67 Cutlass

I've been pretty steady on this car for the last 2 to 3 weeks.
Here's a few pics of what the car looked like when I bought it in 2001. Drove it for a few years, took it off the road and it sat for quite a few more years. Mother Nature did a lot more damage even while she sat. I started to muddle around with it about three years ago doing bits and pieces at a time.


Accident damage from the previous owner. Had to put a temp fender on this side.


So now I'm into it pretty heavy. The interior is in pretty good shape so it's all been removed and put in my other garage. I'm probably a little over my head but I'll keep pushing forward. Part of my problem is I tend to rush things once in awhile, think it didn't come out the way I wanted, get frustrated and walk away from it for awhile, then it sits again. Here's what it looked like a few weeks ago.


The rear window channel was rotted out pretty bad. I attempted half a$$ repairs a few years back by welding in some little patches here and there. Mother nature kept doing her thing with the rest of it.


So I bought a new panel. Here's what I've done with it the last several days.
Cutting out the old panel was a serious PIA!
I started by cutting at the inner perimeter of the panel.


After alot of grinding with high speed carbide bits and drilling, it's all out and there's quite a bit of rust under the old panel which I used a wire wheel on a grinder to get off. This is part of what I did today. There's still more prep work to do but that's tomorrow's task.



Just trying to catch you all up for now. I'll post more pics of some other things I've already done to the car a little later.

a64olz

I love it, one day you are polishing up a piece of chrome and *bam! before you know it, you have got body panels cut off the car and parts and pieces all over the place. One thing leads to another welcome to the dark side

67 Cutlass

Boy, that's the truth!

67 Cutlass

I decided it was time to get rid of the newspaper I used for masking. The vinyl roof was new from the last owner and the headliner is in very good shape. I did this work yesterday before working the rear window channel.

The roof after removing the newspaper:


Roof with masking paper


The headliner


Headliner covered


I still have newspaper on some of the windows and that will eventually be getting replaced too.
More later when I get time.

csstrux

Masking that headliner had to be a REAL treat

gearheads78

if you are saving the top I would put cardboard over it too. Grinding sparks and weld splatter will go right through and make burn spots with just paper.

looking good so far

67 Cutlass

Yup, covering the headliner was a real PIA
Yes I should cover the roof with cardboard and that was my intention but I got too involved with doing the other stuff and neglected the cardboard on the roof. I even mentioned the cardboard to the wife the other day and she agreed!
Cardboard on the roof tomorrow is going to be my priority!


Here's what I managed to accomplish today.
Had to tweak the hell out of the new panel. Bending the front flange with a body hammer was very tedious. A few snips here and there in the corners, a little grinding in a few spots and a lot of test fits to get it as close as I can.

Here's a dry fit from the passenger/interior side before folding over the front flange.


Getting it close to flat, I used a deck board with a towel to protect the visible side while gradually hammering over the flange.


Here's an overall final dry fit, I hope.


Front flange folded over view.


Second coat of rust inhibitor for the never to be seen area.



Some other things I accomplished today was drill all my holes in the body, power sanded the black paint from the new panel in the areas to be welded and power brushed the surface rust on the overhead of the existing trunk areas.


Should I at least put a primer/sealer in this area before welding in the new panel?
I do have some DTM epoxy prime/seal on hand.
Geez! What a long day!

ent72olds

Might want to get some weld through primer...products I've used in the past is the 3M...product I use now is Spies Hecker 3255. Comes in aerosol. Also an excellent etch prime and rust protector. See my '70 Vista Cruiser Project Thread...it may be able to give you some guidance! Keep up the good work! I think '67 is the best looking body style for the Cutlass!

67 Cutlass

So here's where the project stands.

I've gotten this panel as close as I can get it but not too happy with the corners on the driver side.
The panel is only clamped into place for now and that's where it will sit until I decide what to do with it.

Front corner driver side.


Back corner driver side. This is where I have the problem. It sits a little back (seen in the image) and a little high. If I push it back a touch it only throws off the front corner a little but still not perfect in the back.


The passenger side seems to fit much better.

Passenger front corner.


Passenger back corner.



So for now the panel will sit clamped in place. I decided to move to another part of the project.

I've seen other threads where the seams were filled with body filler.
They do look great once finished though.

I was going to reweld the corners like the factory did and then use seam sealer like GM did on the top of the seams. Keep in mind that chrome trim wraps over the vinyl that comes very close to these seams.

67 Cutlass

So as the rear filler panel sits in a little limbo, I decided to work the driver rear quarter. I know from all the sanding that it would be wavey so I felt it needed some filler to get it as flat as possible.
I don't seem to have any luck with body filler. I know I'm not quick enough applying it 'cause it always sets up too fast for me. I'm now using Rage Gold instead of the Bondo brand.

The intention was to do a skim coat but like I said the filler sets up too fast for me. I've heard before that there's a knack to putting it on and I agree.
I tried the first coat and got the back half of the quarter panel covered then the filler started to set on me and was not spreading very smooth. This was only about 5 minutes after it was mixed. The only way I know the ratio mix is what the can says "a 4" diameter of filler and lay the hardener across the diameter" so that's what I did.
I did spot areas about 4 times and block sanded each time with 80 grit.
I used a dry guide coat then blocked with 150 grit.



So then I'm not sure how to properly block sand all the compound angles and curves at the wheel wells and really get the body lines back. There were previous repairs in the next two pics.




I'm embarrased to say I spent about 10 - 12 hours on this thing and don't feel like I got anywhere with it. Part of me thinks I made things worse another part says it's been improved.
It seems pretty damn close after the guide coat was used on the filler and block sanded out with 150 grit. So should I leave it as is until my primer filler then block sand to see where it really stands or what?

67 Cutlass

I think I'm gonna start using less hardener when I mix filler in the future.
Looking at the pics of the filler on the quarter panel. Right now it's as smooth as a baby's bottom. Sliding my hand over the panel I can't feel anything but smooth, smooth, smooth.

So are the darker shades of filler considered low spots?



Right now I'm leaning towards spraying a few coats of 2K primer filler then block sand to see where both quarter panels stand.

RAMBOW

Looking really good!

67 Cutlass

Thanks! I can use a little boost once in a while.
Funny, I was thinking about this thread before going to work today and how it has been stalled for a while.

I have been working on straightening the panels out with filler a little at a time when I come home from work but I'm still not getting what I'm looking for at the compound body lines. Guess that's what happens when you have NO experience with these kind of things. Yet, I will continue forward.
I didn't want to bore the crowd with pictures of my body filler work. Besides, I'm not sure if I'm even doing it right.

When I'm ready for the 2K filler primer then I'll post some pics. Work has me really maxed out right now.

ent72olds

Have you tried using guide coat and 3/4" masking tape to get your lines straight? Instead of spreading filler on both sides of a bodyline at the same time, tape off(create the line visually with the tape, leave it there, and only work the opposite side of the line with filler, blocking and guidecoat until you believe you are satisfied. Once you are, pull off tape, tape off the line again on the other side(the side you finished), and repeat process....remember to only block to the edge of the tape. When you remove, your line should be very close(enough that the filler primer will be blocked the same way, using tape) Also, make your own sanding blocks of different shapes. Different size radiator hose or copper pipe for concave areas etc.....There is no rule book! Be creative and think outside the box! Looking great, keep at it!

67 Cutlass

I've been using dry guide coat and it has helped.
I was using the tape at the body lines but I've been pulling it off before the filler gets too hard. It helps using the tape but I will try doing as you suggested leaving the tape and work one side at a time.
Thanks for that tip Erik

67 Cutlass

Yes, I've been pretty quiet posting on this project. So, time for an update.
I tacked and partially welded in the rear window filler panel but ran out of argon on my MIG so that sits on the back burner again until I get more argon. It actually didn't fit too bad. I'll post pics once it's finished.
I've have the body as close as I can get it so I decided to put the first layer of 2K primer on it. I'll let it sit a day or so then start the block sanding. Here's a few pics.

Before 2K primer

DSC01650.jpg

DSC01652.jpg

First layer of 2K primer. 4 coats.

DSC01655.jpg

DSC01656.jpg

Now all I have to do is get in the mind set for more block sanding. I'm so sick of sanding but it should be worth it in the end.

Wasted

Looks like your doing a good job. Have you decided on a color for it yet?

csouth

Nice job... Now I know what I have to look forward too over the winter...LOL

Ghost Post

Lookin' real good!!!

Are you happy w/ your doors fit, gaps and operation?.
Just make sure all is as good as it can be before the final bodywork as a panel can look too fat or a body line look off if you try to set things up later..
And w/ Post cars (which are THE best by the way) sometimes you may need to physically bend the upper doorframes to suit the lower part of the door's best gap, fit and operation..

Love the Gold w/ Black Hat look!

~ Pete

67 Cutlass

Thanks for all the kudos guys! It really helps to boost me.

I'll be staying with the gold color. I have a color chip pamphlet by Nason and I'm going with the Champagne Gold Pearl. I'll be doing a 2 stage if I ever get to paint it.
I still have the fenders, hood and trunk lid to do yet. Oh joy, more sanding...

snowballs442

Few people would have the courage to do that...keep it up and keep the pictures coming. I love these stories. They usually have a good ending

gearheads78

Looking great. Keep it up.

67 Cutlass

I haven't taken the doors off yet and not sure if I'm going to. I do intend on doing the jams. The alignment and gaps are pretty decent. The doors have power windows and the wire harnesses will need to come out before I do the jams.

I really needed to get something on the body to prevent suface rust.

Just to let everyone know ...
Devilbiss Starting Line gun w/1.8 tip
30 PSI
Kustom Shop 2k ISO Free urethane primer
Ratio 3:1 (primer/hardener)
4 coats (15-20 minutes between each)
50% overlap
Temps were 67 at first coat & 73 at fourth coat

Not sure if I had the gun dialed in right. It seemed to spray okay. The only thing I messed with was the fluid needle backed out 3 1/2 turns. The fan pattern was shaped like a cigar about 10-12 inches tall and I didn't touch the air control at the bottom of the gun. Test spray on cardboard looked okay.
I realized how important lighting is while spraying. Had every light on in my shop and it still wasn't enough. Makes it tougher to see the fan but I managed. Guess I'll be setting up more lights down the road.

Time to go block sand! YEA!!!!

Tungsten

For someone who wasn't sure how to approach the body work at the start, you sure are doing a good job of things. If you stop and look at the succession of photos that you've posted in this thread, and pay no attention to the date stamps, you can see the true amount of progress that you've made.

Nothing worth doing is ever easy, and I've found that doing it right is rarely quick. Congrats and keep at it!

67 Cutlass

WOW! Well put! Thankyou
I guess not having any experience with this type of work has made me apprehensive to the tasks at hand.

Started the block sanding with 150 grit dry today. Here's a few pics.

Passenger door
DSC01658.jpg

A few low spots? close up
DSC01659.jpg

So I guess my question to the experienced body techs here is,
do I need to stress out over these little low spots or what? There are a few more than these two spots. Keep in mind another 4 coats of 2K will be sprayed after the block sanding. Thoughts and comments welcome

ent72olds

Did you use guide coat? Yes, stress over them...keep blocking until you start breaking to metal, that's how you get the panel straight. Obviously, once you hit metal, stop blocking. You said you will be re-priming anyway, so keep going and get the panel straight. It's a filler primer for a reason. By the way, nice progress! Keep it up!

67 Cutlass

I didn't use guide coat for that door. That's all I've done so far anyway. I've been busy doing other things around the house and yard. The primer was a dark gray with a little sheen to it (is the sheen from the hardener?) and after sanding it's a light gray. I did hit metal in a few spots and stopped in those areas. Should I still use the guide coat or are the color differences good enough? Guess I should guide coat it anyway.