When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
'71 442 455
I revamped my engine compartment. I put it back together and now I do not have spark to the Distributor.
I labeled everything to ensure I put it back properly. I am fairly confident I did. But,, now, not so sure.
I did not rewire anything.
I did not pull or move the distributor.
I did not move the electronic module in the dist.
I have no blown fuses in the fuse panel.
I swapped out 3 coils. 2 used and 1 brand new.
In the service manual it states to test the coil by using with test light. While cranking the engine, the positive side should light up. IT does. While cranking the engine, do the same with the negative side. It does NOT. The manual says to replace the coil. I can’t have 3 bad coils.
I measured the ohms on the coils. they are measuring 11.03.
I ran a extra ground wire from the coil just to make sure I have a good ground.
I have 2 wires coming from the dist/electronic module: the red wire goes to the positive, the back to negative.
I have 2 more wires going to the positive side of the coil: 1 goes to the tach, 1 to the started solenoid (I think).
I have another brown wire going to the negative side of the coil: it goes up the steering column in towards the ignition switch.
I still do not have spark to the dist.
Variable/ dumb question: Is there any way the wiper motor could be a factor? The only thing out of the ordinary is that I pulled the wiper motor completely out before I tried starting it.
Any advise would be appreciated.
thanks
I still have to finish, but here is a progress pic.
It sounds like you have points ignition. Test light lighting up when connected to the (+) side of the coil when cranking is good (should do this also when ignition switch is in ON/Run position, but might not be as bright since it will be in series with a resistance wire). Test light NOT lighting up when connected to the (-) side of the coil and cranking indicates either a short to ground in the wire between the (-) side of the coil and the points in the distributor, OR the points are stuck closed and not opening up. Check the points gap to be sure it is opening and closing when cranking. If so, it sounds like you have a short to ground in this wire. Or possibly a shorted condenser across the points.
Make sure that brown wire from the (-) side of the coil to the ignition switch is not grounded along the way (not sure what this is for, but if it is grounded, it would defeat the points and prevent a spark). NEITHER side of the coil should be connected directly to ground.
Last edited by JohnnyBs68S; May 14, 2018 at 06:17 PM.
Remove all the wires from the coil. Connect the red to the pos side, the black to the neg side. Connect a jumper wire from the battery pos terminal to the coil pos terminal (tape remaining wires individually so they don't short) and crank the engine with the ignition key. Once running the only way to turn it off is to remove the jumper wire. Let me know if it starts.
Got it. thanks guys! I'll keep you posted.
FYI - I do not have points. it is a electronic module that eliminated the points. I don't know what brand though.
I'll try this tomorrow and will advise.
I hate electrical problems!
I am not good with and don't know much about electrical issues. So this is greatly appreciated.
Oh I thought it started and you figured it out. Connect everything like I said, no other wires including the tach. What this does is take all of the car's electrical system out of the equation. If it still won't start the problem is your module.
Ok,
For clarity, I only hooked up the 2 wires from the Ignition module (Which is a Pertronics Ignitor) . Red to +, Black to -. ran the jumper from the + coil to + battery.
It did not spark/start.
So next question,
What is your recommendation for a new one. Brand and model?
Thanks!
It depends on whether your trying to stay stock looking or not. If your trying to stay stock, then the points replacement is the way to go. PertronixII and III is what most are using. The old Crane XR series is now part of Fitech, supposedly the quality has gone down.
If it doesn't matter, then the large cap HEI is my preference, however it is a bit harder to set up because your not using stock settings.
They kinda suck in reality. Many more go out than you hear about. Some last for ever but others puck and quit at the most opportune times. I'm in that group..... Tedd
