mmurphy77

Driver's motor died 1/2 way down yesterday (jumped 12v to each lug on the motor and got nothing). My '71 Fisher Body Manual provides a template and directions to drill 3, 3/4" holes in the inner sheetmetal to access motor mounting bolts (????). Sounds like a plan since I can't see any other way of unbolting motor assy from the regulator, I guess I'm surprised that Olds didn't put more forethought into future replacement. They do go on to remind to put adhesive tape over the holes when finished
Any suggestions to make it easier (like how to keep the regulator from 'springing' back once motor drive is disengaged)?

Lady72nRob71

If you secure the window in the up position, you do not have to worry about springback. Drill the holes and remove the motor. When reinstalling the motor, you might have to lower the window slightly to remesh the two gears together. I just hate the thought of drilling more holes in that already swiss-cheese door panel. Besides, these are BIG holes that require big bits.

If I was you, I would forget the drilling - just unbolt and remove the whole regulator assy, then replace the motor, then reinstall the regulator.
Might be a tad more work, but you can then also inspect the regulator teeth and lube it up good when out.
You will need to support the window internally with some wood blocks while you unbolt the reg and disengage the roller.
If your door is like mine (a 72 vert), the regulator can be extracted through the biggest door access hole without loosening anything else. It will be tight, but it will come in and out. With yours being stalled in the half down position, it may be more difficult to extract it. Unbolt the regulator until you can pull the window up and support it.

After motor replacement, apply power to the reg with a battery charger to get the arm in this position and insert like so (this is right side, mirror this for the left side):


You might have to pull outward on the inner door panel to gain the needed extra 1/2 inch or so clearance. Doing so will allow it drop on down...


Connect wiring and install one of the top bolts loosely and move window to get rest of bolts to align. You might have to apply power to the motor in short bursts to align it but remove your hand from in there first!

Good time to clean any debris out of there and lube the lock and latch mechanism, too, while the door is opened up.
Heck wash it out and POR15 in there, too!

When replacing the motor, you can bolt the reg to the workbench and hold the arm in place while the motor is removed and reinstalled.

Hope this helps...

mmurphy77

Thanks Rob. The more I look at this the better writing a check looks!

rcorrigan5

If my memory serves me correctly, you can rebuild your old motor (if you want to maintain originality), as long as the windings have continuity. I rebuilt a '71 Corvette pwr window motor several years ago - the brushes were bad and that was it. Works like a charm to this day.

Randy C.

Lady72nRob71

Randy has a good point - did not think of that!
The job sounds and looks very complicated, but all in all, not too bad. I did not have any drama with my front regulators.
Allocate a saturday and trat yourself to a 6 pack afterwards!
Be glad you are not doing the rear, where half of the interior has to come out...
Of course everyone's skill set and patience levels differ, so if you are not comfortable doing it, take it to a shop.
I would recommend that you remove the door panel and door trim and watershield so the shop will not damage any of it. You can reinstall it when you get the car home.
Chances are the shop will not put the watershield on right anyway and yyou will have water leaking inside.

rocketraider

Go get that 3/4" metal-cutting hole saw and do what the Fisher book says. It will save you all the aggravation of removing that regulator and then putting it back. I've done this job both ways and doing the motor alone is the way to go if the motor only is bad.

The template and holes trick came out of the field service groups in 1965 or so. What always struck me as weird was why FB didn't put the access holes in the inner door panel to begin with, after they came up with that idea. I guess they figured there wouldn't be enough PW installations to justify an extra punching operation.

Whatever you do, make sure that regulator and window is blocked up tight and cannot move while you're in there working. That spring is a lost arm or hand waiting to happen.

Have you tried working the window after the motor has cooled down? The motors have thermal overloads.

mmurphy77

I tried the motor cold and still nothing. Got the reman motor today so will do it tomorrow or the next day. I would prefer to try the Fisher way by drilling access holes but my main concern is that damn spring since the window is 2/3 down. When unbolting the motor will the spring try to lift the glass or will the weight of the glass allow it to 'fall'? Is there a good way to fully raise the glass assy and hold it until I can get the new motor in place?

Yellowstatue

The spring is a counter balance, sort of like your garage door....the weight of the glass on the spring should have a neutral effect, so to speak...so if you unbolt the motor from the regulator with the glass still in, it won't explode (scissors)...as it would if the glass were not attached to the regulator...I almost took off my finger the first time around If you decide to take it to a shop, please keep your door panel and other stuff at home..they won't get lost or damaged...

Lady72nRob71

Right. Pop the manual override on your garage door and it should sit still (but may still move a little bit if spring is out of adjustment). The spring pushes UP on the glass to offset the weight of the glass. Without the spring, the motor would not have the torque to raise the window.

Ideally, if the regulator's spring was just right and you only unbolted the motor, the glass would not move - just stay where it was.
You would be able to lift it up or push it down by hand once the motor is removed.
I had the linkage break on one of my rear regulators and it was this way.

DO still put wood blocks under the glass until you find out how it reacts.
This operation should go well for ya.

mmurphy77

Replaced the motor today (went to a friend's shop to use the hole saw). After drilling 3, 3/4" holes to access mounting bolts it literally took 3 minutes to swap the motor and tighten!!! Regulator never moved and it was a breeze. Cleaned and lubed everything. Thanks everybody for all your input!

hastingsman

Hey fellas- I see that this post is several years old, but the info is still very relevant today. I need to replace all of the power window motors in my '72 Cutlass convertible, starting with the fronts.

The template and directions from the Fisher Body Manual mentioned in the post seem like exactly what I need at this point. Any ideas as to where I can find a manual or, ideally, a reprint of the template?

Thanks- Jon