Vaper spray guns?

[67 Cutlass]

I found this Vaper set on Craigslist. I currently have a Harbor Freight 43430 gun with a 1.4 tip which sprayed pretty good when I used Econobody primer (for enamel or laquer) from NAPA but I think I may need a bigger tip for spraying a 2K filler primer so I thought about getting this set plus I'll have a touch up gun if I do.
Oh yea, I'm now going to use urethane 2K primer, epoxy as a sealer then NASON paint for color.

Any thoughts on this set?
http://providence.craigslist.org/tls/1147441770.html

[Texascarnut]

Isn't the answer to your question rather obvious? Look at the price. No such thing as a quality paint gun for $85. I'll guarantee you won't find one of those guns in a paint and body shop. Aside from price why would you want to use a "sub brand" of paint like Nason? You'll be a lot happier in the long run to use top of the line PPG instead of their Nason sub brand. Nason isn't cheaper without good reason other than a different label.

[csstrux]

I'm having good luck so far with the Devillbiss starting line units. They are not top of the line, but easily tunable, with multiple heads for paint, and build primer. I think I paid about $130 or 140 for a 2 gun set. One standard, one touchup/ jam gun. I would recomend it to anyone looking for a good entry/mid range gun. Obviously does not have all the bells and whistles but we used SATA 90 and 95 and Devillbiss finish line in the bodyshop I worked at. And a binks 7 for self etch. Don't know anything about the vapor units.

[Texascarnut]

The below link to another forum pretty much tells the story on "Vapor."

http://www.autobodystore.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=1536

[Bluevista]

That Vaper set is 99 bucks at Harbor Freight, not much for three guns and a regulator?
I have a small compressor and I'm only spraying epoxy primer so I used an Astro Evo 4010 LVLP ($88 bucks) with the 1.8 tip and it worked fine. It does take some getting used to, you just have to move in slow motion.
There's just about no overspray using it because of the low pressure and volume so you don't use much material and there isn't any fog in the air.
Both those Devilbiss units get good reviews on the auto body forums, Iwata seems to be popular with the pro's on them.
Spraygunworld has all different makes for comparison and pretty good prices.
I think I saw the Startingline two gun set at NAPA last time I was in there?

http://www.spraygunworld.com/

[Texascarnut]

Originally Posted by Bluevista

That Vaper set is 99 bucks at Harbor Freight, not much for three guns and a regulator?
I have a small compressor and I'm only spraying epoxy primer so I used an Astro Evo 4010 LVLP ($88 bucks) with the 1.8 tip and it worked fine. It does take some getting used to, you just have to move in slow motion.
There's just about no overspray using it because of the low pressure and volume so you don't use much material and there isn't any fog in the air.
Both those Devilbiss units get good reviews on the auto body forums, Iwata seems to be popular with the pro's on them.
Spraygunworld has all different makes for comparison and pretty good prices.
I think I saw the Startingline two gun set at NAPA last time I was in there?

http://www.spraygunworld.com/

Iwata guns are indeed the best, at least for now. They are also expensive and possibly an impractical investment for the do it yourself guy. Foot for what an Iwata gun cost one can get a Macco paint job.....

[67 Cutlass]

Hmmmm... Don't get the Vaper guns!
I think I like the deal on the Devilbiss Starting or Finishing lines better. A touch up gun would be nice so I can respray the interior portions.
I just want to spray my own car and hope for decent results so I can say I did it, especially if it comes out nice.

As we all know, it's tough working with a very tight budget.

Thanks for the input.

[ent72olds]

Originally Posted by Texascarnut

Isn't the answer to your question rather obvious? Look at the price. No such thing as a quality paint gun for $85. I'll guarantee you won't find one of those guns in a paint and body shop. Aside from price why would you want to use a "sub brand" of paint like Nason? You'll be a lot happier in the long run to use top of the line PPG instead of their Nason sub brand. Nason isn't cheaper without good reason other than a different label.

I beg to differ...yes, you have somewhat of a point on the spraygun, but exactly how much PPG have you sprayed? How much Nason have you sprayed? I've sprayed probably hundreds of gallons of both(DBC,GLOBAL, FULTHANE you name it!) Nason is an excellent product and easy to use. Just because something is expensive, doesn't mean it is good! Besides, in PPG's line up of brands, Nexa is the "top of the line". Oh, Nason is owned by DuPont, not PPG....

[Texascarnut]

Originally Posted by ent72olds

I beg to differ...yes, you have somewhat of a point on the spraygun, but exactly how much PPG have you sprayed? How much Nason have you sprayed? I've sprayed probably hundreds of gallons of both(DBC,GLOBAL, FULTHANE you name it!) Nason is an excellent product and easy to use. Just because something is expensive, doesn't mean it is good! Besides, in PPG's line up of brands, Nexa is the "top of the line". Oh, Nason is owned by DuPont, not PPG....

I won't get into a I've sprayed more paint of any brand or type than you argument, would just be silly and pointless. Yup Nason is indeed a DuPont sub brand and not a PPG sub brand. Sorry for the brain fart!

Admittedly Nason is easier for a novice to handle and use than either PPG's Nexa or DuPont's Chroma System, as are a number of the other cheaper paints. Nason, like most less expensive paints, is not a paint to use where color matching is critical because it is almost always going to be a half tone off which does not make customer's happy. Another way of saying if color matching is an issue do not use it, even if trying to match what you may have painted with it six months ago.

Personally, I have a thing about painting vintage cars of any era with either single stage urethane or BC/CC paints. The luster rarely turns out period correct regardless of much one fools with adding deglossing additives. There is just something wrong with a 1950 something car that looks like it was painted with glass.

In preparing to paint two of my own cars from the late 1950s and early 1960s I will be shooting one of them with Acrylic Enamel and the other with Acrylic Lacquer, as that is what they were painted with originally. More work? Less durable paint? Yep in both cases, but I want the cars to appear as nearly as possible to their comming off the production line.