Hey guys,I've bought an engine, ''f'' block ,''n'' crank, ''c'' heads.The engine came w/new rebuild kit from Mondello's,including an engle cam[22-25-10]Also ''comp cams'' magnum roller tip rockers.The lifters,pushrods are missing,and the heads are bare.Since i have the comp rockers i'd like to buy the other parts from them to.Thinking they would compliment each other.
Are they good parts?Like to get some ideas berore i buy.I'm a little scared of mondellos,usally where theres smoke...So lets hear it!! Thanks for any input,BO P.S....some of the forums seem to be locked,reason for this??

 

In my opinion Comp Cams produces fine, high quality parts. I run a lot of Comp Cam parts in a 650 hp 430 ci '58 Mercury MEL block engine I built 18 months ago. Had a lot of problems with stuff from the now defunct Crane before getting smart.

When you get ready to buy push rods do your self a favor and invest in one of Comp Cams push rod length checking tools if you want a dead on correct length push rods. It will be the best $20 something dollars you'll spend when it comes to push rods. Then spend the extra bucks and buy their best heat treated, seamless, drilled push rods and never suffer a bent push rod again. You'd blow a head right off the block before one of those push rods will bend. Their hydraulic and mechanical roller lifters are super as well if you want to run a roller cam, which I do on the engine referenced. Comp Cams doesn't produce a roller cam for those old Ford MEL block engines and I run a custom grind Isky cam in it, but I do have their mechanical roller lifters in it.

 

ALRIGHT!Thank you sir,yes i'll be getting a checker,and ordering pushrods last.I'm also going to try, via milling,to end up with stock length pushrods.Anyone know ,or tried it?I understand stock wont be strong enough.Please chime in,thanks.Going to the junk yard ,yeah!!later,BO

 

I wouldn't worry about attempting to maintain stock push rod length, since that length is likely incorrect for the whole setup. You said the heads are bare. Are you saying no valves or valve springs installed? If installed, you need to make sure the valve springs are right for the cam. If you are not sure, I'd call Engles and buy a set of springs that match the cam. Stock springs might not be stout enough to effect proper valve closure with a fairly aggressive cam and it ain't no fun finding that out after the engine is assembled and in a car.

 

yes sir,the cam has .523'' lift its an Engle.I looked up a comp cams grind w/same numbers to get correct springs,retainers,locks,lifters.I dont have valves,and was hoping to find stock valves.Is this a bad idea?they will be getting multi angle grind,so if the machinist says there straight?trying to save a little here,what you think,thanks,BO

 

Personally I'd go with new stainless valves, though I fully understand the idea of saving money. Saving money on the wrong thing can turn around and bite one at the least desirable time. I've got a lot of scars from bites like that. Aside from that, you can't save that much. Even stainless valves are basically cheap.

 

yeah,your probally right.might as well figure them in.hey thanks.bo