Jegs 10" Converter

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Old August 30th, 2016, 03:10 PM
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Jegs 10" Converter

Will this "dual bolt pattern" converter fit my 1967 Olds 330 flexplate?

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...Ntt=JEGS+60401

I'm asking because it doesn't have the BOP welded nuts on the converter, it uses a chevy-style bolt and nut. The bolt and nut shouldn't be a problem, especially if I used a locking nut, but I hear there's a weight on the flexplate that may interfere with a chevy-type converter?

If you've used this converter, I'd love to hear any stories about how it bolted to the flexplate, did it require some washers to space it away from the plate (the weight?), etc...

Thanks in advance... Paul
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Old August 30th, 2016, 05:38 PM
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From what I have read, the flange/bolt hole needs to be spaced away from the flex plate to be the same distance as the BOP style that has the threaded lugs. If you don't space it away, then you could have interference issues with the flex plate weight. Again, this is from reading posts on the forum and I have no first hand experience.
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Old August 30th, 2016, 06:56 PM
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I would reccomend these guys highly. I have been thrashing this unit for the last 2 years No issues. I did pay a local shop to inspect it and they felt it was a quality unit. fits on my olds with no issues. they have many stalls and can build to your needs

http://www.ebay.com/itm/TH350-TH400-...BWJ6wH&vxp=mtr

Just look at their reviews.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 11:48 AM
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Get the correct converter for your Olds. Using a Chev style mount converter, may or may not work/fit properly. You really don't want to put spacers between your converter and flexplate, not when you can get the converter you actually need.
If you're looking for a high stall converter, contact the company that actually builds converters, not just a reseller. There are many good high stall converter builders you can contact via their website. Many even have a spec sheet for you to fill out so they can advise you as to what is THE CORRECT CONVERTER IS FOR YOUR APPLICATION. A word of advise, don't let price be your only guide to buying your converter.
I worked in the converter industry for many years and what I found was price typically represented quality. Saw some awfully made stuff over the years, but they were CHEAP.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 12:33 PM
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Fwiw my cheap converter or so most would call it has worked great. I did pay to have a local custom converter shop inspect it for 100 bucks . They cut it and gave it the go ahead and said it's a fairly good unit. Price will reflect quality I will not disagree but there are some good lower priced units that are not bad . Mine has held up for the last 2 years no issues at all . Around mid 12's at the track and driven alot on the street.
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Old September 2nd, 2016, 01:04 PM
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Originally Posted by coppercutlass
Fwiw my cheap converter or so most would call it has worked great. I did pay to have a local custom converter shop inspect it for 100 bucks . They cut it and gave it the go ahead and said it's a fairly good unit. Price will reflect quality I will not disagree but there are some good lower priced units that are not bad . Mine has held up for the last 2 years no issues at all . Around mid 12's at the track and driven alot on the street.
I'm only saying what I saw, and I don't know what is in yours.
Your typical, what I'd call a high end unit, has 2 or 3 bearings inside, will have a heavy duty sprag, furnace brazed in all areas, tig welding on the vane edges of the pump and turbine, custom mounting(HD) cover, etc. etc. Lower end units sometimes did some of the above, but not much.
Just my obsevations.
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