Help with rear end ID and plan
#1
Help with rear end ID and plan
Ok...I've been reading and am on info overload.
Car is a 1965 Cutlass (not 442), 330 and Jetaway, and drums on all 4 corners. I plan to rebuild the 330, probably bored .030 and go with a TH350 or TH400. I'll definitely be upgrading to disks on all four corners. No plans to regularly race at the strip, but might want to run it down once or twice in it's life just for the heck of it.
Questions
1. Where are the markings on the rear end housing? Mine is completely covered and I don't want to waste time stripping all the grime off. Has a 10 bolt cover.
2. Is this rear even worth rebuilding, given the need for new gears, axles, and the move to disks?
3. If it's worth rebuilding (and possible), what should I go with?
4. Or will it be easier to find a 68-72 rear end that's already setup for disks and rebuild it?
I know 507Olds and monzaz (to name a few) have all the answers, so I'll say Thank You rear end gurus.
Car is a 1965 Cutlass (not 442), 330 and Jetaway, and drums on all 4 corners. I plan to rebuild the 330, probably bored .030 and go with a TH350 or TH400. I'll definitely be upgrading to disks on all four corners. No plans to regularly race at the strip, but might want to run it down once or twice in it's life just for the heck of it.
Questions
1. Where are the markings on the rear end housing? Mine is completely covered and I don't want to waste time stripping all the grime off. Has a 10 bolt cover.
2. Is this rear even worth rebuilding, given the need for new gears, axles, and the move to disks?
3. If it's worth rebuilding (and possible), what should I go with?
4. Or will it be easier to find a 68-72 rear end that's already setup for disks and rebuild it?
I know 507Olds and monzaz (to name a few) have all the answers, so I'll say Thank You rear end gurus.
#3
check this out, keep the rear end, you wont break it with a 330, probably,
http://442restoration.homestead.com/...SMISSIONS.html
http://442restoration.homestead.com/...SMISSIONS.html
#5
Axle tube suffix codes
Olds Should be on the driver tube rear between the spring perch area and the cast center section... MIGHT be at the bottom of the tube if it is a BUICK axles and chevy will have its axle tube suffix letter code on the passenger front axle tube same spot between the spring perch and the cast center section housing .
REBUILD- rebuild a existing rear is USUALLY a good idea as you know it is a good straight core with no issues. ANY open rear can be made posi with the parts.
Strength- You will be fine with strength even 455 olds on the street and burn outs.
Disc brakes- Most all disc brake companies should bolt to GM ends the company I use has a disc brake kit that mounts to the back of the backing plate mounting flange (axle tube flange end) Some mods will be required with just about any disc brake swap... grinding mock-up etc. expect that.
68-72 rear- This rear maybe too wide for your early a-body and if you are using stock wheels rubbing the rear 1/4's could be an issue and with disc brakes you will be required to run at least 15" rims.
Jim
J D
REBUILD- rebuild a existing rear is USUALLY a good idea as you know it is a good straight core with no issues. ANY open rear can be made posi with the parts.
Strength- You will be fine with strength even 455 olds on the street and burn outs.
Disc brakes- Most all disc brake companies should bolt to GM ends the company I use has a disc brake kit that mounts to the back of the backing plate mounting flange (axle tube flange end) Some mods will be required with just about any disc brake swap... grinding mock-up etc. expect that.
68-72 rear- This rear maybe too wide for your early a-body and if you are using stock wheels rubbing the rear 1/4's could be an issue and with disc brakes you will be required to run at least 15" rims.
Jim
J D
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