hooking up tach meter for rpm adjustments
#1
hooking up tach meter for rpm adjustments
Is there some wierd way i need to hook up my meter i cannot get a reading for rpm with green hooked to neg terminal of coil and black to ground?
#2
Forget it,the manual for the dwell tach volt meter was wrong for my car anyway .The green goes to the primary wire and black to ground.My timing is set but i still get a shake ,not as bad as before when it was 10 degreese off but it starts around 12-1500 rpm.I may have been wrong to set the plug gap at .035-.037 like pertronics says you can do after adding the flamethrower coil and ignitor,what do you think ?It does sound like spark knock the engine was just rebuilt and has about 5 minutes run time on it.
#3
I would think 35-37 gap would be just a little tight but doubtful that would be the cause of your ping- knock. I only have one distributor with a Pertronics in it ,I never re gaped the plugs or used their flamethrower coil,9 1/2 to 1 compression no knock-ping. I might have just gotten lucky.....Tedd
#4
might be the vacume advance isnt hooked up,do you still use yours with the pertronics ?I was told by the shop that did the distributor work i didnt need it,of course they went out of bussiness like 7 yrs ago and i had to wait three months to get my heads intake and distributor back from their lawyers.
#5
This Pertronics is in a SBC in a LandCruser and yes I believe the vacuum is as stock. I did bypass the resistor and gave it a full 12 volts. Is this the three duce engine shown on your avatar? I wonder if your cam or carb is wrong at that RPM for all that carburation, could be having a hard time ingesting too much fuel. Just a thought....Tedd
#6
yes its the three deuce in the pic ,i dont think ive even begun to open the secondaries though may be thats the problem too not enough juice.I can only play with it a little as it freakin cold out side and it gets pretty co'd in the garage after a few minutes of running.I am going to try and take vacume from the rear carb later today and see what happensright now i am trying to change a ashtry bulb what a pia that seems to be almost like they are riveted in there.Thanks for the reply and i was wondering if there would be problems if i get rid of the resistor .Also i had a condenser mounted on the coil bracket before i hope i dont need that there.
#7
yes its the three deuce in the pic ,i dont think ive even begun to open the secondaries though may be thats the problem too not enough juice.I can only play with it a little as it freakin cold out side and it gets pretty co'd in the garage after a few minutes of running.I am going to try and take vacume from the rear carb later today and see what happensright now i am trying to change a ashtry bulb what a pia that seems to be almost like they are riveted in there.Thanks for the reply and i was wondering if there would be problems if i get rid of the resistor .Also i had a condenser mounted on the coil bracket before i hope i dont need that there.
#8
The center carb is the primary it will run on that but starts to shake at 1500-2000 rpm.There should be a vacume line on the primary but there isnt anyplace to put one .Seeing as the secondary carbs dont have vacume untill thierb throttles start to open i couldne take vacume from there either .I am thinking i am going to have to disassemble the original 2 bbl carb and use the body from it and the horn (top) of the newer carb and base from the newer carb that way i will have a vacume line from the primary the horn has the side fuel line whitch i need so hopefully i can do that but of course i have to rebuild the original 2bbl body first so i am waiting for a kit.Otherwise i will be searching for a new carb.
#9
vacuum
The center carb is the primary it will run on that but starts to shake at 1500-2000 rpm.There should be a vacume line on the primary but there isnt anyplace to put one .Seeing as the secondary carbs dont have vacume untill thierb throttles start to open i couldne take vacume from there either .I am thinking i am going to have to disassemble the original 2 bbl carb and use the body from it and the horn (top) of the newer carb and base from the newer carb that way i will have a vacume line from the primary the horn has the side fuel line whitch i need so hopefully i can do that but of course i have to rebuild the original 2bbl body first so i am waiting for a kit.Otherwise i will be searching for a new carb.
#10
well i think i am going to send the carbs down to delbert allen at tri power carburation in missori,i just am getting too ticked to fiddle with them anymore.I know they will be perfect when i get them back and i can spend my time wetsanding primer while they are out.My plan was to use the three days of christmas or new years to flatbed the car to the shop i work at and lay down some paint on her but the tuneing has taken up a lot of time i didnt expect so ive not even started yet.Hopefully my mind will be clear once they are shipped and i can spend some quality time with a bucket of hot lightly soapy water and some sandpaper.Also after doing bodywork all day its hard to come home and do more of the same.After 37 yrs i think this will be my last personal vehicle i do unless i build a total or something like that.I have done a 78 mg midget,87 944 turbo,73 mercury capri imported from germany,79 monza v6 with 10 inch clutch and hurst 4 speed transmission ,78 caprice classic.Those were complete end to end rebuilds.the monza would lift the front tires about 5 " and beat most stock vette's and mustang 5.0 fun car.944 was faster though.I am going to do the pertronics tests to see if i am keeping a solid 12v at higher rpm though before tearing the carbs off.DElbert did mention the distributor vac same as you did also.Thanks for the help.Glen
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Big Mikey
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June 9th, 2013 07:50 AM