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So another load sent to the machine shop yesterday.
And a couple more shipments coming in this week
So curiosity killed the cat they say. I was investigating under the car, and as I suspected, trans looks to be leaking. So will order a seal kit to fix that. Now the bigger issue I have and don't know what the funk to do. I ordered headers from Thorntons, wasn't sure regular ones would work. And the way is looks under the car, long headers would work but would of had to butcher. So glad ish I went with the Thornton's, they are made like w/z manifolds. Drivers fit okay, but passengers kicks to the right instead of down like the manifold. Where in the bloody blue blazes I find down pipes?
Try either 2.25" down pipes through the Parts Place or Inline Tube. Ramair Restorations and Pypes makes 2.5" down pipes. They are for early A bodies so they may need some tweaking to fit your G body. The angle is different for early pre cat manifolds and Thornton copied the early angle for their headers.
Well an intake gasket question now. Better to stay with the turkey tray gasket or go with individual gaskets? The heat risers are filled, not sure if that makes a difference.
Well an intake gasket question now. Better to stay with the turkey tray gasket or go with individual gaskets? The heat risers are filled, not sure if that makes a difference.
Thanks
Mr. Gasket #405 gaskets will work fine along with some silicone on the end rails.
The RPM will need cut if the heads were milled any amount with Ultraseal gaskets. They are a thick gasket like .060". I still have mine sitting. They would not work with my Performer on a bone stock 76 350 motor or 64cc #6 heads with the Performer or 55cc #6 heads with the head intake face cut with the RPM intake. I think my RPM intake is straight, betting my Performer is not.
Finally the shop is putting the 350 together.
Stopped in yesterday to look, crank, cam, rods and pistons are in. Heads being worked on as we speak, guides are in and hammering in seats. They going to touch up my porting job. Balanced within 1/2 gram, they figure be ready for dyno next week.
Good machine work costs money plain and simple. You normally get what you pay for.
Yes, you absolutely do. Thanks to things like the Federal Fuel Charge up here, the price of everything has gone up. Only one $500 extra expense, every month there has been at least one major extra expense. I should be send you money so I can turn my bare block and pile of parts in to something useable like our friend from Manitoba has done in this thread.
Its been a bit of an adventure with the build for Kelvin's car. The build is looking great, so am excited. Dyno late next week, excited to see what this little beast will make.
My guessing on build cost is around 10,000 plus.
About 6000 in parts, 4000 in machining and build
My guessing on build cost is around 10,000 plus.
About 6000 in parts, 4000 in machining and build
Thats about right for something at this level. The main thing I offer that’s different is even better machining because I use a BHJ Bor-Tru and in the correct way.
Keep us posted. Is anybody guessing on power and tq numbers?
Far past the 10k$ mark already. Question lies there; when using so much money for "simple" performance build, why skimp the last few thou when youve alredy spend that much?
[QUOTE=Inline;1194131)
Hmm... Im voting for 330hp.[/QUOTE]
If they did their job and your port work is half decent I’ll go 415hp and 430tq corrected. Did they degree the cam to the specs on the cam card?
My project build with the new Mahle piston, a TQ40 cam and cleaned up heads made 417/430 corrected. You have a roller with more lift and what should be better heads. But we’ll see.
Last edited by cutlassefi; August 30th, 2019 at 10:29 AM.
Thats about right for something at this level. The main thing I offer that’s different is even better machining because I use a BHJ Bor-Tru and in the correct way.
Keep us posted. Is anybody guessing on power and tq numbers?
The shop that's building it dont really know. They build lots of Dodge engines, not very many Olds.
But they do have an Olds guy working in the shop.
Told me that I know the trick on Olds heads. Lol
Far past the 10k$ mark already. Question lies there; when using so much money for "simple" performance build, why skimp the last few thou when youve alredy spend that much?
Hmm... Im voting for 330hp.
Yep, spend that much in a build do it right.
Mains aligned honed, rods same. New balancer and flywheel. Crank was only taken down 10 on mains and journals. Block was decked, heads the same.
And balanced to within 1/2 gram. So should be solid
If they did their job and your port work is half decent I’ll go 415hp and 430tq corrected. Did they degree the cam to the specs on the cam card?
My project build with the new Mahle piston, a TQ40 cam and cleaned up heads made 417/430 corrected. You have a roller with more lift and what should be better heads. We’ll see.
I am thinking 350 but will see next week.
They were going to fine tune my porting job, and were talking about cutting the bosses.
I am thinking 350 but will see next week.
They were going to fine tune my porting job, and were talking about cutting the bosses.
And cam has been degreed
What bosses? And I’m sorry to say but if it does not make upwards of 400 corrected then they goofed somewhere.
And did they tell you they put it in straight up or per the Cam card?
Curious, if you ended up milling the exhaust down or welding the divider? "I will mill the exhaust down .125 or so to get the center divider flush."
Also run a copper line for the oil sensor, those plastic lines are horrible. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3224
Curious, if you ended up milling the exhaust down or welding the divider? "I will mill the exhaust down .125 or so to get the center divider flush."
Also run a copper line for the oil sensor, those plastic lines are horrible. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/atm-3224
Yes I welded the divider and they slightly milled the exhaust. If you kill them too much, the manifolds or headers could touch the block. As of right now, the engine is in the shop waiting for dyno, they have the oil sensor set up for it
The dyno is in. Pulled nice she did.
Wish I was there for the pull tho, would of had them pull a bit more.
Have a short video of it idling on the dyno but cant load it.
Thanks Mark for your expertise!!!!!!
The dyno is in. Pulled nice she did.
Wish I was there for the pull tho, would of had them pull a bit more.
Have a short video of it idling on the dyno but cant load it.
Thanks Mark for your expertise!!!!!!
They didn't even take it to 5000?!?! Did they say why?
They didn't even take it to 5000?!?! Did they say why?
They took her to 5200, around 5000 she held there. They didn't want to pull anymore cause I not racing her. Wished I was there, would of told them to pull to 6000 and she what she would do.
They took her to 5200, around 5000 she held there. They didn't want to pull anymore cause I not racing her. Wished I was there, would of told them to pull to 6000 and she what she would do.
Kyle, again thank you for the opportunity, glad your build went well.
However for all, hopefully this is a lesson to be learned. I know it’s not always possible to make a Dyno day, but whenever possible try to be there, it’s your money. At the very least ask for a video and/or sheets from multiple pulls. That’s best for all involved.
You should be able to have significant input over the parameters, fuel being used etc., and anything else you may want to input into the process.
Wow, very nice numbers, that should haul ***. Glad I was 100hp short on my guess. Anyone who says #8 heads are complete junk is wrong, they just need some grind time. What was the actual compression ratio?
Wow, very nice numbers, that should haul ***. Glad I was 100hp short on my guess. Anyone who says #8 heads are complete junk is wrong, they just need some grind time. What was the actual compression ratio?
Yes I thought around the 350 mark. Way above than what I thought. Yes was sceptical on using the #8's, but now will never think twice on using them. Must have to do with the bowl shape, different from the others.
Only down fall I could see is the chamber cc is more, but shave them and that solves the issue.
May take a bit more work to port them, but in the end worth it.
Now if I went with pistons that Mark sells and brought it 10:1, would of hit 500 I think. Glad I kept it down. She is just under 9.5:1.
Will see what she will do. Cause what she is making, think I may get 200R4 built for it, and stick 3.42 gears in.
Yes I thought around the 350 mark. Way above than what I thought. Yes was sceptical on using the #8's, but now will never think twice on using them. Must have to do with the bowl shape, different from the others.
Only down fall I could see is the chamber cc is more, but shave them and that solves the issue.
May take a bit more work to port them, but in the end worth it.
Now if I went with pistons that Mark sells and brought it 10:1, would of hit 500 I think. Glad I kept it down. She is just under 9.5:1.
Will see what she will do. Cause what she is making, think I may get 200R4 built for it, and stick 3.42 gears in.
Find yourself an 8.5 axle for it or build a 9". That 7.5, even with better gearing, won't last long with that much power.
Ah yes I was thinking that would be an issue.
Is it possible to find an 8.5 that would bolt right in?
Yes, the 84 Hurst/Olds, 85 to 87 442 will have 3.73 gears and 84 to 87 Buick Grand National and Regal T-Type will have 3.42 gears, both 8.5" with 28 spline axles. Yeah, I broke a no slip with slicks and exploded spider gears just goofing around with a 8 to 1 Olds 403 in the stock 7.5 rear. A Trutrac and 28 spline axles might hold for bit but aren't far from the cost of a used G body 8.5".
Yes, the 84 Hurst/Olds, 85 to 87 442 will have 3.73 gears and 84 to 87 Buick Grand National and Regal T-Type will have 3.42 gears, both 8.5" with 28 spline axles. Yeah, I broke a no slip with slicks and exploded spider gears just goofing around with a 8 to 1 Olds 403 in the stock 7.5 rear. A Trutrac and 28 spline axles might hold for bit but aren't far from the cost of a used G body 8.5".
Okay, well now I will search for one.
There is a scrap yard here in Brandon, 40 acres so I would think they should have something I think.
June 1st, 2019, 10:06 PM
