I need to remove the driver's side exhaust manifold on my 69 442. Still trying to get to the point where I can get it safetied.


I think there is an exhaust leak at the heat riser valve so I'm attempting to remove the manifold. I have it un-bolted but can't seem to finagle it out from above or below. Is there an easier way other than un-bolting and lifting the engine? Also, is it practical to remove the valve completely and weld plug the shaft holes in the manifold?


Thanks,
Randy

 

Usually you can remove the two fasteners holding the steering shaft to the rag joint and move the shaft out of the way, providing more room. You can plug the holes for the heat riser shaft with appropriate-sized metal plugs.

 

Thanks Joe, I've never un-bolted the rag joint before so I
didn't think of that option.


Randy

 

I have also taken the motor mount center bolt out and raised the engine about 3 inches and been able to get it out. It is tight for sure.

 

Sounds like a good time to replace the rag joint.

 

With all the Christmas rush, I'm just getting to this now. My manual does not elaborate how to separate the rag joint from the steering shaft or box. I don't want to ruin anything at this point. Can somehow detail which bolts should be unbolted for me? The bolts that run parallel through the joint or the one perpendicular to the column that seems to hold the whole joint on the shaft. Then once the joint is free, does it slide up to allow the steering shaft to be lifted out of the way? Thanks.

 

Randy undo the drivers side motor mount then lift the engine a couple of inches and you should have clearance. This is what I have done in the past.

 

Thanks Dave, I guess I'll have to dig out the old engine hoist. I've been jacking the car up and down to work from top and bottom since I'm so skinny as you know.

 

Once again, it pays to read the CSM first. There are many ways to remove the LH exhaust manifold. For big block cars, the CSM actually says to drop the starter and pull the manifold out the bottom. As I said, I've removed the steering shaft and pulled it out the top. This figure from the CSM shows you the fasteners to remove.



Once the nuts and washers are off, slide the shaft back towards the firewall. It will retract slightly into the upper knuckle joint at the base of the column, which provides enough room to get the flange off the pins on the rag joint. At that point it will swing out of the way. Note that the fasteners are different sizes so the flange only goes on one way.

If you have your heart set on lifting the engine, you don't need a hoist. Simply use a floor jack with a block of wood under the oil pan after pulling the LH motor mount bolt. Personally, I find the steering shaft much easier.

 

Thanks Joe, I looked pretty hard for that diagram and couldn't find it in my 196 CSM (CD). You answered exactly what I was questioning. I couldn't tell if the shaft slide back enough to clear the pins.

 

Well I finally got the manifold out. I removed the steering shaft, transmission cover, starter plus jacked the motor up as much as I could w/o removing the engine mount bolt which I had trouble accessing. Whew! Turns out the leak was not caused by the heat riser valve which was toast so I cut the shaft out anyway. It looks like the manifold just needed tightening. I'm also wondering if there should be a donut between the exhaust manifold outlet and the exhaust pipe connector? According to COM FAQ QUOTE: "On the subject of 350 exhaust manifolds, there are some slight differences. The 350 diesel manifolds on the trucks came with no block off plate on the passenger side. They use a different sealing system than the regular gas manifolds found on the cars. The 350 diesel cars used the same manifolds as the gas engines with the block off plate. There was also a change in the mid 70's with the different sealing system requiring an exhaust doughnut to be installed to make the sealing flange. The earlier ones had this cast into them. W-31's used STANDARD 350 exhaust manifolds with the block off plate. " and my CSM I don't believe there is one. Can anyone confirm no donut is used on the W/Z manifolds? If required where can a fella acquire one other than a muffler shop?


Thanks,
Randy

 

Simply looking at the flange on the manifold, you can see that there's already a metal flare. There's no way to incorporate a donut if you wanted to. The donut requires a flat flange with a counterbore for the donut's locating ring to fit into. Olds did not use donuts on the W/Z manifolds.

 

Thanks Joe, just wanted to be certain.n