Can't believe it. Took the Olds to get inspected for the 4th time this year and hopefully registered. Reverse lights didn't work and then the car wouldn't turn off! Barrel is stuck and can't move the key at all except forwards and that doesn't sound very nice.


B#gger! Lights are an easy fix but the ignition? Not looking forward to sorting that out.


Anybody got any tips?

 

Column shift or floor shift? A/T or manual?

- Eric

 

MOVE TO MARYLAND!!!

The only time that you have to get the car inspected is when you initially purchase it. And if you are putting historical tags on, you do not have to be inspected at all.

The down side of this are some of the junkers that I have seen on the road. I actually saw an '86 s-10 blazer, rusted out and no rear window. But it had historical tags, so it was legal.

 

I believe he lives in Australia.

- Eric

 

How worn is your key?

 

Yeah, check the backdrive linkage from the trans to the steering column. This would explain both the ignition key problem AND the reverse lights. The steering column collar has to be in the correct position to remove the key so that both the column and the shifter are locked, If the backdrive rod is not adjusted properly (or is missing completely), the collar won't rotate correctly. Note that this also operates the backup light switch.

 

Thanks Joe, It is a floor shift auto. Will the reverse lights still apply? Had and look at the service manual and my initial feeling is that it is something mechanical behind the key barrel. Maybe a spring has broken and wedged in there or something. Without a steering wheel puller I can't get in to have a look. I'll have to get a locksmith out just to take it apart.

 

A '71 or '72 floor shift auto will drive the neutral safety switch on the steering column with the back drive linkage.

Easy way to get to the bottom of it is to disconnect the back drive and rotate the column sleeve by hand, which should actuate the switch and release the cylinder so that the key will come out.

- Eric

 

ok, it's not the switch. Can't budge the steering wheel, knees and hammer, used a puller, bent one of the puller rods. These things are sent to test us. It's either something wedged in the rack and pinion gears I can see in the book or the barrel has broken somehow at the bottom. Can't get to it, grr.

 

You've tried removing the backdrive rod from its tab on the front end of the steering column on the engine side of the firewall, and then grasping the sleeve of the steering column located forward of the ignition switch but rearward of the dashboard, and rotating it one way and the other, and seeing if the key will turn?

I've never heard of a steering wheel that didn't pull off with relatively light use of the puller - are you sure there's no washer still in place or anything like that?

- Eric

 

I have had steering wheels fight and need a hammer tap on the puller's forcing screw when tightened up. One was SO BAD, on a '66 Cutlass, that I had to give up. The wheel was PRISTINE so I really wanted it, but I was not willing to apply heat to the plastic wheel's hub. I tightened up the puller, hammered. Tightened more, hammered. Nope. When the tip of the steering shaft began to deform and mangle, I gave up and put the nut back on.

As for the OP's issue, I agree he needs to try forcing the steering column collar counterclockwise and see if that brings the key behavior problem under control.

 

mighty good thumps with a hammer and some persistence and the wheel is now off.

 

Excellent.

- Eric

 

I can only turn the sleeve clockwise and only about 10 or 15 degrees. That movement then makes the Hurst floor shifter move. Where is this rod? Can't find it?

 

It's the rod that's making the floor shifter move.

Open the hood.
Look at the end of the steering column just ahead of the firewall.
See the tab on the column with the rod through the hole in the tab.
Remove the pin that retains the rod in the tab.
Remove the rod from the tab.

- Eric

 

Okay now I have the cover pulled towards me and exposed about a 1/2 inch gap. I can see the thin rod with a spring but not much more. Still can't rotate barrel.

 

I give up.

 

I appreciate your help. Managed to get the barrel out with another big hammer. Small slider thingo in the barrel was bent out of shape. Either a repair by the locksmith or a new one needs to be ordered. Fingers crossed... Little springs everywhere...

go on, roll eyes again!

 

Fixed. Amazing, feeling cheerful now. Only problem is that we managed to dent the bottom of the dash with our knees getting the steering wheel off. How easy is it to source/replace? You wouldn't notice it unless you looked at it long enough, like from the back seat.

 

Okay, don't keep us in suspense - What was the problem???

- Eric

 

Problem was in the barrel. The locksmith had to drill into the side of out to release it once we got the barrel out. He slid out a deformed piece of flat metal about 2cm.long.He said it was mangled so much because of trying to turn the key back so hard.He took it all apart and fixed it. $380 thank you very much.

 

I was wrong then. The lock cylinder is the last place I would have expected a problem.

Usually the tumblers and shear line wear, making it possible to remove the key in any position, and allowing you to start it with a popsickle stick on a good day, but the cylinder still does its job.

I'm very glad you got it fixed!

- Eric