on what store carried what stock. The steering linkages and upper control arm shaft were painted with a wheel paint, I really liked the was they came out. The steering arms on the spindles were painted with a high temp paint

 

Lastly, the spindles and sway bar was painted with the following brake paint.

Please keep in mind that these are the second or third attempts, your results may vary, probably better, from mine.

 

Mike, you certainly ran the gambit; but I like your finished product.

 

Awesome Troy,

I picked up some Rustoleum Stainless Steel that looks and sprays great. There are excellent colors and types for less than $5 a can at Home Depot too. I have 2 automotive color supply houses near me to get the good "chassis black" and hardener. I am an X automotive painter and have a few guns but the next bite is gonna have to be a bigger/better air compressor. Mine is a mostly wore out 11 gallon jobber and just don't "get it done" no more. I am spending more time waiting on pressure to rebuild that I get parts sand blasted and it is just about to **** me off so...HUNY new compressor time.

 

 

Woah, vintage w/patina