I did quite a bit of reading and some people say they fit, others claim the do not.

I took a risk, and bought some "blemished" ones off Jegs, they were more than HALF the Price of Hookers.

The passenger side went on without a problem. Only had to take off the oil adapter and then put it back on. Lots of room to spare all around.

The drivers side fits, but only when I take the conversion brake proportioning valve off I got from OPGI. I imagine that the headers were made for the drum brake style or maybe the earlier 71 style proportioning valve which mounts further down and to back of car than the conversion kit from Original parts Group which goes directly onto the frame using the front most hole of the original mounting bracket. I think i can take the header to the pipe bender and there is room to move that one pipe that hits more toward the block. It clears the stock starter fine.

I don't see anything wrong with the flowtech, and for being "blemished" they look ok. Scratches here and there, but miles better than the ugly painted ones I used to have. The one thing I did notice is that the passenger side header angles inward toward the transmission near the reducer. I am not sure if that is normal for a BBO header. I wont know if it all matches up till I attach the dynomax exhaust kit.

In these pictures you can see the driver side headers. The small brake line tube is the one that comes over from passenger side. you can imagine that the proportioning valve will be a very tight fit and pressed against the tube. I do not think that is a good thing, wont my brake fluid boil?

About hot many inches do I need to have that tube moved inboard toward the block you think? Can ceramic headers be heated up and "bent"?

 

Flowtechs are known to rust very quickly. My ceramic Flowtech headers had pin rust holes within a year and peeling after that. You will crack and ruin the header coating bending them, relocate the proportioning valve, supposedly required on all A bodies anyways.

 

This guy is right you need to move on a bodies the proportioning valve.I relocated mine on top of the frame. I had hookers. I now have ARH i still would have had to relocate.So there you have it.

 

I've never been able to install any brand of headers on an Olds A-body without moving the brake dist block or combo valve. I'm guessing this is due to the driver-side starter, which forces the header tubes outboard.

 

Who makes a useable budget header for a 70-72 A-body and are their any issues clearing the A/C box?

 

Put flowtech's on a 72 Cutlass vert. Swapped the 350 with a 455n using 350 frame pads and 350 mounts. Drivers header had to be beat on pretty badly on a couple of tubes as they were hitting the frame. Would not recommend. Maybe the problem was the 350 pads and mounts...

 

I bought a stainless set off of eBay for $193.00. they fit well, I had to move my proportioning valve. I didn't need to pull out the hammer. one primary is about 5/16" off my starter though. if you want more details on them,let me know.

 

might as well post the details on them LOL

 

I did a review on um a few years back installing in a 66 bb car and they fit awesome. I was expecting a night are but Steve m and I banged um out quick and had an early lunch!

 

Just curious how does the stainless look, rusted?

 

sorry, I forgot that I posted. they are a 400 grade stainless, no rust. or at least they shouldn't. flanges are either 3/8 or 1/2". they are a niche header for the money. you can throw away the header studs that come with them. ...not the right size. I will find the seller name. they are pretty