I have a question regarding what type of seam sealer to purchase for different areas for my '68 442.

It looks like the trunk channel and the drip rails use a similar sealer. It is white or cream in color. What kind should I purchase? Each area needs a new coat.

I also need to seal the seams on and around my floor board. This is black. Again, what kind should I purchase?

Lastly is sealing the heater box and all items on the firewall. I'm not sure exactly I'm going to get that shot on look, but at least I should get the correct material for sealing. Ideas?

Thanks

 

That sealer on the firewall around the grommets and stuff cuts with paint thinner so it has to be solvent based? Reminds me of thick hot-roof tar. I didn't have to mess with it so got me.
I just had a few seams that needed done so I used the black Surethane from Eastwood and it worked well. It can be used for glass so I also used it to re-set the T-gate window in the channel. Eastwood has several types including the brushable and has the correct colors. The seam on the cowl looks like it's brushed so I used an old paintbrush with stiff bristles to make the brush marks in the Surethane. I guess brushable would have been better but I'm happy and it's paintable/painted, don't use silicone whatever you do.
3m makes a good line of sealers if you prefer to get it locally. I've seen other brands at the paint store and some parts stores too.
I'd like to know how to duplicate the firewall splattered on look too.


http://eastwood.resultspage.com/sear...&w=seam+sealer

http://solutions.3m.com/wps/portal/3...be6DTWTJQPBBgl

 

Quoting from my interior thread:

"The perimeter body seams were resealed with 3M Ultrapro 08300 body seam sealer. Although the 08505 is more widely available, 3M has had complaints of the odor lingering inside cars for up to a month after installation. The 08300 was later recommended by 3M to use inside."

I got this 08300 at Napa auto parts for about 20 bucks and used it on the floorboard. One tube did the whole floor pan. There is a picture in my "interior makeover" thread. The old stuff was like dried up black roof tar; it all scraped off effortly. I used solvent to remove any residue. Surface cleaning is the key to a good bond.
The 3M 08300 is very easy to use in a caulk gun and has no lingering odor. The 08505 is great for outside seams. Auto body and paint shops should carry them, too. Both are cream in color, but when covered up or painted, it would not really matter.
Not too sure on the heater box seal...

 

I used POR patch on my car. Dries like JB Weld.

One or 2 guys on realoldspower said that solvent based sealers shrink over time and are no good, but I have no idea.

I don't worry about "over time" because I'm betting on wrecking the damn thing way before I have to worry about my seam sealer shrinking.

 

POR patch works wonders. I used it in the weatherstrip channel around the trink to seal up small rust holes and keep any new rust from forming. Tough is the least you can say about it!

With 3M seam sealer, two coats of POR15, and two layers of dynamat, I will be most likely in the ground before my floorboards start coming apart...

 

I used:
1. 3M in the tube so a tip can be cut to size and pull tight with fingers.
2. Eastwood quart size. Use acid brush for soldering. Hobby shops are good to get brushes from a hand full for a $1. Hardware store couple brushes for a hand full of $s.
3. I wish I had 3M Strip-Calk part no. 088578 (black) at the time I did my heater box and fan.
http://site.mcminone.com/product/3M-...55-2-/108-3190
you don't have to buy it at this link. The link is just to show you what it looks like.

 

Would any of the aforementioned stuff work on the roof drip rail and would you need it if you are going with a vinyl top? Getting ready to take my car in for body/paint and if I need to put this stuff on first I would like to make sure it gets done.

Thanks
Keith

 

1. 3M in the tube so a tip can be cut to size and pull tight with fingers.
I used on my supreme before taking it to paint no vinyl. I figured if they do not strip it out will be OK, if they do then they will redo it. Either way it should be done.
I would think with a vinyl top you would want that seam filled with something, because water might get under the chrome and vinyl. Filling it up would make it a tighter fit. Was there anything there originally? Also, ask the paint shop they should know, but maybe like my paint shop they are a little in the dark on the original refurb. Just trying to help.