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Took a few pics of my 303 today showing the general mess it's in before I get stuck into draining oil, changing gaskets and filters.
One thing that has me a little concerned is the rusty colored oily crud I saw in the oil filler tube when I took the cap off...I hope this isn't a sign of something more major.
Does the oil on the dipstick look milky at all? If not it's probably just condescension that collected there from not getting up to operating temperature often enough....Tedd
It could be a sign that the car was not driven for very long trips. Clean it up best you can and change the oil.
This has definitely been the case Eric, she's sat for about 3 yrs not being driven, but he did turn the engine over periodically.
Originally Posted by Tedd Thompson
Does the oil on the dipstick look milky at all? If not it's probably just condescension that collected there from not getting up to operating temperature often enough....Tedd
Can you believe I haven't even thought to do that yet....cheers Tedd.
I agree with everyone else. The engine's exterior looks good, but that oil filler tube deserves some investigation. When cleaning it do your best to keep the crud from falling in the engine. Close inspection of the oil's condition is warranted. Check the breather and road draft tube for congestion. If you've got time a comprehensive compression check might also be a worthwhile thing.
Well the oil on the dipstick looks pretty good, thankfully no evidence of water mixing with the oil.
The exterior of the engine and bay is a mess though, there is thick black oil over everything, and leaf debris and mouse crap were they have been sitting at the back of the block.
I want to pressure wash everything, but i'm a little worried about water getting in the wire mesh things which I can see at the back of the engine, must be the Transmission? (see pic)
The engine may have some blow by out the breather and the draft tube. I would not worry about pressure washing. I normally do it with the engine warmed and running while staying clear of the distributor and water sensitive components.
I usually spray the engine first wt something like Simple Green first, let it set then get after it with the pressure washer. Yours looks like it will clean up easy..... Tedd
Great! yes i'll definitely spray it down first to try and dissolve or soften the worst of it,
although I need to identify what those little mesh cover holes are back there, just for peace of mind before I fill something up with water and muck I shouldn't.
Cheers guys.
And Happy Thanksgiving by the way.
Simple Green is a great product and but I think I would try some Gunk engine degreaser. I think Gunk is a little stronger and you engine looks like it needs the strongest thing you can get.
Simple Green is a great product and but I think I would try some Gunk engine degreaser. I think Gunk is a little stronger and you engine looks like it needs the strongest thing you can get.
I need to identify what those little mesh cover holes are back there, just for peace of mind before I fill something up with water and muck I shouldn't.
The little mesh cover holes on what might be considered the "bell housing" area at the back of the engine go into the area of the flywheel & torus cover. In normal operation they are able to accept small amounts of water which may splash up and get in there or drain down from the top at the "hood" (or "bonnet"). It will drain out of the bottom cover inspection plate. However there are seals, so it probably would be best not to wash large quantities of crud and cleaning chemicals through there. If I were doing a major exterior cleaning of the engine, I'd probably fabricate some plugs for the vents and then clean the vents separately after the engine cleaning was completed. They should clean up well with some mineral spirits on a brush, vacuum, or something similarly harmless. The original intent was probably to provide a bit of additional cooling for the torus.(?) Some vehicles never had them. The sad part is that of accessibility.
Last edited by Ozzie; November 26th, 2015 at 08:09 PM.
Reason: additional information
The little mesh cover holes on what might be considered the "bell housing" area at the back of the engine go into the area of the flywheel & torus cover. In normal operation they are able to accept small amounts of water which may splash up and get in there or drain down from the top at the "hood" (or "bonnet"). It will drain out of the bottom cover inspection plate. However there are seals, so it probably would be best not to wash large quantities of crud and cleaning chemicals through there. If I were doing a major exterior cleaning of the engine, I'd probably fabricate some plugs for the vents and then clean the vents separately after the engine cleaning was completed. They should clean up well with some mineral spirits on a brush, vacuum, or something similarly harmless. The original intent was probably to provide a bit of additional cooling for the torus.(?) Some vehicles never had them. The sad part is that of accessibility.
Ozzie, thats great and thank you for the info, your right, accessibility is definitely an issue back there, now I have a better idea of how I should tackle what is a simple enough job but without creating new problems.
Simple Green works good, I just cleaned my 70 Cutlass. My engine's filler tube was spotless until I had the car repainted. From just moving in and out of the shop caused condensation to form and rust at the top. When I later replaced valve cover gaskets the inside was spotless, seems to be a common spot for condensate, it is the highest point and would stay cool.
The rust in the oil fill tube is likely just from condensation. I wouldn't lose a lot of sleep over it. I've found water-based Grez-off to work amazingly well for degreasing. I get mine at NAPA.
I had not heard of Grez-Off. I am sure if Joe is using it, it is a good product. I just checked and you can get it on Amazon which could be important to somebody in the UK. They even have in by the gallon although the shipping is expensive. It gets very good reviews on Amazon. I am going to try it.
That's quite an improvement. I'm wondering if something was leaking to cause that oil coating in most areas. The good part of the oil was that it discouraged corrosion. Now you may have to get some of that Oldsmobile green engine paint (or get a good paint shop to mix it for you) so as to stop the corrosion. It's coming along nicely.
That's quite an improvement. I'm wondering if something was leaking to cause that oil coating in most areas. The good part of the oil was that it discouraged corrosion. Now you may have to get some of that Oldsmobile green engine paint (or get a good paint shop to mix it for you) so as to stop the corrosion. It's coming along nicely.
November 22nd, 2015, 09:11 AM
