New Project 67 Trac Pac
August 21st, 2012, 04:44 AM
#403
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,206
I 'm with you guys. I'm in the last stages of my frame off on my 67 442. I tried my best to finish it before my wife passed away a few weeks ago. But it was not to be.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
She fought the good fight but cancer is a tough one to beat. So now it's a tribute car
to her. Calling it CAROL'S CUTLASS. For the 38 years of love we had for each other.
August 21st, 2012, 04:54 AM
#404
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,206
Let me ask a question first...are you going to spray any clear over the red or just go with red?
Given what you've posted, I'm going to assume you will not use any clear and will base my response on that assumption. If it were me, I would not spend the time sanding the color between coats. Yes, it smooths it a little but you can accomplish that at the end too. Additionally, red paint isn't cheap (actually no quality paint is cheap) and when you sand between coats you are just removing paint that will eventually need to be put back on to get the correct desired build up to allow for final sanding and buffing. Since you have 2 coats on there now, I would sand what you have with 800 grit or 600 would also be fine. Don't used 1000 as I feel that is too fine right now for the paint to get a good bond. With the sanding done, everything cleaned with wax and grease remover and tacked off, I would spray 4 more coats of color and spray it at the manufacturer's recommendations which I assume is 1:1. Let each coat dry to the point that the paint on any masking paper is not tacky and in today's temperatures, that may be about 15 minutes. Watch your overlap when spraying and you want to overlap each pass by 50%. Watch the speed at which you move as moving too fast will leave the paint somewhat rough and will not put down a correct thickness which will create a need for more coats. If at the end of this, you feel there is enough paint on the car and it looks pretty good, you could call the spraying complete. You could also sand the car again with 800 grit and spray down 2 more coats which could be thinned at 1.5:1 for the first and then 2:1 for the last. It will leave a smoother finish which will make final sandinging easier but you don't have to. Once you are done with the color, I would let it dry for several days. For finishing, I would sand with 1000, again with 1500 and finish with 2000. Use a rubber squeege and wipe it across the areas as you sand until the surface is smooth. Be careful around edges as it is easy to sand through them and to buff through them. I still like to use a wool pad for the cutting compound and then the foam pads for polishing. Keep the buffer speeds low (I usually buff at 1000 RPM) and take your time and work in small sections.
Painting is all about "feel" and it takes time to get that feel when you spray. So it's hard to know exactly how one person sprays without seeing them do it. Fortunately, lacquer is very forgiving and easy to fix if a problem comes up. When you spray the other parts, pay attention to the direction you spray them. On the fender, spray front to back since that is likely what you did for the door. Same with the hood. Even though you are spraying a solid color, I would still try to keep the spray pattern the same direction between matching panels to make the color uniform looking. This is more of an issue with metallic colors but it's just good practice to be consistent with your spraying.
Yes, painting is a lot of work and most of that effort is in prep. The better you do as you go along, the better the final result.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I was at the DVOC fall show last year (walking around) and I may try to go again this year. Let me know if you will be there and maybe we can bump into each other.
Brian
Given what you've posted, I'm going to assume you will not use any clear and will base my response on that assumption. If it were me, I would not spend the time sanding the color between coats. Yes, it smooths it a little but you can accomplish that at the end too. Additionally, red paint isn't cheap (actually no quality paint is cheap) and when you sand between coats you are just removing paint that will eventually need to be put back on to get the correct desired build up to allow for final sanding and buffing. Since you have 2 coats on there now, I would sand what you have with 800 grit or 600 would also be fine. Don't used 1000 as I feel that is too fine right now for the paint to get a good bond. With the sanding done, everything cleaned with wax and grease remover and tacked off, I would spray 4 more coats of color and spray it at the manufacturer's recommendations which I assume is 1:1. Let each coat dry to the point that the paint on any masking paper is not tacky and in today's temperatures, that may be about 15 minutes. Watch your overlap when spraying and you want to overlap each pass by 50%. Watch the speed at which you move as moving too fast will leave the paint somewhat rough and will not put down a correct thickness which will create a need for more coats. If at the end of this, you feel there is enough paint on the car and it looks pretty good, you could call the spraying complete. You could also sand the car again with 800 grit and spray down 2 more coats which could be thinned at 1.5:1 for the first and then 2:1 for the last. It will leave a smoother finish which will make final sandinging easier but you don't have to. Once you are done with the color, I would let it dry for several days. For finishing, I would sand with 1000, again with 1500 and finish with 2000. Use a rubber squeege and wipe it across the areas as you sand until the surface is smooth. Be careful around edges as it is easy to sand through them and to buff through them. I still like to use a wool pad for the cutting compound and then the foam pads for polishing. Keep the buffer speeds low (I usually buff at 1000 RPM) and take your time and work in small sections.
Painting is all about "feel" and it takes time to get that feel when you spray. So it's hard to know exactly how one person sprays without seeing them do it. Fortunately, lacquer is very forgiving and easy to fix if a problem comes up. When you spray the other parts, pay attention to the direction you spray them. On the fender, spray front to back since that is likely what you did for the door. Same with the hood. Even though you are spraying a solid color, I would still try to keep the spray pattern the same direction between matching panels to make the color uniform looking. This is more of an issue with metallic colors but it's just good practice to be consistent with your spraying.
Yes, painting is a lot of work and most of that effort is in prep. The better you do as you go along, the better the final result.
Let me know if you have any other questions. I was at the DVOC fall show last year (walking around) and I may try to go again this year. Let me know if you will be there and maybe we can bump into each other.
Brian
August 21st, 2012, 04:59 AM
#405
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,206
i am glad to state that the painting is done! I sanded a fender with 1000 then 1500 and buffed to see result. It looked nice but has a slight orange peel if one looked close. I resanded it and buffed again and it came up much better. The other fender i started with 800 then 1000 and then 1500 and this seems to be the trick! I wanted to do the fenders so i can get them mounted. I still need to get to the body and hood. I have found that with the wet sanding the finish is such that little buffing needs to be done to really get a nice finish.
August 22nd, 2012, 05:05 PM
#407
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Maryland
Posts: 1,665
Brian - WOW!! What great advise and info. I think I could paint a car with these instructions!! I guess thats what its all about on one of these chat-sites! Thanks again for taking your time to help my buddy Joe!! Hes got a great project going and we're all anxious to see his finished project!!
August 24th, 2012, 02:50 PM
#408
Took off from work today an got the body sanded and buffed. Looks nice. Still need to do final buff/polish. I did put on the door post moldings. They went on easier than they came off!
August 25th, 2012, 06:17 AM
#409
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,206
August 25th, 2012, 04:28 PM
#412
Thats my brother's 64, just rotting away... It was a V6 now 455 but it is sad that it just sits...
Thanks again everyone for the kind words. Now every piece that goes on really makes me feel good! More vacation time will be coming.
Thanks again everyone for the kind words. Now every piece that goes on really makes me feel good! More vacation time will be coming.
August 31st, 2012, 04:12 PM
#413
Took another vacation day today to work on the car, (I must be crazy) and thanks to a fellow Olds buddy we got the back bumper mounted. It took some time to say the least mostly because the back frame brace was bent out and would not let the bumper go in and upward. The car had a racing history and for sure it was pulled by this brace in the past (probably after a breakdown) and thats how it got bent. So after trimming and bending things we finally got it mounted and it looks good. Thanks BOB! We sorted thru some trim pieces and the ones good enough to mount were installed. The rest, I have to dig thru my stash and see what I can come up with. As a last resort I will borrow from the 442 conv till I can replace.
I got the repro OAI bezels mounted...man they just squeeze in there! I hope to continue over the weekend and get the front bumper mounted.
I got the repro OAI bezels mounted...man they just squeeze in there! I hope to continue over the weekend and get the front bumper mounted.
August 31st, 2012, 04:34 PM
#415
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: HOUSTON TX.
Posts: 116
Looks Super. You and I are about at same stage of build. Would be nice to get together. To show them off. If you are like me it's a labor love. That's why I call
mine CAROL'S CUTLASS 442. A tribute to my dearly departed wife. I feel she's with
all the time.
mine CAROL'S CUTLASS 442. A tribute to my dearly departed wife. I feel she's with
all the time.
August 31st, 2012, 04:39 PM
#416
August 31st, 2012, 04:42 PM
#417
Cool and Thanks!... Wow Texas would be a haul guess we will have to do it with pictures!
!
September 2nd, 2012, 02:57 PM
#420
Well I got the front bumper on today.... went ok and looks pretty good. The only thing not perfect is side to side alignment, one side is further over then the other by a slight amount but overall it looks good.
September 2nd, 2012, 03:02 PM
#421
[QUOTE=txtom;448073]Joe - looking good! Take more vacation time so it make the Fall DVOC Olds show/QUOTE]
Tom am trying!! It may not be totally done. Funny all the trim looked good when the body was so poor. Now I am cleaning and polishing it all and see some little dings and scrapes. For now will install and do my best with it but I need to send it away to be tweaked and polished at a later date. And I am not finding one small trim piece that I know I removed from the car!
Tom am trying!! It may not be totally done. Funny all the trim looked good when the body was so poor. Now I am cleaning and polishing it all and see some little dings and scrapes. For now will install and do my best with it but I need to send it away to be tweaked and polished at a later date. And I am not finding one small trim piece that I know I removed from the car!
Last edited by Oldsmaniac; September 2nd, 2012 at 05:32 PM.
September 7th, 2012, 04:58 PM
#422
Am putting in time on the assembly but it goes slow, its a lot easier tearing off junk parts than installing nice new ones on a fresh paint job! Back interior side panels are on. They fit well. Fuzzies are on and look good. Door and trunk rubber seals are on. A few more pieces of trim have been installed. Hope to get serious on the interior in the next few days! Still need to sand and buff hood!
September 10th, 2012, 05:57 PM
#423
Still fooling around with trim but I did get the hood buffed and bolted to the hinges. Adjustment is needed at front corner (hood will hit if closed). I need to shim fender out some on passenger side and then I think center pin on hood needs to be played with or the latch. I decided to bolt on the tires and rims. Could not get a good picture in the garage but I think they will give the look I am after!
September 11th, 2012, 04:14 PM
#425
September 16th, 2012, 04:57 PM
#426
Progress continues, was too busy to grab pictures. The hood has been installed but not without much grief and hassle!! One of the hinges looked bent but I tried it anyway. Could not get that side to allow the hood to go down enough at the rear corner. I searched and found 3 others with only one of those lookeng good. I installed that one and things are pretty good. I noticed that the OAI bezels at top are pressed downward when the hood closes. I dont know if this is normal and the passenger side is worse than the drivers but it is acceptable. The only strange thing is the front of the hood is even with the fenders as well as the back but along most of the sides the hood is slightly raised above the fenders?? I cant figure that one out. I have been picking away at the interior install. Carpet is in as well as rear side panels. The repro door panels from SMS did not have the clip recesses in the proper places so I had to spend a good amount of time with that. I installed the passenger side to find the door release mechanism has stripped splines and the handle will not grab and stay on. The other side does the same and I was not smart enough to save these parts from the 2 parts cars!!! I found some on ebay that are supposed to work for the non deluxe interior. I have been fitting rear armrests and fill panels for the seat. The shifter boot has been installed as well as some seat belts. The front glass stainless trim is on I need to do the rear yet. I was installing the rear clips and one mount broke off. I have the replacement nailhead screws but its gonna be difficult to install with the glass in place. I readjusted bumpers for a better look and tightened up the exhaust.
September 22nd, 2012, 12:20 PM
#427
Wow, its hard to believe but the "To Do" list is running short for this phase of the project. Interior needs a little work yet and the headliner needs install. Got to send picts now to NJ DMV so I can get historic plates and then road test! Cant wait. Here are some of the pictures from today.
September 22nd, 2012, 01:27 PM
#429
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Dover, Ohio
Posts: 1,206
Wow, its hard to believe but the "To Do" list is running short for this phase of the project. Interior needs a little work yet and the headliner needs install. Got to send picts now to NJ DMV so I can get historic plates and then road test! Cant wait. Here are some of the pictures from today.
September 22nd, 2012, 01:38 PM
#431
The fronts are 760x15 's they are 28 1/4 tall while the rears are 28 1/8. The car sits pretty level but higher than stock with the taller tires and I did get springs that were 1.5 inches taller than stock all the way around. I like the stance, just like a vintage stocker... I am hoping for nice weather for the DVOC fall show in Downingtown Pa. It may not be finished but pretty close but I think I will have to trailer it there. Its about 60 miles each way and it has not even been road tested yet.
September 22nd, 2012, 03:18 PM
#433
September 22nd, 2012, 04:26 PM
#435
September 22nd, 2012, 07:19 PM
#437
Thanks 67 442
Well I dont know if 3 years is fast progress or not but I am sure glad the end is nearing!. I actually feel kinda "burnt out" and now I can take a breather. It seems a day doesnt go by without me thinking about how and what and why and when on the 442. I also wish I had some history on the car. The seller told me the car was bought new in Va.and raced, then somehow went to SD and then he brought it to Mn and thats when I picked it up.
Well I dont know if 3 years is fast progress or not but I am sure glad the end is nearing!. I actually feel kinda "burnt out" and now I can take a breather. It seems a day doesnt go by without me thinking about how and what and why and when on the 442. I also wish I had some history on the car. The seller told me the car was bought new in Va.and raced, then somehow went to SD and then he brought it to Mn and thats when I picked it up.
September 23rd, 2012, 05:58 AM
#438
One part at a time
Join Date: Jun 2010
Location: Missouri
Posts: 167
Thanks 67 442
Well I dont know if 3 years is fast progress or not but I am sure glad the end is nearing!. I actually feel kinda "burnt out" and now I can take a breather. It seems a day doesnt go by without me thinking about how and what and why and when on the 442. I also wish I had some history on the car. The seller told me the car was bought new in Va.and raced, then somehow went to SD and then he brought it to Mn and thats when I picked it up.
Well I dont know if 3 years is fast progress or not but I am sure glad the end is nearing!. I actually feel kinda "burnt out" and now I can take a breather. It seems a day doesnt go by without me thinking about how and what and why and when on the 442. I also wish I had some history on the car. The seller told me the car was bought new in Va.and raced, then somehow went to SD and then he brought it to Mn and thats when I picked it up.
I feel your pain but once you get going down the road it fades in a hurry.
September 23rd, 2012, 03:17 PM
#439
I got lucky, the owners manual with the protecto plate was in the glove-box of my '67. It's still in the clear plastic envelope they delivered them in. I have the dealer badge off the trunk and I am the 4th owner.
I feel your pain but once you get going down the road it fades in a hurry.
I feel your pain but once you get going down the road it fades in a hurry.
Ok today i did some little things and mounted the OAI breather. Now I have to get my historic plates and registration so I can get the car to the shop for the headliner.
