Slim Jim Throttle Valve link travel spec needed
#1
Slim Jim Throttle Valve link travel spec needed
I'm working on a 1961 Starfire with a 394 equiped with an Edelbrock 4 bbl carb, and Slim Jim trans.
The Edelbrock carb doesn't actuate the Roto-Hydramatic transmission TV linkage correctly, and the original carb is not with the vehicle.
If someone with a '61-'64 full size could get a measurement for me, of the full travel distance of the TV link from idle to wide open, at the carb lever, I think I can arrange things in a way to get this transmission shifting properly again. I am interested in the outer horizontal rod which snaps onto the ball stud of the carb lever, and operates the trans.
There are some great pics here in this thread,
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html
So we can see what the set up should look like, but to set this up I still need to know how far the carb pushes the TV rod from idle to wide open.
Thanks in advance for your time in helping me figure this out!
The Edelbrock carb doesn't actuate the Roto-Hydramatic transmission TV linkage correctly, and the original carb is not with the vehicle.
If someone with a '61-'64 full size could get a measurement for me, of the full travel distance of the TV link from idle to wide open, at the carb lever, I think I can arrange things in a way to get this transmission shifting properly again. I am interested in the outer horizontal rod which snaps onto the ball stud of the carb lever, and operates the trans.
There are some great pics here in this thread,
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...-question.html
So we can see what the set up should look like, but to set this up I still need to know how far the carb pushes the TV rod from idle to wide open.
Thanks in advance for your time in helping me figure this out!
#2
Well I figured out what the travel needs to be to properly actuate the Slim Jim TV lever. I modified the carb, set up the linkage and the trans still had problems while shifting. I removed the trans and examined it front to back inspecting every part and found several problems. After overhauling the trans with many new parts, all of which my shop had in inventory, it is now back in the vehicle and working just like I knew it could.
Thanks for reading my post!
Thanks for reading my post!
#3
You probably make a good living just repairing Slim Jim transmissions if you have figured out their quirks. Not many shops around that will even look at a Slim Jim anymore. Glad yours is doing well, mine never had a good shift from day one after the rebuild .... Tedd
#4
Thank you Tedd.
I've never been shy about vintage transmissions, cautious yes. I'm fortunate to work in a shop in South Eastern Wisconsin that is well stocked with NOS and used vintage trans parts and is interested in taking care of classic, as well as high performance car and truck customers. And being the "senior" re-builder I'm allowed to do the majority of that work.
Some things you just can't learn from a book which is why I hoped someone would help me out with an actual measurement. You see I didn't have an original carb to look at, and this carb was wide open when the pedal was only half way to the floor, and the TV was only stroking about half way as well.
I've never been shy about vintage transmissions, cautious yes. I'm fortunate to work in a shop in South Eastern Wisconsin that is well stocked with NOS and used vintage trans parts and is interested in taking care of classic, as well as high performance car and truck customers. And being the "senior" re-builder I'm allowed to do the majority of that work.
Some things you just can't learn from a book which is why I hoped someone would help me out with an actual measurement. You see I didn't have an original carb to look at, and this carb was wide open when the pedal was only half way to the floor, and the TV was only stroking about half way as well.
#5
Here is a link from the AACA forum that maybe of help..... Tedd......http://forums.aaca.org/topic/54478-s...justment-help/
#6
Good thing I stumbled onto this thread, I am having a problem with the TV rod on my 63, 98 right now. I replaced the transmission a couple of years ago with a rebuilt and last fall it started going all funky so I'm readjusting the rod.
I might be calling you for some help.
Steve
I might be calling you for some help.
Steve
#7
Bottom line, in the manuals I have, after setting the linkage with all the proper tools and procedures it says..."if needed, make slight adjustments for best shift feel".
Keeping that in mind, the trans first requires that the carb lever be able to stroke the TV linkage exactly the right distance to move the TV lever on the trans from a zero position at curb idle, to full TV position at WOT. There is a stop on the valve body for minimum TV (idle), and the linkage should rest there with the throttle at idle. Remember to hold your choke open and make sure you're not on the fast idle cam when checking the idle position.
With the carb wide open the TV lever should be pushing the valve (Actually pulling forward) all the way 'til you feel it stop against the valve body. Or close to it. Remember, you may make slight adjustments for best feel.
The TV lever's relationship to the carb is critical. The distance the accelerator pedal swings the carb linkage from idle to wide open, must match the distance it takes to move the TV lever from zero to full TV. Simple as that. The book won't get you there if the travel at your carb is wrong like mine was. Geometry will, or trial and error.
Keeping that in mind, the trans first requires that the carb lever be able to stroke the TV linkage exactly the right distance to move the TV lever on the trans from a zero position at curb idle, to full TV position at WOT. There is a stop on the valve body for minimum TV (idle), and the linkage should rest there with the throttle at idle. Remember to hold your choke open and make sure you're not on the fast idle cam when checking the idle position.
With the carb wide open the TV lever should be pushing the valve (Actually pulling forward) all the way 'til you feel it stop against the valve body. Or close to it. Remember, you may make slight adjustments for best feel.
The TV lever's relationship to the carb is critical. The distance the accelerator pedal swings the carb linkage from idle to wide open, must match the distance it takes to move the TV lever from zero to full TV. Simple as that. The book won't get you there if the travel at your carb is wrong like mine was. Geometry will, or trial and error.
Last edited by 65vistacruiser; June 30th, 2016 at 08:33 PM.
#9
Steve, a couple final notes come to mind. Common sense really, but worth mentioning just the same.
Before attempting to set up the TV linkage, disconnect it, and make sure your accelerator pedal will fully open the carb without bottoming on the carpet or binding the linkage. If you see a problem, make these corrections first.
And finally, when setting the TV for idle position, don't try to take out all the play, leave enough slack in the linkage to ensure the throttle plates will fully close. There should be no "tension" on the linkage when at idle.
Before attempting to set up the TV linkage, disconnect it, and make sure your accelerator pedal will fully open the carb without bottoming on the carpet or binding the linkage. If you see a problem, make these corrections first.
And finally, when setting the TV for idle position, don't try to take out all the play, leave enough slack in the linkage to ensure the throttle plates will fully close. There should be no "tension" on the linkage when at idle.
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