New 1976 442
July 11th, 2016, 07:59 AM
#1
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
New 1976 442
I just purchased a 1976 Cutlass 442 with 9840 original miles.
The previous owner kept it in the garage for most of the past 40 years with sheets covering it and vehicle still has the original tires on it. He started it a few times a month and drove it on occasional weekend down the street. Didn't even do that the past 2 years. Said it got rained on only 3 times.
It starts and runs great needless to say. Other then change the tires, what other recommendations does anyone have? I know I'd be on borrowed time by not doing some kind of mechanical maintenance on it. Thanks.
The previous owner kept it in the garage for most of the past 40 years with sheets covering it and vehicle still has the original tires on it. He started it a few times a month and drove it on occasional weekend down the street. Didn't even do that the past 2 years. Said it got rained on only 3 times.
It starts and runs great needless to say. Other then change the tires, what other recommendations does anyone have? I know I'd be on borrowed time by not doing some kind of mechanical maintenance on it. Thanks.
July 11th, 2016, 08:04 AM
#2
Administrator
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Poteau, Ok
Posts: 40,549
You can perform a tuneup using the parts that are in there. Just clean, regap the plugs, pop the distributor cap and wipe it out, run the engine in the dark and see if the spark plug wires are leaking, new fuel filter, and check all the hoses to make sure they aren't dry and brittle. Change the fluids, check the brakes, and repack the bearings.
July 11th, 2016, 08:15 AM
#5
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
I would be concerned about all of the rubber on the car, especially the fuel and brake lines. Just as tires rot over time, so does all rubber. I would want to change the lines on the fuel tank and all three rubber brake lines. The vacuum lines on the engine are not as critical, but I would address those as well in time.
July 11th, 2016, 10:09 AM
#7
Old(s) Fart
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 47,289
I would be concerned about all of the rubber on the car, especially the fuel and brake lines. Just as tires rot over time, so does all rubber. I would want to change the lines on the fuel tank and all three rubber brake lines. The vacuum lines on the engine are not as critical, but I would address those as well in time.
July 11th, 2016, 12:10 PM
#8
CH3NO2 LEARN IT BURN IT
Join Date: Jul 2010
Location: Land of Taxes
Posts: 4,838
Yes all of the trans fluid not just the pan contents. The pan holds about 1/2 of the total. Use high quality ATF, filter and gasket. The trans shops offer these. Look for a TransStar or an ATRA certified shop to purchase from. TCI, B&M, Hughes, TransGo, Jegs, Summit are another good trans parts sources. There's a pressure test port on the side of the trans. Thread a brass barbed nipple into it attach the correct sized hose to barbed fitting, attach the other end to a bucket. Turn on car for 30 or so seconds until it burps. Should get 16ish qts out of it between the pan and this method.
Cooling sys: Do a complete flush. Once flushed carefully disconnect/remove/save all hoses and belts (for the fact they are original). Separately flush out the heater core, engine and rad. Careful... low to medium water flow followed by low PIS compressed air to blow out all tap water and flush. Install a new HD Stant T-Stat, (steer clear of anything made in china for this car). Refill with high qual premixed coolant(recommended). If you decide to mix your own, use only distilled water to cut it 50/50, Never use tap water. Use water pump lubrication additive too. Fusick has the hoses and belts. Look at the bypass hose. Consider leaving that one alone as long as its not soft. The new hoses are thinner definitely not good and stout as the OEMs were. Had Fusick send two both were thin and bulged with RPMS. Anyone has a source for the thick hoses do share.
Brake sys: As mentioned replace soft lines and flush all brake fluid. Use a power bleeder. High qual brake fluid. (Google Motive products power bleeder). Lube the front caliper sliders, repack front wheel bearings(as mentioned).
Fuel sys: Consider dropping the gas tank to inspect the pick up sock and for sediment. Blow out the fuel lines. Replace all soft fuel lines up to the pump. Replace the fuel filter. Consider pulling the top off the carb to have a look in the float, needle and the bowl, likely sediment in there.
Tires: DO NOT...repeat DO NOT... DRIVE ON THESE ORIGINAL TIRES! REPLACE IMMEDIATELY. Save the OEMs on the OEM rims for show only. They do have value there. Dismounting them will likely rip the beads.
Ignition: When you pull the cap pull the rotor and inspect the weights n springs. They likely need to be cleaned and sparingly regreased.
Give the chassis bushings and all dust boots a good look for rot. The boots can be replaced with out damaging the components by removal, if you know how to do so. Grease the hell out of the front end, (dont explode the dust boots!)
IMO...After all the above, drive the car for 500 miles with a few hour long trips. Then repeat the above fluid changes. This will insure longevity and reliability. You can close up the .080" spark gap on the plugs too. You'll get varying opinions on this. Some like 50 some like 60...nobody likes 80. Use regular Autolites when you do replace them.
FYI if you're new to this game steer clear big box parts houses. They offer nearly 100% chineasium junk. Do not put china junk on this or any car. Look for a NAPA, United, Federated, Carquest etc...and ask for USA, you need to ask as they will push the junk first.
Company called BDI (Bearing Distributors Inc.) has USA bearings and seals, but you gotta ask for USA.
Fusick, Year One, and The Parts Place offer high qual restoration parts, that is if you need any. Always save the original parts when ever removed. To me they are worth more than the core charges. As these mid 70s cars gain value and popularity those original parts become important IMO...
Lastly PICTURES!
Steve
Cooling sys: Do a complete flush. Once flushed carefully disconnect/remove/save all hoses and belts (for the fact they are original). Separately flush out the heater core, engine and rad. Careful... low to medium water flow followed by low PIS compressed air to blow out all tap water and flush. Install a new HD Stant T-Stat, (steer clear of anything made in china for this car). Refill with high qual premixed coolant(recommended). If you decide to mix your own, use only distilled water to cut it 50/50, Never use tap water. Use water pump lubrication additive too. Fusick has the hoses and belts. Look at the bypass hose. Consider leaving that one alone as long as its not soft. The new hoses are thinner definitely not good and stout as the OEMs were. Had Fusick send two both were thin and bulged with RPMS. Anyone has a source for the thick hoses do share.
Brake sys: As mentioned replace soft lines and flush all brake fluid. Use a power bleeder. High qual brake fluid. (Google Motive products power bleeder). Lube the front caliper sliders, repack front wheel bearings(as mentioned).
Fuel sys: Consider dropping the gas tank to inspect the pick up sock and for sediment. Blow out the fuel lines. Replace all soft fuel lines up to the pump. Replace the fuel filter. Consider pulling the top off the carb to have a look in the float, needle and the bowl, likely sediment in there.
Tires: DO NOT...repeat DO NOT... DRIVE ON THESE ORIGINAL TIRES! REPLACE IMMEDIATELY. Save the OEMs on the OEM rims for show only. They do have value there. Dismounting them will likely rip the beads.
Ignition: When you pull the cap pull the rotor and inspect the weights n springs. They likely need to be cleaned and sparingly regreased.
Give the chassis bushings and all dust boots a good look for rot. The boots can be replaced with out damaging the components by removal, if you know how to do so. Grease the hell out of the front end, (dont explode the dust boots!)
IMO...After all the above, drive the car for 500 miles with a few hour long trips. Then repeat the above fluid changes. This will insure longevity and reliability. You can close up the .080" spark gap on the plugs too. You'll get varying opinions on this. Some like 50 some like 60...nobody likes 80. Use regular Autolites when you do replace them.
FYI if you're new to this game steer clear big box parts houses. They offer nearly 100% chineasium junk. Do not put china junk on this or any car. Look for a NAPA, United, Federated, Carquest etc...and ask for USA, you need to ask as they will push the junk first.
Company called BDI (Bearing Distributors Inc.) has USA bearings and seals, but you gotta ask for USA.
Fusick, Year One, and The Parts Place offer high qual restoration parts, that is if you need any. Always save the original parts when ever removed. To me they are worth more than the core charges. As these mid 70s cars gain value and popularity those original parts become important IMO...
Lastly PICTURES!
Steve
July 12th, 2016, 05:57 AM
#9
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
Pictures prior to purchase.
I'll get some under hood, etc pictures later this week.
Again, I appreciate all of your advice immensely. I look forward to making this a very safe ride and to enjoy it for many years. Thank-you
Again, I appreciate all of your advice immensely. I look forward to making this a very safe ride and to enjoy it for many years. Thank-you
July 12th, 2016, 06:35 AM
#10
Hookers under Hood
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Ontario, Canada
Posts: 3,543
Nice find, I'm sure you will get many years of enjoyment from that car. The others gave great advice on what to do to get it in tip top running shape after sitting so long.
Thanks for adding the pics.
Eric
Thanks for adding the pics.
Eric
July 12th, 2016, 09:21 AM
#15
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Austin, TX
Posts: 878
Nice time capsule!
Agree with everyone else here on what to replace, with focus on stopping. A carb rebuild may also be in your future too since the old rubber parts inside are not ethanol safe.
You might find the exhaust rusting out. Materials used back then were not great and short drives accelerate rusting since it does not get hot enough to dry it out.
I have only had 2 tire blow-outs in my life, both on factory supplied Uniroyals in my youth. Not a fan of those even if not 40 years old but you should keep the spare.
Agree with everyone else here on what to replace, with focus on stopping. A carb rebuild may also be in your future too since the old rubber parts inside are not ethanol safe.
You might find the exhaust rusting out. Materials used back then were not great and short drives accelerate rusting since it does not get hot enough to dry it out.
I have only had 2 tire blow-outs in my life, both on factory supplied Uniroyals in my youth. Not a fan of those even if not 40 years old but you should keep the spare.
July 12th, 2016, 06:35 PM
#17
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Poconos, Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,029
Love the silver/red combination on that Olds Nascar body. Suggest changing the gas tank. For the relatively low cost, no sense chancing anything getting into that low mileage engine and components.
July 14th, 2016, 08:45 PM
#18
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Dallas/Fort Worth, Texas
Posts: 310
Wow! Awesome...very impressive car! You simply don't find many cars of this vintage with low mileage like this one. They're out there but few and far between.
The advice given so far, is on par with getting the car safe and roadworthy.
If possible, before getting started with the repairs, take detailed photos of the car to document its originality (decals, labels, paint marking, part orientation, tires, etc.). Keep the original parts you remove from the car, it will help anyone restoring one of these cars and most importantly, it will help with retaining the value of the car over time.
Rare to see regular bucket seats in this year car. Swivel seats seemed to be the more common choice.
Are you planning to keep the "Rusty Wallace Chevrolet" dealer emblem on the car?
Looking forward to more photos and updates on your car.
The advice given so far, is on par with getting the car safe and roadworthy.
If possible, before getting started with the repairs, take detailed photos of the car to document its originality (decals, labels, paint marking, part orientation, tires, etc.). Keep the original parts you remove from the car, it will help anyone restoring one of these cars and most importantly, it will help with retaining the value of the car over time.
Rare to see regular bucket seats in this year car. Swivel seats seemed to be the more common choice.
Are you planning to keep the "Rusty Wallace Chevrolet" dealer emblem on the car?
Looking forward to more photos and updates on your car.
Last edited by macrover; July 22nd, 2016 at 08:23 AM.
July 15th, 2016, 08:04 AM
#20
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
I spoke to the original owner but only after he traded it in to a Chev dealer. He said he got $11,000 for it trade in. I paid $12500 - I've got the original window sticker for this vehicle and it says $5921
I purchased a new 77 442 back in 1977 when I was 21 - the same color scheme, etc and enjoyed it, didn't want to pass the opportunity to have a similar one. Only main diff that I notice body-wise is the vertical grill vs the horizontal on 77. Will get some under hood pics this weekend - amazing to say the least. Thanks for all input!
PS - Removed air breather and took a few more pics - of engine.
I purchased a new 77 442 back in 1977 when I was 21 - the same color scheme, etc and enjoyed it, didn't want to pass the opportunity to have a similar one. Only main diff that I notice body-wise is the vertical grill vs the horizontal on 77. Will get some under hood pics this weekend - amazing to say the least. Thanks for all input!
PS - Removed air breather and took a few more pics - of engine.
Last edited by Furr442; July 16th, 2016 at 08:59 AM.
July 18th, 2016, 02:15 PM
#23
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Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Jacksonville, FL
Posts: 2,659
The engine compartment is beautiful, in the interest of originality, I would send the master cylinder to White Post for restoration, and ask here before rebuilding the carb, that original gold needs to be preserved.
Beautiful car!
Beautiful car!
July 19th, 2016, 10:33 PM
#25
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Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 686
I spoke to the original owner but only after he traded it in to a Chev dealer. He said he got $11,000 for it trade in. I paid $12500 - I've got the original window sticker for this vehicle and it says $5921
I purchased a new 77 442 back in 1977 when I was 21 - the same color scheme, etc and enjoyed it, didn't want to pass the opportunity to have a similar one. Only main diff that I notice body-wise is the vertical grill vs the horizontal on 77. Will get some under hood pics this weekend - amazing to say the least. Thanks for all input!
PS - Removed air breather and took a few more pics - of engine.
I purchased a new 77 442 back in 1977 when I was 21 - the same color scheme, etc and enjoyed it, didn't want to pass the opportunity to have a similar one. Only main diff that I notice body-wise is the vertical grill vs the horizontal on 77. Will get some under hood pics this weekend - amazing to say the least. Thanks for all input!
PS - Removed air breather and took a few more pics - of engine.
Thanks for posting all of that. I had nearly the exact car in 81. Good luck with it.
July 22nd, 2016, 06:51 AM
#28
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Join Date: Mar 2015
Location: Farnhamville, Iowa
Posts: 332
wow awesome you found the car of your youth ! Same color combo !!
I envy you on the interior! I have the same type of seats, aside from being white vinyl but the same stitching pattern. You can get the rear bumper fillers as well.
Before you buy a set, make sure they are the soft rubber ones. Partsplace, OPGI, and I think fusick sell the hard plastic... Don't quite fit right... I found a place that repops the soft plastic a year or so back for my restoration.
I hope you run the original rally rims ! They stand out more so than any kind of aftermarket rim be it American Racing, to Foose.... Hands down better than over sized rims in my book.
I envy you on the interior! I have the same type of seats, aside from being white vinyl but the same stitching pattern. You can get the rear bumper fillers as well.
Before you buy a set, make sure they are the soft rubber ones. Partsplace, OPGI, and I think fusick sell the hard plastic... Don't quite fit right... I found a place that repops the soft plastic a year or so back for my restoration.
I hope you run the original rally rims ! They stand out more so than any kind of aftermarket rim be it American Racing, to Foose.... Hands down better than over sized rims in my book.
July 22nd, 2016, 08:13 AM
#29
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Jan 2007
Posts: 22
"Rusty Wallace Chevrolet" decal on back of trunk gone now. Kept original "Rice Olds" :-)
Thanks fo rinfo on the rear bumper fillers - original ones broke off in your hand... :-(
Going to keep original wheels in place. Where did you get the soft plactic fillers?? THanks for everyones input!!! Good stuff!
Thanks fo rinfo on the rear bumper fillers - original ones broke off in your hand... :-(
Going to keep original wheels in place. Where did you get the soft plactic fillers?? THanks for everyones input!!! Good stuff!
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