I've read some threads that refer to this...
I'm wondering if my 67 Delta 88 has this resistor wire... and if it is necessary to run a new wire to use an aftermarket (Pertronix or MSD) ignition coil. My coil is working, but looks pretty rough inside (corroded). If my car has the "resistor wire", I may just replace it with a stock coil. Any insight out there?

 

If your running points, then you need the resistor wire. If your running a pertronix or an HEI style distributor then it needs to be replaced or bypassed.

 

Yes, if nobody has messed with it.


Pertronix says it's not necessary, but others have found that sometimes it is.


If your coil is working, why mess with it?

If it ain't broke, don't fix it.

- Eric

 

I'm running a pertronix conversion with a stock coil now.
From what I gather in the other threads, it's probably best to just run a new separate wire, so the resistor wire stays intact as a backup. I'm not sure if an aftermarket coil would give me any performance gain at all... to justify the added effort?
The car runs really good now. The coil looks pretty old... and it has green corrosion it it. I was going to clean it up, but then thought that might kill it. Maybe just a new OE type coil... which I assume, would use the existing wires?

 

I agree... but it looks pretty rough. It obviously one of he oldest parts under the hood. If nothin' else I'd like to have a spare in the trunk. If I go with a new aftermarket coil, I'll keep this one as a spare (which is why I want to retain the resistor wire)

 

You can just cap and stow the resistor wire and run a new wire. On the coil, if it's green because it's leaking and slimy, then another is a good idea. If it's just ugly, a light sanding and some black paint will freshen it right up.

 

Don't fixate.

Brass corrodes to green. Believe me, it won't slow down 30,000 volts.

It is never a good idea to replace a well-made, fully-functional, American-produced part with a new, poorly-made, foreign part.

- Eric

 

actually, if it is corrosion, the OP would be smart to replace it, to prevent future problems. the green is an oxidation layer, this is an insulator. this would cause the secondary voltage to have to burn through it. over time, this process will lead to burning of the contacts inside the coil tower, both the coil contact area and the contact of the lead going to the distributor cap center terminal. at the very least, the corrosion should be cleaned off down to shiny metal and silicone grease should be used to coat the contact interface. if the coil is leaking-it should be replaced before it overheats and fails. I'm sure the OP could find a good, used coil if he didn't want to risk buying a "new, poorly-made, foreign part".


bill

 

Sure, by all means, clean it. But a little green corrosion on a brass contact is no reason to throw out a perfectly good part.

- Eric

 

I used a universal relay to route power from the junction block on the fender to the ignition. You use the old resistance wire as the trip wire to turn the relay on and off. It works perfect and you don't have to tap your ignition into some other circuit that may be over taxed to begin with.