I was driving on the highway and noticed that my steering wheel turns a good 5-6 inchesleft and right before any noticable movment of the car!!!! Its like I have lost control of the car a little. Im prettry sure i need a steering gear box. If Im goning to do the swap, I would like to get the quick ratio style. Ive read that the G body Monte Carlo SS, Olds 442, and grand National has the quick ratio setup and will be a direct fit. I also read that the F body 82-92 Z28/WS6 Trans Am would be the best to get. Is this true?? What modifacations would I have to perform to make the WS6 box work?? I would like to know because there is an individual who has an 82-92 WS6 steering box for sale pretty cheap and I will go this route if it is feasable.

 

Power Steering Services can convert your stock box. I did that this last winter works great.
Have you checked out the front end could be a lot of loose parts up there.

 

If you use a late 70's trans am or z 28 it will give you the quick ratio and your hoses will hook up

 

I been reading up on the jeep gear box as well just another thought

 

I replaced the stock box in my 72 w a fast ratio rebuilt unit from rock auto (lares) lifetime warrenty made in USA direct fit. about $200 to my door

 

If you use a Z/28 or T/A box you will lose turning radius and won't be able to u turn with out doing a 3 point turn or you'll have to use a really wide road. I'd use the Jeep Grand Cherokee steering box, fast ratio and you will still be able to u turn. The internal stops are more in line with the postions of the stops in your original box so you'll be a u turning fool.
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...ap-w-pics.html
I did the swap in my 67 Cutlass and it is, hands down , the best modification I have made. I'm happier with the steering upgrade than I am with the front disc brake upgrade I installed. It really improved the steering feel of the car. When I turn the steering wheel the car turns. My car was like yours with 5-6 inches of play. It was like Toonces the driving cat was behind the wheel. Use the JGC swap you won't be sorry.

 

I believe this is the rag joint number this was from a thread from here he used a 95 jeep grand ch

Jeepbox, off to autozone for a Dorman 31011 rag joint

 

If the jeep box works in a 64, definitely do it. It was like night and day on my 72.

 

It should I believe therobski put one on his build
64 post F85

 

brand new agm box from summit $380 bucks works great no worn out junk yard crap and makes a big diference in driving a 50 year old car

 

Then definitely go for it. $40 for a waranteed, used jeep box, $30 for the rag joint, best $70 I spent on the car.

 

I just checked with napa 130 for a re man one but you need a core @80bucks

 

I've probably got more bad parts directly from the auto parts store than at salvage yards. The price differential is worth the possibility of a bad used box to me. Besides, steering boxes dont seem to go bad very often.
http://www.car-part.com/

 

Ok!!! I think the JGC steering box it is!! So I need to change the rag joint and get adapters for the power steering hoses correct?? Are both of these items in stock at our local autoparts store?? (Autozone, Orileys Napa, Advance??) I dont mind paying the $130 at NAPA for the JGC gearbox, I will just make sure i bring the core replacement with me. Is there anything else that is needed to complete this swap?? When I install the gearbox, do I have to make sure that the gear box os centered before I install the steering linkage??

 

Only $380, Is that all? I spent $25 at All State Auto Wrecking and got a 30 day warranty.
http://www.texasautorecyclers.com/lo...-auto-wrecking
Pulled it my self and had around 20 to choose from. The first one I looked at was bad and leaking out the pitman arm seal, I moved on to the next. I could buy 15 used boxes for the price of the new box. That just doesn't make sense in my book. My used box doesn't leak or feel worn out. I'm happy with it. It's still clean and dry after nearly 2000 miles. With a new rag joint and the Lee adapters plus fluid and I'm in the whole job something like $80, with the other $300 still in my pocket.

 

Lee power steering sells the rag joint coupling assembly and the adapters.
http://lee-powersteering.com/rebuild-misc.htm
I only bought the adapters from them. I found the coupling assembly at a local auto parts for 1/3 of the price Lee had it listed for. I used a Dorman/ Motormite 31011 steering coupling assembly. It includes the cast iron, bow tie shaped splined piece you'll need to fit the JGC box to your old steering column. The only thing extra I had to do to make it all work, other than the normal remove and replace was to loosen my steering column from the dash and fire wall so I could move it in towards the inside of the car. I needed about an 1/8 inch more room to get it all together easily. It was SO close to fitting without doing this, but I had to. Then I tightened it back up after getting the coupling together. Good luck with the install.

 

I would look up gary68 build its a good thread well documented !
I am not there just yet ,so I can't give a you any info on lines but in his thread he used monte Carlo hoses from I believe a mid 80s
I would center wheels and mark every thing , steering wheel , included . when you get the new box , I count turns all the way from lock to lock and divide and center in the middle just make sure to mark and recheck ,dont forget bleed out the system before starting engine if you need more info on bleeding the system feel free to pm me .

 

What year jgc and 2 wheel drive or 4 wheel drive?

 

93-98 Grand Cherokee steering box, $40-50 used (just look for leaks), $120 new Autozone (not sure if they'll take the Olds box for core). Never found any 2wd/4wd difference or any other ratio. Original A body was about 16:1 (felt like driving an old school bus),GC is about 12.7:1, huge difference.
Dorman rag joint 31011, $40 Autozone, $30 ebay
You reuse the A body pitman arm.
Hoses: your pump is invereted flair, jeep box metric O ring, options:
Lee adapters, reuse your lines.
Get metric high pressure line, cut off pump end, flair it, buy a universal Doorman return line.
Get metric high pressure line, swap the fitting in the back of the pump for a new metric. You can take the hi pressure fitting out of any 80s+ GM V8 pump and swap it directly. Dorman universal return.
Speedway Motors sells PS hose, fittings, adapters to make your own.
Installation, Loosen column bolts under dash and at firewall. Replace box, Tighten in the following order, Rag joint, box, under dash column, firewall last. These old cars flex and the column and firewall can cause some misalignment if tightened first. Also do it on all 4 wheels.
Unconfirmed box codes, sticker on top:
1993 Alpha code AL or BT
1994 Alpha code AL, BT, or PD
1995 Alpha code JH
1996 Alpha code KD
1997-1998 Alpha code WK or BT

 

The jeep box looks like a great mod, and Gary knows his stuff that's evident. I was gonna go w the jeep box mod, but after adding it up its within $50+- of the new rebuilt fast ratio lares box w lifetime warranty btw the lares box comes w a new rag joint all for about $200. The lares uses the factory lines so no futzing w adapters or flaring. I'm not knocking the jeep box it's great mod, but for a direct drop in replacement consider the made in USA lares option too.

Initially I had some concerns when I first installed my lares box, I emailed them, they got right back to me, later I called them and talked to a real person...to me that sealed the deal good product us made/remaned, lifetime warranty and great customer service

 

I've been digging into this recently, so just a few more notes:

The jeep box has a *slightly* limited turning radius compared to the stock box. Nowhere near as bad as the F-body boxes. I believe it uses the .19? t-bar.

The Lares 972/974 boxes are even faster ratio than the Jeep (10:1 instead of 12.7:1), but should have the stops in the right place. I haven't found what size t-bar is used in them, though.

 

Where can I find info on the Lares boxes?

 

http://www.larescorp.com/

Is their website although it may be easier to go to rockauto and look up what options are available

I believe mine is the 974

 

Excellent write up Gary 68! Im going this route. Get the adapters and install on the JGC steering box.

Does this consist of all the parts that I need for the swap??

 

If it isn't too worn, you can adjust the overcenter load stud and locknut on the top cover.

 

1 more question, which power steering line is the pressure side and which line is the return??

 

The return has a hose clamp at the pump.

 

All you should need is

• a steering box (new, rebuilt, junkyard - your choice),
• a rag joint (if using a newer box, like the Jeep box, with the smaller input shaft),
• a way of connecting the pressure hose:
  • EITHER a relief valve from a newer car, and a newer-car hose,
  • OR a Lee fitting and your original hose,
• a way of connecting the return hose
  • EITHER a Lee fitting
  • OR a NAPA (or similar) hose-barb fitting, and
• IF your pump is pre-1970, you need a relief valve from a post-'70 car, or you may not get enough boost.

Lee had a minimum order when I ordered that made two adapter fittings the same price as one, so I ordered two pressure-side fittings (instead of a pressure and a return) so I can do two cars, and used a NAPA hose barb (with no Lee fitting) for my return.

Here's a photo of a hose barb fitting:



The rag joint should be a Lares 202 (about $30 at Advance Auto) or a Dorman 31011 (about $75), If you use the Lares (and maybe the Dorman, too - who knows?), make sure you've got enough clearance to the casting for your socket to go completely over the 12-sided pinch bolt nut - if it's only part way on, you could think you tightened it when you didn't, with "exciting" results on the road (see here).


I'm sure you've already read this thread, but if not, it is very helpful and thorough, especially after the first couple of pages.

The pressure line is the line with the flare fittings, the return line is the line with the hose clamps.

The pressure line carries 1,000psi, so it is important that it be in good condition and well sealed.

The return line is low pressure, so hose clamps seal it just fine.

- Eric

 

Thanks Eric! I got it. I will post my results in a couple of days. Im off to order and search the J yards for parts!

 

I asked the guy who answered the phone at Lee Power Steering about using the older pump with the newer steering box, he said the pressure differential isn't enough to make a noticable difference while driving. I used a rebuilt A1 Cardone pump for my 67 and the JGC box and have plenty of power assist with no strange noises from the pump. It took two tries with the A1 Cardone pumps before I got a good one that didn't leak from the shaft seal. They seem to be the only rebuilder that most of my local parts stores carry.

 

Okay, if it works, it works, but the pressure difference between the two valves is roughly 800-900psi for the older one vs 1200psi for the newer one, if I recall.

- Eric

 

Here is a great write up of bleeding the system ! I don't have the writing skills has some

Found in a thread on this same topic

https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums/showthread.php?t=22736

Just adding another detail....

Power Steering Bleeding procedure (or What i did)

1. Tighten all your lines
2. Fill Resovior up to the fill line
3. jack up car allowing wheels to hang free
4. WITHOUT TURNING ON THE MOTOR Turn wheel from lock to lock about 10 times
5. Check resovior- Top off to the line if its low.
6. Turn wheel from lock to lock another 10 times or so
7. Check Resovior
8. Turn the wheel from lock to lock a bunch more times- Check & refill the resovior occasionally.

What you are doing is using the steering gear to act as its own pump to circulate the fluid. At this point since there is still air in the system you don't want to start the motor, as the pump will whip the fluid into foam- which takes forever to disapate.... So basically do the turning the wheel thing until you are practically bored out of your mind from turning the wheel.

9. After a while you will not notice anymore bubbles popping in the fluid and the level not dropping anymore- now start the car- Just for 30 seconds the first time. Then get out and check the resovior for foamy bubbles. If you have any- you will need to let them disapate and return to turning the wheel manually.
If no serious foam- then start the car again, and now turn the wheel lock to lock slowly- with the engine running- go check teh resovior for foam again...
Still no foam- continue turning lock to lock for a little bit with the engine running.

Once the level stops dropping and there is no more bubbles appearing after turning- your steering system has been bled.

Put the car on the ground and go drive it.

 

Sounds like a lot of trouble.

When I've done it, I've just filled it up, raised the front wheels, started the car, rolled the steering wheel lock to lock a bunch of times, refilled, done it again, repeated until the level was steady, and driven the car.
It usually takes a couple days for the residual air to get out, so it should be rechecked a couple of times, but that's it.

Nothing wrong with your way - I'm just not that patient (also, the manual recommends my way, so it can't be that bad).

- Eric

 

I was looking at the rock auto listing some of the Lares Units come with the rag joint already and are already 3-3 1/2 lock to lock with adapters necessary for around $120 ....plus core charge ...I might go that route myself and of corse check for any other worn steering parts ..

 

"The rag joint should be a Lares 202 (about $30 at Advance Auto) or a Dorman 31011 (about $75)"


Why is the Lares unit about half the price of the Dorman unit?? Is the quality of the Dorman much better than the Lares??

 

Guess I lucked out - used one from a 67 GTO on my 65 Chevelle - a true bolt-in!

 

I couldn't figure that out myself.

I bought mine at Advance, and was surprised at how much the Dorman unit cost, so I found the Lares number and plugged it in.
The online guide did not show the Lares part when searching, only with the number, and when I got to the store, they could only find it by their internal part number (which I had).

The part looks just the same as all other rag joints to me, and, as with many auto parts, I wouldn't be surprised if they were all made in the same factory.

- Eric

 

Rock Auto had the Dorman for about $40. They had the Lares for $17.
I found a couple part numbers for the Lares and wasn't sure which to use (200 and 202). I went with the Dorman. Besides, 2 areas I dont mind spending a little extra, steering and brakes. Not sure I want a $17 part holding the steering together.
Btw, the rag joint is for a mid 70s half ton chevy pickup.

 

Yeah - the 200 vs 202 part number thing bothered me too.

It said 200 all over the web, but when I actually checked specs on the Lares site, the right part was 202, so that was what I got, and it worked.

- Eric

 

I'm at work, so no real computer, but, from my phone:

200 .......... 202

3 1/4" .......... 3 5/32". OD

2 9/16" .......... 2 3/8". Bolt Spacing

13/32" .......... 5/16" and 3/8". Pin Diameter

2 7/16" .......... 2 1/2". Pin Spacing

Yes .......... No. Grounding Plate

- Eric