MDchanic

I'd say "Don't bother," but if you must, the, yes, you need to mark them in some way to locate them.

- Eric

Professur

You can either scribe around the hinge, or drill 2 locating holes. Or you can just measure it up if you're good at that sort of thing ... I'm not. Or ... you can do it the hard way and just do a virgin alignment. Can't for the life of me think why anyone would do that unless they were bringing new metal to the show.

As for the insulation .. depending on the condition .. you can sometimes just peel off the first layer leaving the cleaner material just underneath.

rjohnson442

I don't think it's ben mentioned yet but if you are leaving the exhaust headers in the car remove the oil dipstick. You don't want to find out halfway up that the tube is between the pipes and the block. This will save you a few bucks from buying a new one. Ask me how I know

Macadoo

rjohnson, I was planning on removing the exhaust manifolds after I pull out the motor. There appears to be plenty of room.

Another question and bear with me on this one: because of my space limitations, it would be helpful if I could roll the car out of the shop about seven feet (rear wheels crossing the 2x4 pine threshold) after the trans to block bolts are removed. I have the trans strapped in place but could I strap the rear of the motor as well? Under the pan and to the frame maybe? (although the suspension looks to be in the way). Otherwise I'll have to roll it out, jack it back up with the stands on gravel rather than concrete. Doesn't seem ideal either way. I suppose I could place plywood between the stands and the gravel. Still, doesn't seem as stable. If rolling the car with the bolts out is pure stupidity, please feel free to say so!

Macadoo

This is a little embarrassing but my shop was an old pole building, tin with a poorly poured concrete floor. The "plan" was to put a few bucks in it and make it work for a couple years and then knock it down and build new. But the "reality" was that a few bucks turned into a lot of bucks and I made it a real nice art studio; insulated, drywalled, built a storage loft, painted the floor, ran electrical, etc. But it's a little small for a mechanic's shop and the floor isn't very smooth. Anyway, this may help explain my above question.

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MDchanic

I wouldn't be embarrassed - that's probably one of the nicest shops that any of the guys on here has!

As for your question, sure, no problem pulling all of the bolts and rolling it out - the engine and transmission won't separate until you get a pry bar between them and ease the engine off the locating pins.

Of course, I wouldn't worry about jacking it up on gravel, either - I do it all the time.

- Eric

rjohnson442

you can remove the bolts to everything Except the trans crossmember and push it back for the room you need. the block will hold the trans up by the guide pins. Keep a floor jack with a block of wood on it under the trans just for good measure. push a foot at a time making sure the jack stays centered under the pan. This way you wont have to strap anything. Another note check the height of the lift you'll be using, you want the chain as short as possible from the hook to the block. The first time I was two links two long on the chain and had to almost flatten the tires to clear the core support with the hoist maxed out on height. The first few pumps the block will stay put and just the car will raise unloading the suspension. Make sure you raise the jack under the trans as well to keep it seated. you don't want the block to "free" and have the trans drop 2+" back onto the jack.

Macadoo

I think I'll be okay with the trans strapped to the frame, for the rolling at least. I'll shove the jack under the trans when I'm pulling the motor out just to be safe.
The bolt holes in the back of the motor seem to be clogged or something. The bolts won't go in without a ratchet, unlike the accessory holes in the front. I'm trying to get some PB blaster in there but there's not much room. Just to make sure I have the right one, it's the hole at the bottom-back of the head on the driver's side that I'm working on. Is this correct?

Macadoo

Thanks for the kind words Eric. I'm picturing everyone here with five car garages and permanently installed lifts.

Professur

Hahahahaha. you funny guy.

MDchanic

I agree with putting something a bit more firm than a strap while actually pulling the engine.
Straps have built-in stretch, and the transmission will sink down a bit when disconnected from the engine, which may make the job a bit harder - I'd place an additional item under the pan, like a stack of wood, jackstand, or small jack while actually separating the engine, just to keep it from dropping too far and hanging up the back of the engine.

- Eric

MDchanic

To attach the chain to the back of the heads, you use the bolt holes that are the mirror image of the ons on the front.
They WILL be packed with old grease and grit.

- Eric

Macadoo

Okay, got the bolt hole cleared. I pushed a length of vacuum hose into the hole so I could get the penetrating fluid in. Worked like a charm.

Macadoo

Oh right right. It's the folks with the five-car garages that buy old cars already restored. I was passing by a fellas [huge] house a couple of years ago and he was wiping down a bad *** Challenger. After talking for a while I finally got it out of him that he didn't do ANY of the work. Meh, to each his own. I like the journey and the pride of a job well done.

I'll use my floor jack under the trans when separating. I've got the strap damn tight. I'm more worried about it snapping than stretching.

Macadoo

Hmm, no bolt hole on the rear (mirror) of the passenger side head. There's one higher up on the head but it's blocked by the trans dipstick tube.
That tube looks like it's a press fit. I was hoping for a lock nut I could loosen. Suggestions?

MDchanic

The back of the left is like the front of the right and vice-versa.

- Eric

Professur

Unbolt the trans dip and leave it behind. if you pull it, you're leaving a gaping hole for crap to drop into.

Macadoo

Can I move or bend the tube somehow? I don't see a bolt or nut. It looks like a pressed in fitting.

MDchanic

The top of the transmission dipstick tube should have a square tab on it, like a flag, with a hole in the middle for a screw to attach it to the back of the head.

- Eric

d2_willys

Another leaky area is the accumulator cover o-ring on the passenger side of the TH350 transmission. You might want to replace that too. (Easier if the transmission is out of the car)

Macadoo

Eric, no flag shaped tab, just the tube. This may raise some eyebrows; I put a pry-bar between the tube and the head and gently pushed the tube back, maybe an inch. But it was enough. I'm good to go now. Just the bell housing to block bolts and the motor mounts.

Macadoo

I'll have a look, thanks.

Macadoo

Engine mount nuts are off. No pressure on those bolts at all, they'll slide right out if everything stays aligned. Starting the bell housing to block screws...bolts...whatever. Getting closer.
Update: The dipstick tube DOES have a flange on it. It's down low and attaches to the bellhousing.

Macadoo

Update:
Getting the engine ready to pull took much longer than I had anticipated. The rear bolt holes for the hoist were clogged with crud and took a while to clean out. The right hand hole was blocked by the trans dipstick tube and it took me a while to find where it was attached (to the bell housing). The distributor came out rather easily, actually, so that was a nice break. The bell housing to block screws were a pita to get out. They were blocked by the exhaust pipe on the right, so that pipe had to go. No matter how hard I tried, I couldn't gain a purchase on the middle-right screw and ended up getting it loosened from above rather than below. The motor mount nuts came off easily with a wrench on the front and a ratchet on the back. The mounts, although 42 years old, are in surprisingly good shape and the through-bolts slide freely.
By this time I was beat. I'll pick up the hoist in the morning and yank that puppy out of there, weather permitting (50% chance of t-storms). if not tomorrow, then Sunday.

MDchanic

Oh yeah... Dipstick attaches to bellhousing bolt, not to the back of the head. Duh.
Sorry I said the wrong thing up above.

Sounds like you did a great job! No don't forget to remember the starter wires, the vacuum lines to the transmission and A/C system, the fuel lines, the engine wiring harness, and the throttle cable.

You can lift the car up surprisingly far by the throttle cable.

- Eric

tecar442

You don't need to completely remove the hinges from the car, just from the hood. Drilling the small holes on each side where the hinges attach to the hood will save you a lot of time realigning the hood on the install.

Macadoo

So Eric, you're saying I don't need the engine tilter mechanism? Just pull it out by the throttle cable, got it
I've looked like 20 times. I'm pretty sure everything is unhooked, including the ground strap, which I almost forgot.
tecar, I was just thinking I might paint the hinges. But it sounds like a pain to take them all the way off. I might just clean them and then maybe brush some enamel on them.
Hey, the flexplate....does that come off while the motor is on the hoist? Will i have a problem keeping the engine from turning?
I'm heading out now to get the hoist.

MDchanic

The flexplate screws should be no problem if you have air. If not, they're still generally alright, as you have decent leverage by gripping the outside of the flexplate.

- Eric

Macadoo

Yup, no air. But I do have a helper.
Thanks again Eric.

Macadoo

Well the sling they had at the rental business only has two chains, even though their website had a picture of a sling with four chains. Dernit! I think it'll be okay with one on the front of a head and the other on the back of the other head. I'm glad I grabbed grade 8 bolts because I just doubled the load on those two attachment points. At least the sling has a crank for balance adjustment.
Thoughts?

pogo69

Lifting it out with only 2 hold downs is riskky the engibe should be lifted at 3 spots...just be carefull the engine weight might swing greatly with only 2 chains...if you can use 3

Tony72Cutlass'S'

dude, you should post some photos

Macadoo

Real helpful Tony, thanks. Lol!
I'll try to get some video as well.

Tony72Cutlass'S'

I know, i'm a wealth of information eh

Professur

One of those tools I mentioned earlier would also do the trick in a pinch right about here.

Macadoo

Engine seems stuck to the bell housing. Guess I'll try using a prybar to separate.

Macadoo

Yeah prof, I just realized that. Thanks for rubbing it in, lol.

rjohnson442

You have the load leveler and 2 chains correct? The leveler should have a chain saddle at both ends to make your two chains into 4.

Macadoo

I looked at that rjohnson but it doesn't look like it will work. I think this is going to be okay but for right now, the block seems to be stuck to the bell housing. Any suggestions? I have a couple screwdrivers between them from underneath but I don't really want to "drive" them in. Should I just keep lifting until the engine pops off? It seems like it should come forward first, in order to clear the pins.

Macadoo

We're prying on the bell housing but it seems to need a lot of force to move them apart far enough to clear the pins. I hope I don't break something. And I hope the car doesn't get hurt either