I am going to get rid of the horn relay in my car and use a terminal block. My 70 cutlass is pretty much a race car and for some reason my horn relay gets hot so I am replacing it. I have bought this one from Jegs.

http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS+Performan...10521/10002/-1

Do I need to run a ground wire from the terminal block or do I just have it wired like it was on the horn relay?

 

you don't want a ground wire going to the + distribution terminal. you could just unplug the relay wiring for the horn circuit. i'm sure you're aware your horn will no longer function.
that chebby truck-looking distribution block should work fine.


bill

 

So since the new terminal block has two posts does that mean one is for positive wires and the other is for negative? My car doesn't have horns on it so it does not matter if they don't work.

 

Judging by the description: "Provides 1/4" and 3/16" terminals to connect multiple wires while also maintaining independent circuits," I would guess that each of the two terminals is electrically isolated, but I would not swear to it, and would strongly recommend checking continuity before connecting different circuits to the two posts.



I would ask why you need two posts when the original horn relay did a fine job with only one post?

Actually, I would ask why, if you have no horn, you need to eliminate the horn relay at all, since, once you've disconnected the horn wires, all it is is a single insulated post, just like the fancy Jeg's terminal block that you'd have to pay $15 for, plus shipping?

- Eric

 

those posts are connected to each other! connect a positive cable and a ground to them and you will get a great fireworks-like show.

i just used the oem version of that terminal block when i re-wired a '69 firebird. look at the oval shape that connects the 2 studs. that's proof positive they are connected.


bill

 

Thanks for clarifying that, Bill! That description in the catalogue is clear as mud.

- Eric

 

yw!

myself, i would just unplug the horn relay wires from the oem relay and leave the connecting block alone.


bill

 

I used blocks similar to those from Moroso. I ran the larger post directly to the battery positive and then from the block to the starter. The smaller post can be used for smaller gauge hot wiring that is needed. Moroso's were a single post, so the wiring guy installed 2 side by side under the dash. This was a RACECAR and not a street car, so maybe everyone does things differently.

 

If it winds up being a hassle, I have the correct HORN RELAY, which the application is 1969 - 1975 Olds all (Full size and mid size), and BRAND NEW -- they are very inexpensive... I have all USA made ones for $ 24....

Call me if you need -- Craig -- 516 - 485 - 1935....New York.

 

The main reason I am replacing the horn relay is because a few minutes after hooking up the battery the horn relay heats up and gets really warm. Not sure why it does this. I have tested another good horn relay and it does the same thing.

I am also installing dual electric fans so I figured it might be better to use I terminal block because I have like five wires hooked up on the horn relay right now plus at least two more for the fans.

So if two terminal posts are connected to each I can just connect the wires that were on the horn relay but use both terminals?

 

When you have done this, did you connect the horn wires (which you are not using, since your car has no horn) to the relay?
A shorted horn button wire (which you aren't paying attention to, since you don't have a horn), would activate the relay, which, not being designed for continuous duty, might get warm after a while.

I mean, if you want a fancy Chinese terminal block, go ahead and get one, but if you've got a problem with a part of your electrical system, why not figure out what's wrong, and fix it if necessary, instead of just ripping the parts out?

- Eric

 

I did not think to unhook those wires. I will try that and see what happens.