Inline

Yup, search on google provides millions of answers.

But im asking your opinions, who has done it. If someone have something to say. This winter im rebuilding my rear ( to add posi and change gears) and rebuilding my leaking TH350, incoming engine in mind. SBO it is. Ive been lusting for manual trans for long, but i think im pretty confident now that maybe its wiser to keep it automatic. Its bad enough to drive already without manual Well thats not the only reason, but lets go on.
When i did some calculations, TH350 provides just about perfect gear separation between 2 and 3. Car will be street driven, and when im building it to our local speedlimits, most usual ones where i spend 90% of time driving my car, are 50mph and 75mph. And 50/50 between those two ones. So 50% difference at speed, and also ~50% difference at 2 and 3 gear ratios ( 1.52 & 1.00). This one makes building the engine alot easier, since no matter which limit im driving, i have the engine running same RPM's. Always on the range.

And about the difficulty level, i have a good book, internet is full of pictures, i have all the tools to complete it, and at last that dont look any harder than rebuilding hydraulic units for ABS's, which i did years ago, and noone came ever back. Did their cars get totaled is another question... Jokes aside.

Any particular rebuild kit i should avoid/ i especially should choose?
Ive been eyeing Transtar deluxe kit, what it contains can be seen from this link:

https://www.transtar1.com/products/rebuild-kits

Then buy separately shaved-down direct-clutch piston and hardened intermediate sprag.
Also in mind is adding B&M Transpak #30228 kit at the same time. Any bad thoughts about that particular product? I especially want my trans to keep the gear i manually choose. Link again:

http://www.bmracing.com/products/302...68-to-1981-gm/

Also adding external trans cooler. Already have CNC'd trans oilpan with drain-plug and bigger displacement on the th350.
Also adding dual-hump crossmember with same trouble, which i some time ago acquired. Now i have the stock crossmember, and previous owner who build dual-exhaust for my car, just decided to run another pipe under the crossmember. It looks horrible from side + is alot closer to the ground than anything else.

And at last, since im rebuilding my trans, i dont want to risk it By using old convertor. Nor im going to try to flush it clean with oil.
Only thing id like to know there, is there any brand to avoid? Otherwise im going to buy cheapest i find until the other motor is done, and then get a tailored one. 76 Cut is heavy b***h. And no, i keep on my SBO over BBO.

coppercutlass

Go with the B&M kit. The big kit with the shift kit and clutches etc etc. I did my first trans with this kit and it worked great and still does. many many miles and 45 1/4 mile runs. Im building my 3rd th350 with all the big upgrades like the drum eith the 36 element roller and the 700r4 center support. The second one went to a friends car so my first rebuild is still in action.

I also highly suggest the ron sessions book on the th350.

You can have your stock pistons machined down. I did mine on my friends lathe. As for cheap fluid i buu atf type f from farm and fleet for 50 bucks per 5 gal bucket.

Inline

Yes i know they can be machined down, thats the only tool i dont have at hand or at friends, so for me its easier to buy one.

We dont have Farm & Fleet here at Finland Anyways ive never cheaped out on lubricants, and im not going to cheap out now either. Not saying they aint good, but why take the risk for so little savings, are my thoughts about it.

Thanks for commenting.

coppercutlass

Not an issue . The pistons can be bought pretty cheap. As for the fluids it's personal preference. I know guys running straight hydraulic fluid for trans fluid. I have been running the cheap type f with no issues .

65vistacruiser

Inline, just my 2 cents, the Transtar kit is top of the line OEM stuff. I use their parts every day and they're fine for most applications.
Not sure how much power your expecting, but if you're making 400 HP or more you might be better off with some hi-performance clutch frictions and steels.

Since that B&M shift kit can block off the accumulator passages, I'd suggest keeping the cushion (wave) plates in each clutch pack. Your trans will live longer if it's not banging too hard on the shifts.

droldsmorland

Do yourself a favor and get the Trans Go kit with the Trans Go patented separator/transfer plate. I use Trans Go for both a TH400 and TH350, but on the TH350's when I do a complete rebuild I do not use any packaged kit, but in your case I would as this isnt a race car. I internally dual feed the direct drum, use a heavier pressure relief spring, and drill the feed holes. I do NOT leave out any springs...I also use heavier direct clutch return springs and a Heavy Duty planetary (strongly suggested)... All this adds to killer shifts WITH longevity. If you want a soft cushy shifting trans these mods are not what you want. If you want a tight shifthing trans that will get rubber on 1-2 than go with these suggestions. Back off a little on the pressures to soften it up. But its my experience once you drive a nice tight auto you'll wonder why they ever made them shift like a hammer under water. Quick n firm =longevity...less friction. Dont just throw a shift kit at it with out doing some upgrades(mentioned above).

TCIs Breakaway 25-2600 TCI Stall converter (with a 3 series carrier) works well with TCI clear synthetic fluid. The next step down (Saturday night special) is nice for a daily driver too. Get an adjustable modulator too. Do some reading on the Trans Go kits and internal parts verses others. Mainly how they do high gear and all other oiling. Yes get the better frictions n steels. Do the semi manual valve body. Do you have a pump puller and several large snap ring pliers? The videos are great, available most anywhere.

coppercutlass

I did the b&m kit for ease of my first rebuilt but my current th350 build i selected the parts like red alto clutches , kolene steels , the drum with the 36 element roller , 700r4 center support ., Trans go shift kit 1-2 kit , Deep cast aluminum pan .

Droldsmorland who makes the planetary you use ????

My current th350 which i used the whole b&m rebuild kit with just a hardened race ,has held up pretty good with a lot of abuse same goes for the generic ebay 3000 stall converter.

gs72

Check these guys out. I have bought several kits from them and have been very satisfied.
Http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/350-350C.html

oddball

+1 on TransGo shift kit and adjustable modulator. I loved the results.

I used a TCI Saturday Night Special in a '72 with 2.73 rear and a mild build 350. Worked really well for me.

I did a TH350 rebuild in the garage, once, and won't do it again. Highlights:

1) Get a good mount to hold the case. I thought I could hack something together, didn't work out well.

2) Using C-clamps to compress the spring packs can distort the spring holders, leading to failure. Need either a proper compressor or a more creative setup than just clamps.

3) Pump clearances destroyed mine. I'm not sure how to measure that, or correct it, without more specialized equipment.

4) IIRC, there's some endplay clearances that need selective washers to set. That can be difficult to verify and find the right washers.

In the end it's not overly difficult, and I do tend to try everything once. If nothing else, I now know the value of a quality rebuilder.

Inline

Tips taken. As ive understand Transtar and Transgo are same firm?
Ill take TransGo shiftkit then instead of B&M.

Humans have build them, so humans can fix them. And if it fails once, its not my daily driver. Washers are available on many places.

droldsmorland

Trans-star is a transmission wholesale parts house that sells to trans shops, generally theres a branch in most major cities or on line. You'll need to set up an account with them to buy. Trans go is a kit/part manufacturer.
Copper... Hughes, Coan, TCI, ATI anything thats not off shore and comes with ATRA and or SFI certs (If needed) depending on where its going and what its going to live behind. Historically I have done a lot with TCI. If you have a real animal blown or juiced Coan or Hughes. Though I think there are only a few manufacturers of the specialized hardened parts so these guys are likely all sourcing from that pool. Havent done much in the last few years. The ones I have assembled have stayed together. The TCI currently in the 68 is 15 years old and still goin strong and I abuse it regularly...knock knock on wood.
I recommend getting in tight with a local ATRA cert trans shop. The place I got in good with 20+ years ago let me in the back and I got friendly with the techs. These guys showed me the secrets to longevity and easier methods of verifying stack up tolerances and what to not do etc...I would regularly stop in with coffee and zagnuts for the whole shop to show gratitude.

Inline

Thanks for comments.

After doing a bit of search i indeed want a TransGo reprogramming kit over B&M's Transpak.

That Transtar kit i linked contains adjustable modulator.

Still pondering about frictions and steels. Ill find varying comments about them. Hmm.. Well, need to do some more searching. I just want to do it once and do it right.

Not sure about what i end up with motor. Theres still a depate between 98oct and E85 ethanol fuel. Otherwise i would choose to use ethanol within a blink of eye since its available across our country and offers unmatched pro's, but that would prevent me traveling to foreign countries where it isnt available at all/ at very limited stations. That will dictate somewhat how i will build my motor. Mental battle, lol. That, of course, will relate to the topic in form of HP/TQ it will produce.

transman74

I worked in the transmission parts/converter industry for 30+ years.
A few things people should know: Kits are re-packs. B & M, TCI, TRANSTAR ETC. do not make the parts in their kits. They buy from companies that actually make the parts and if they are big enough buyers, can get these items packed in their own packages. This process is called "private labeling."
There are only a couple of gasket set manufacturers and two major friction plate manufacturers. Plates are typically either Borg Warner or Raybestos. Alto also make plates but at the OEM level only B.W. or Raybestos. I've seen GM packaged friction plates that say Hydramatic, but have also seen these same packages with Borg plates in them.
How you build your transmission will ultimately depend on how hard you're going to beat on it. Millions of 350 transmissions were built by GM and served their owners for many years without any major issues. However, if you're going to beat on it, then changes must be made. Transgo is the way to go on shift kits. I'd say all of the transmission shops I called on over the years used Transgo/Transco shift kits almost exclusively or to some degree the Superior Kit for the later transmissions. Most shops avoided the B&M kit.
For a stock converter, no reason not to contact the folks at Transtar, they can supply you with that, no problem. For the high stall in the future, there are lots of high stall builders, some good, some not so good. Buy from the company that builds them, as they have the knowledge to supply you with the converter that BEST suits your APPLICATION. Avoid used high stalls at all cost, as you never truly know what your getting.
Any thing else I can help you with send me a pm.

Inline

Thanks for all the help.

At the end, i end up buying from Makco ( thanks for gs72, propably wouldnt have otherwise found it- they have killer international shipping-prices compared to any other, compared to example for Summit, i save after adding taxes to difference on shipping, almost 150$, + trying to build complete kit for complete rebuild from Summit was PITA, trying to locate everything necessary).

Just want to ask before hitting order, do i have everything which give good change to perform a good "street build"?

- Normal complete rebuild kit with bushes, washers, adj. modulator etc etc:
http://www.makcotransmissionparts.com/44006A-BOX-1.html

In addition to that kit, since after huge searching all over, i think i will do great without Kolene's and Alto red-clutches:

- Heavy-Duty band
- Hardened intermediate outer sprag
- Additional friction and steel-plate
- TransGo 1-2 reprogramming kit

Then sourcing from somewhere machined direct-clutch piston, and in addition to my rear-end work, correct speedo-gears.

In my mind, im good to go, just want to be sure before hitting "order".

E: I understand there are alot of differing options how to build it ( just first page on google search, there are like 20 different ways), i more like to know am i missing anything vital from this.

jpc647

subscribing. There's a lot of good recommendations in this thread.

Inline

Talked with the shop, and made my order.

So, everything mentioned above + 3 additional sun-gear bushings, few mentions where people were suggesting to order few extra of them, and with a price of 1,30$ea, figured i could aswell order 3 of them even they wouldnt be no use at the end.

Also ordered elsewhere as extra to build up my literature about TH350, that Ron Session's written book as suggested.

Only things in the air anymore is that direct clutch piston, speedo gears and torque converter. But its like 5 months until we have driving-weathers here again, so im not in a hurry.