Vista Body on Rotiseri
#1
Vista Body on Rotiseri
Hi, I have done several frame off restorations on 67-73 442's but have never had a body of a Vista Cruiser on my rotiseri. It is longer and I would like to leave all the roof glass and side glass in. The fixture is long enough but am concerned about the vista glass cracking from the stress of the body bowing a little in the middle. The car is a 70 Vista Cruiser and will have the doors,gate and interior out. Has anyone had a vista body on a rotiseri? Thanks Steve
#2
Not familiar with putting a Vista on a rotiseri but I would not take the chance of cracking the glass its to hard to come by from all the information I have seen on the VIsta forum. The glass needs to come out for the complete restor anyway.
#3
I agree with Pat. Don't leave the glass in your car. You are asking for trouble if you do.
I imagine the body will fit on a rotisserie without too much trouble. It will ultimately depend on what type of rotisserie you have. You might check the manufacturers website. They probably have specifications on their rotisserie.
I imagine the body will fit on a rotisserie without too much trouble. It will ultimately depend on what type of rotisserie you have. You might check the manufacturers website. They probably have specifications on their rotisserie.
#4
Thanks for the opinions. I am worried if I try and cut the glass out I may crack it. The windows don't leak and there is no rust around them so that is why I don't want to disturb them. The body will fit on my rotiseri just worried about the flex. Steve
#5
Steve, if you are worried about the body flexing then think what a little bit of torsion on the body will do to your glass when you put it on the rotisserie. If you are afraid of removing the glass yourself then find a local shop to do it for you. I had a local shop remove my rear window so I could repair the window channel. I had the same feelings you did. I didn't want to risk removing it myself so I took it to a pro that guaranteed his work. He even stored the window for me for a week while I did the repair. It only cost $60 for him to remove and install it. I was very impressed with his work. Check out your local yellow pages and make some phone calls I am sure there is a glass shop near you that would be willing to help out.
#6
I was just thinking and how much more would the body flex on my rotiseri than running down the road over bumps,dips and uneven roads?? I may just lift the body off the frame and put a 4x6 in the frona dn rear of the bodoy on stands and see if it sink in the middle and go from there. I do have a good glass guy who puts in my windshields and he would probably take the glass out for me. Thats a ways off yet. Steve
#7
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Why take chances...Here's a story for you
I was just thinking and how much more would the body flex on my rotiseri than running down the road over bumps,dips and uneven roads?? I may just lift the body off the frame and put a 4x6 in the frona dn rear of the bodoy on stands and see if it sink in the middle and go from there. I do have a good glass guy who puts in my windshields and he would probably take the glass out for me. Thats a ways off yet. Steve
I think Jesse makes a really valid point in suggesting taking out the glass. You also make a valid point that there doesn't seem to be a really good reason to take it out except for fear of cracking/breaking during flex on the rotisierie.
Here's my experience. When I had my rocker panels replaced (badly rusted out) several years ago, when the drivers side was cut out, the car dropped several inches, and unexpectedly. Nothing you could see was damaged, and the new rockers went in flawlessly, painted and done like dishes.
Then it rained. Water started going into the trunk through the window seals that had "let go" when the car dropped. (remember you were worried about torsional flex? Yup, that's what happened here) Course, how would you have known? The glass didn't break, or crack - nothing. I didn't find the water in the trunk until about a week after the rain. By then it was too late, all the trunk carpet and sound deadener was smelly and had to be chucked. So that's when I tracked down the leak. Yup, sure as heck it was the window seal opposite the side that dropped.
My neighbor worked as the manager of a glass shop so we swapped cars for the day. He took out the rear window and replaced the seal. What a guy-no charge....Dang, I miss him since he moved away.
Anyway, I can't stress enough that you're dealing with a car that's 39 years old. So's the window sealant. I would not risk anything on this resto. You obviously know how incredibly expensive and rare the vista glass is. Also, keeping the glass in just makes the body on the rotisierie that much heavier and subject to accidental scratching. I would take it out and not worry about media blasting or anything else. New window sealant kits are cheap. Anyway, that's been my experience and my suggested 2cents worth. Hope your project turns out really well. Put up some pictures for us soon. It's always nice to the car prior, during and after the works been done.
#8
Go For It
I was just thinking and how much more would the body flex on my rotiseri than running down the road over bumps,dips and uneven roads?? I may just lift the body off the frame and put a 4x6 in the frona dn rear of the bodoy on stands and see if it sink in the middle and go from there. I do have a good glass guy who puts in my windshields and he would probably take the glass out for me. Thats a ways off yet. Steve
It's pretty well all boxed and reinforced back there to maintain that large opening and all the door weight hanging off the one side, cargo floor weight, roof rack load weight, the whole car has A,B,C and D pillars.
I've seen those Vista roofs cut off and the windows don't break, that glass will flex some and it's pretty solid around the openings.
It may not be the resto norm but I would leave them in too if they don't leak and the channels are good. I think it's better to just leave well enough alone with them from the horror stories I've heard.
A lot more have been broken removing or handling them than anything else.
I would test it out like you said, you should be able to tell pretty fast if it's going to go anywhere.
Take diagonal point to point measurements in a few places for a baseline first if you're worried. I bet it doesn't move at all or enough to mean anything.
#9
I am going to pressure wash the undercarrige this weekend and really see what I got. If the undercarrige is in really good shape I might just do a nose off resto. I plan on driving this car a lot so it may be good enough if I just do some detailing and rebuild the suspention. Steve
#11
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
I am going to pressure wash the undercarrige this weekend and really see what I got. If the undercarrige is in really good shape I might just do a nose off resto. I plan on driving this car a lot so it may be good enough if I just do some detailing and rebuild the suspention. Steve
I really enjoyed looking through your web page rebuild on your 442. Are you putting one together for the VC too? If yes, can you put the link on the site so we can see the pics as you go?
#12
I will be starting a album soon for this car. I may have found the color it's a Dupont Hot Hues color called Molten Bronze but this may change. I like sharing my pics as I do the car as it keeps me motivated.
#13
Hi All, After pressure washing the undercarriage it looks good but I have to do a frame off on it. I just won't be happy unless I do. I will make a decion on the glass when the body gets close to coming off the frame.
#14
I started to tear this car a part a little. So far I removed the rear bumper an all the gate trim to rough out the damage on it. It was knocked in pretty far put came out good. I will attach a couple of before and after. They are tough to tell but it is a big difference.
#16
I started to tear this car a part a little. So far I removed the rear bumper an all the gate trim to rough out the damage on it. It was knocked in pretty far put came out good. I will attach a couple of before and after. They are tough to tell but it is a big difference.
#17
This guy has door replacement frame that would reduce flexing on any car ...
100_3393.jpg
this thread ...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post117011
100_3393.jpg
this thread ...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post117011
#20
I did a brace like that when I did the frame off on my 68 442 convertible. I think the body is rigid enough to put on the rotiseri.
This guy has door replacement frame that would reduce flexing on any car ...
this thread ...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post117011
this thread ...
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post117011
#23
Those channels look nice, no surprises is always good.
I have some extra rocker moldings all bundled up from when I bought the car I've never looked at, I'll check to see if any lower quarter pieces are in there.
Check evilbay, I got fender and rear wheel opening moldings dirt cheap because they had no idea what they were for or nobody else wanted them, still in GM wrappers.
I see the tailgate top two-tone paint molding once in a while on there, may be the same one being listed over and over.
I have some extra rocker moldings all bundled up from when I bought the car I've never looked at, I'll check to see if any lower quarter pieces are in there.
Check evilbay, I got fender and rear wheel opening moldings dirt cheap because they had no idea what they were for or nobody else wanted them, still in GM wrappers.
I see the tailgate top two-tone paint molding once in a while on there, may be the same one being listed over and over.
#24
I would really apprciate the help with the mouldings. I really need to find the roof mouldings for the to-tone. This weekend will start taking all the side mouldings off and disassemble the front end and the begiing to get the drivetrain out and body ready to come off but that is a little ways away. If anyone is interested the W-25 repro hodd fit ok but can't use the hood pop up spring because the bolts that hold it hit the hood frame and won't close all the way. Still trying to figure something out there. Will post some pics by the end of the weekend.
#25
[QUOTE=70vista;117913]... the W-25 repro hodd fit ok but can't use the hood pop up spring because the bolts that hold it hit the hood frame and won't close all the way. Still trying to figure something out there...QUOTE]
Steve, can't you just remove the spring and latch and just use the lockdowns? Did the hood come with the kit? Also, on my hood, I bought the springs for the glass hood, and they weren't strong enough to keep it up! The stock hinges worked perfect. I only have the r/r w/o molding...$25+ ship. If interested, I'll send a pic.....
Steve, can't you just remove the spring and latch and just use the lockdowns? Did the hood come with the kit? Also, on my hood, I bought the springs for the glass hood, and they weren't strong enough to keep it up! The stock hinges worked perfect. I only have the r/r w/o molding...$25+ ship. If interested, I'll send a pic.....
#26
[quote=ent72olds;118125]
Eric, I can use it without the pop up spring and I did get the kit. I will take the moulding if in decent shape. paypal? Thanks
... the W-25 repro hodd fit ok but can't use the hood pop up spring because the bolts that hold it hit the hood frame and won't close all the way. Still trying to figure something out there...QUOTE]
Steve, can't you just remove the spring and latch and just use the lockdowns? Did the hood come with the kit? Also, on my hood, I bought the springs for the glass hood, and they weren't strong enough to keep it up! The stock hinges worked perfect. I only have the r/r w/o molding...$25+ ship. If interested, I'll send a pic.....
Steve, can't you just remove the spring and latch and just use the lockdowns? Did the hood come with the kit? Also, on my hood, I bought the springs for the glass hood, and they weren't strong enough to keep it up! The stock hinges worked perfect. I only have the r/r w/o molding...$25+ ship. If interested, I'll send a pic.....
#29
That's really coming along.
I see you use the same cardboard as me.
I think there's about a running mile of stainless.
Somebody did measure it all once, I have to find that info.
I spent a whole winter straightening mine out and buffing it.
By the time I was finished I actually knew what I was doing.
The anodized pieces like around the door windows and on the post you can't do much with or the stuff comes off.
Is that some sort of filter on the trans line?
I see you use the same cardboard as me.
I think there's about a running mile of stainless.
Somebody did measure it all once, I have to find that info.
I spent a whole winter straightening mine out and buffing it.
By the time I was finished I actually knew what I was doing.
The anodized pieces like around the door windows and on the post you can't do much with or the stuff comes off.
Is that some sort of filter on the trans line?
Last edited by Bluevista; November 3rd, 2009 at 02:50 AM.
#30
I like the cardboard it is better than a creeper (keeps moving all the time). If you get the cardboard from china it is puffier. That is a trans filter on the line which is kinda odd for a add on. I took a rough measurment on the stainless and it was about 126' without the roof rack. I am having it polished by a guy who specializes in stainless. I am still trying to figure out how the door window trim comes off. The body should be ready to come off this weekend. Still trying to figure out where to lift it as it is different in the rear than a cutlass.
That's really coming along.
I see you use the same cardboard as me.
I think there's about a running mile of stainless.
Somebody did measure it all once, I have to find that info.
I spent a whole winter straightening mine out and buffing it.
By the time I was finished I actually knew what I was doing.
The anodized pieces like around the door windows and on the post you can't do much with or the stuff comes off.
Is that some sort of filter on the trans line?
I see you use the same cardboard as me.
I think there's about a running mile of stainless.
Somebody did measure it all once, I have to find that info.
I spent a whole winter straightening mine out and buffing it.
By the time I was finished I actually knew what I was doing.
The anodized pieces like around the door windows and on the post you can't do much with or the stuff comes off.
Is that some sort of filter on the trans line?
#32
I like the cardboard it is better than a creeper (keeps moving all the time). If you get the cardboard from china it is puffier. That is a trans filter on the line which is kinda odd for a add on. I took a rough measurment on the stainless and it was about 126' without the roof rack. I am having it polished by a guy who specializes in stainless. I am still trying to figure out how the door window trim comes off. The body should be ready to come off this weekend. Still trying to figure out where to lift it as it is different in the rear than a cutlass.
I could never get used to a creeper and I just fit under the frame on the cardboard when I'm at my optimal weight.
I need to push the car up a little and inhale deeply to get under it now, have to work on that this winter too.
I think that trim is wrapped around the the window frames somehow?
It doesn't come off easily from what I've heard. I didn't even try to get it off for fear of bending it up but if you figure it out I have some scratched up driver's door pieces that could use replacing.
Last edited by Bluevista; November 3rd, 2009 at 11:12 AM. Reason: I'll never tell
#34
Just an Olds Guy
Join Date: Jul 2008
Location: Edmonton, AB. And "I am Can 'eh' jun - eh"
Posts: 24,525
Looking forward to the continuing restoration. You have a beautiful car. Judging from the condtion of the body, either it has really low miles, or was always garaged, maybe both?
If you're interested, I think I have a link to replacement woodgrain. I'll check my records if you need it.
#35
Yes this is a parts place W-25 hood. It si a little different on the underside compared to a original W-25 hood. It will work as is I hope. I also put a link on my web page for the Vista Cruiser at http://69.205.125.5
Is this the Parts place W25 hood? If it is, doesn't make sense that the hood spring won't work. 70Post might have some fitment tips for you about these hoods. I know he's done some.
Looking forward to the continuing restoration. You have a beautiful car. Judging from the condtion of the body, either it has really low miles, or was always garaged, maybe both?
If you're interested, I think I have a link to replacement woodgrain. I'll check my records if you need it.
Looking forward to the continuing restoration. You have a beautiful car. Judging from the condtion of the body, either it has really low miles, or was always garaged, maybe both?
If you're interested, I think I have a link to replacement woodgrain. I'll check my records if you need it.
#38
Got some more work done on the vist cruiser today. I decided it was best to take all the vista and side glass out so had my local glass guy come out and had it all removed. I am happy I did as there was a little rust in a couple of spots and none of it broke. Here are some pics of the openings.
#39
More progress on my Vista Cruiser. The body is ready to come off the frame. I plan on getting the body off then rebuild the frame/suspention and get the body on the rotiseri. I will the prep the body shell and paint the bottom and but the body back on the frame. That should keep me busy all winter. Here are some pics of where it is now.
#40
Thanks for the updates and great pics. Your updates are an inspiration to all of us slaggers that there more to life than just work and household projects.
Your 68 442 vert looks great. Hopefully sooner than later I can get my 68 vert back together and on the road. Nice Website.
Keep the pics coming.
Your 68 442 vert looks great. Hopefully sooner than later I can get my 68 vert back together and on the road. Nice Website.
Keep the pics coming.