Lady72nRob71

And so I graduate...



Engine bay is hard to photograph now, as the gold is too shiny. The dark stays too dark and when over exposed, the gold is too bright...

and proud for being crazy...
Thanks - I am debating if I want to repeat this on a wagon.

A digital one? You mean to say my bubble one that I have not even got yet is outdated? Stupid technology.

I have to draw a straight line? Great - I did not do well in art class...
Time to get out the beer - I think i can do it...

Thanks. I never knew about all those weights... Wheel LOOKS okay and the tire shop did not say anything, so who knows...
Given the abuse this car has seen over its life, it could be damaged. However, the front right has seen much more abuse based on the tire and suspension damage.

cutlassgal

What a great job, Rob!!! She looks absolutely beautiful!

RAMBOW

Digital ones are nice because there is no manually resetting the bubble for level for each step. You just push a button and it sets level. The digital ones are a few bucks more than the standard, but you'll be fine with the one you got.

For the parrallel line... God no- you don't have to draw. I couldn't do it to save my life! Thats what the lazer level is for. I just left it turned on the whole time with IT painting the straight line on the floor. Gotta love technology.

The car really is looking great- you've come a long way with this project.

Allan R

What is that red ground strap doing just lying across the battery??? No graduating till it's hooked up

henryk8398

Phenomenal job!

442_Mustang

Summer School!

classicjoe

Nice, very Nice

ROBZ442

WOW great job.

Lady72nRob71

So is the parallel line just approximate or does it have to be exact? I can do precision guesswork fairly well most of the time on certain days....


That is the power feed to the stereo amplifier. This stupid new side post battery has the threads so deep into the terminal that I cannot get the bolt on with that one extra terminal stuck in there!
I do not want an adapter post on it either. I will figure it out soon.

Many thanks to all for the complements. Although i see the upcoming residual work and all the small "factory looking" flaws, I have to admit it looks pretty good. And for being my first "real" on-my-own resto project, I think it came out better than expected. Thanks to all here whom had provided me with valuable information and motivation.

I was given many challenges, such as the hottest summer on record , a tiny un-air conditioned garage , a routine day job , and assisting 50% in a concurrent restoration of a friend's car:

Yes it is a Pinto....

I have the knowledge of those cars, so why not...
Certainly a car that will steal some attention at shows!

In the end I made it and I feel very wore out and exhausted. I think it is time for a vacation!
(And a time to start planning out the continuation of Lady's resto fro early next year!

oldzy

Curious... that long coily copper stuff for the A/C (IIRC there is a sensor on the end of it)... most ppl let it hang out... but IIRC... mine was wrapped around the big alum tube thingy underneath that yukky sticky black tarry stuff originally. Or perhaps someone did that later, I don't know. What is the correct factory way?

oldsguybry

excellent , now that you will have extra room im bringing my car over.

Lady72nRob71

The factory Fridgidaire (marked on top) expansion valve had very short custom fitted capillaries, so there was not enough to coil up. They went through some clips but that is it. See here:


All the new ones are universal fit. I wound my excess tubing on a socket to neaten it up. Remember these are tiny pipes and cannot be crimped or damaged.

CQR

Nice job Rob. Looks fantastic. And the pinto pics are cool too.

Allan R

I went back to this thread since I'm at the stage of redoing the steering shaft on mine. I have the rag joint nuts off, the upper lock ring. I'm looking at the CSM pages 9A59 and 9A61 to better understand this. I have the clamp nut off, but didn't take out the bolt. If I do that, will the housing slide back up a bit to let the shaft clear the bolts at the rag joint? I know I should just go do it, but thought I'd get some schooling first. Here's your apple, teacher

MDchanic

With the nuts off the rag joint, the steering mid-shaft should slide an inch or less into the universal joint, toward the firewall.

If it doesn't slide far enough, you can either
Loosen the steering column attachments and let the whole column slide back, or
Remove some of the steering box bolts, allowing the steering box to pivot away slightly, or
Back out the rag joint bolts (easier in some than in others).

- Eric

Allan R

thx Eric,
I'm just on my way out right now, but I'll give this a try later. I don't want to touch the steering box bolts. If the shaft doesn't move far enough, I'll look at moving the steering column. It has to come out anyway, I just didn't want to do it right now. Sounds like the rag joint bolds may be an easier solution.

Once the shaft is off it should be easier to get the flex joint off too.

Allan R

Ok, I think I found out what the problem is. The clamp bolt and nut are out, but I need to remove the clamp in order for the shaft to get that 1" of travel, right? The clamp looks like cast metal. I tried prying it apart with a flatblade but it didn't want to move. Thought I'd check back here before going at it with something stronger. Am I on the right track?

Lady72nRob71

REMOVE the bolts from the clamp on the intermediate shaft and remove the clamp bolt and nuts from the rag joint.
No clamp needs to come off - just pry open the top one a bit to allow the shaft to slide. This will gain you about 1/4".
Grab the lower end of the intermediate shaft and firmly and slowly push it up towards the column. The whole thing should slide slowly up into the U-joint (the big part with the seal) enough where the intermediate shaft can be gently pried up over the rag joint nuts. This will get you about 3/4". The rag joint also flexes, so you can pry under it to push the studs down and int shaft should pop out.
Mine was pretty easy to pull.

HOWEVER, reassy of nicely painted parts WILL involve loosening the gearbox, but it is no big deal - 3 bolts. EASIER than the column.
But if you are replacing the column, then just yank that and leave the gearbox alone.

Thanks for the apple.
<CRUNCH, CRUNCH>





<BURP...>





Now send me a beer.

Allan R

Ok, I was wondering about that. I have a really good pic of the rag joint clamp/bolt so I should be ok getting it out. That shaft will be outta there tonight. So by undoing the pressure on both clamps, this allows the shaft to move. Got it!


Yah baby! Dude, it's like you read my mind. I still haven't given up the idea of taking out the gearbox/pump. So without checking my CSM heres a dumbass question. The pump s/b belt driven, so when I take it off c/w reservoir there isn't any gasket between the pump and block is there?

You're welcome. Always thought that it was polite to give the teacher an apple. Sorry, no beer. If you want a beer I have to come down there and drink with you, or vice versa. I can't let you drink alone - it would be morally unconscionable (is that even a word?) I think I wanna come down and see your big chested neighbor table dance..... I understand she wanted to be a computer IT geek but was told no one wanted a set of floppies any more? Or was it her hubby who had a floppy disk? Ok, I'm bad and she has to spank me now. Be right down!

Lady72nRob71

Removing the 3 bolts on the gearbox is easy with a ratchet. When loose, set the box on a stepstool and bungeecord it up right. Then pop it back on when done. No leaks if you do not bust the hoses.

The pump is belt driven, yes. C/W means country/western. How does this factor in to power steering?
As long as the pump cap is on, and stays up right, and the hoses are not loosened, then it will not leak. I pulled mine out as a system then drained it.



The only thing that might get the neighbor lady to table dance again is another midnight 'possum encounter.

However, they are BACK and in large numbers this year!
Here is #3 that I caught back on Thursday during a week of 'possum catching.


All I have to do is set up a camera, let it into their garage late in the night, and monitor the fun when she goes out for a midnight smoke! Thats what did it 5 years ago or so. Too bad she ditched the aqua satin nightie for a t-shirt a while back...

My neighbor were taking these critters to the preserve and let them go but lately his "mystery meat stew" has been tasking a bit odd... I think I should just call animal control to dispose of the beasts.

MDchanic

Hey - you found my cat!



- Eric

Allan R

If the 3 bolts are anything like the others I've had to deal with they won't be easy. This is so much sounding like something I just have to try.... oh well m_____ a___ w_____. Let's see if you can fill in the missing letters. What did you take off first, the pump/reservoir or the gearbox?

So I'll probably have to use a torque wrench or breaker bar to get them started. God forbid I should bust any hoses. I may end up replacing them if the fittings show any signs of leaking though.

c/w in the context I meant is 'complete with'. I know what you mean about keeping it properly orientated. I made that mistake with my coolant overflow. I simply forgot to tape the drain tube upright. Ended up cleaning up about a quart of antifreeze from the floor.

Allan R

I think you spelled it wrong. As in James Cagney's "You dirty cat, you dirty cat. You're the dirty cat that killed my brother...." I know, LAME

Lady72nRob71

Dude, if you pull the PS pump and all its crazy brackets and crap, you might as well --------------





pull the motor...

If you just want to get the steery shaft in, just loosen the gearbox and leave it sealed up.

If you decide to just DO IT ALL, then Pull the system.
Details here:
https://classicoldsmobile.com/forums...tml#post293432
If the hoses are more than 10 years old, replace them.
Of course then is a good time to rebuild your system and bleed it only once.

I think he ended up in my neighbor's "mystery meat stew". Meat was a bit tough and gamey tasting...

Glad I am not the only one to have done that. Luckily I only spilled a cup worth...

Allan R

Gee, how many guys on this forum told you that too??? You know I'm gonna pull the motor, just not right now. Besides it would be darn near impossible to get an engine hoist in place the way the car is sitting.

Let's see, IIRC the hoses are ONLY 39 years old. Never been replaced so it might be a good time to do that. Hoses aren't all that expensive. From what I've read on your posts, it can be a real chore to drain all the fluid from the gearbox. Does PS fluid wear out? I've never seen a spec that says to change it. Bleed it??? I feel like I'm the one being bled here...

Lady72nRob71

Understand completely why you cannot pull the motor - same reason as I had.
When thinking of all the belts and brackets and crap, the PS would be easiest done when you pull the motor. The gearbox is pretty easy to pull with the car together.

Of course not having AC will make pulling the pump easier. Weigh it both ways. Either way, it needs to be done soon. My car prolly had the original fluid in it too, a conglomeration of ATF, PS fluid, sand, dirt, and other crap. Clean fluid would not easily break down if not overheated, but could be replaced now. Your hoses are a rupture waiting to happen.

Allan R

It's probably going to just as easy to pull it now while I've got the intermediate shaft out, and am replacing the steering column, so it's probably good to do it now. Plus it will get the hoses out of the way on the DS frame rail, and I can clean up the mounting bracket/pulley. (ILT has the hoses for 55/set, Fusicks wants 76.50, PP wants 59.00 - I'll check locally first though.) Then I can also do something I've been wanting to do - check the engine block to see if it matches the VIN. It better! But it will be nice to have it documented. Did you check your stamping pad?

I kind of wondered about the rubber integrity on those hoses. From what I read in the AM there's only about 35-39 psi running through them, but rubber is what it is, and it's been through 39 years of hot/cold. Amazing it doesn't leak. Now if I could say the same for the engine seals.....

joesw31

Allen,

pull the gear box and pump out together. I have done it many times. Its a little heavy in weight, but real easy.

Pull alternator and brackets---clean / detail paint

Pull power steering pump and gear box. A total of two nuts and a bolt secure the the pump bracket to the block.

Disconnect the rag joint

pickle fork for the pitman arm.

Three bolts on the gear box on the frame.

Now the left side of the engine can be painted. How about new valve cover gasket on that side.

I'm glad my car has manual steering....

joesw31

Rob,

your engine bay looks great! Your ready for the autorama! And the autorama is in Houston this November...

Lady72nRob71

Allan,

Probably a good time to do it now so you can paint the frame easier.
Paint the brackets and all and just wire to the fender when the motor comes out later.

I would think the pressure hose would have more than that during stopped wheel turns... What page did you see that on?

Rockauto has the hoses also. Pressure hose is special, return hose is non-pressurized, so not too special. It can attach with simple clamps if originality is not important.
Rubber that old will usually burst before springing a small leak.


Thanks! Probably will not make it down there, as i will take vacation in Oregon around that time.
Besides, I need to redo the front clip in early spring...

Allan R

1. Step one is done. The steering shaft is out. The pump and gearbox is coming out tommorrow. I will probably drain the fluid, detail the box and reinstall. It's not been a problem nor has it been leaking or complaining.
2. alternator is new a/c delco 61 amp. Mounting bracket detailed in 2008
3. Rag joint is out and disassembled. Cleanup in progress
4. Don't need to worry about the pitman arm, my entire steering assembly is out right now.
5. Engine is coming out next spring so that's when it gets cleaned up and all new seals/gaskets



More fun than a jar of rotten pickled eggs! Yes I'll get all the access I need to clean up the frame at the front for now. Weather has been cooperative too!
In the AM page 297 (Power steering installation and fill procedure) step 5 states that pressure not to exceed 35 psi at pump.
I checked rockauto and can get both hoses for around 21.00 but shipping to me is 26.00. I will check with NAPA. They have both hoses listed in their catalogue but do not have prices on line. I can get wholesale pricing so I think it will be competitive with Rockauto/Autozone or O'Reillys without the shipping.

I have to go back an look at your thread about cleaning up the steering shaft. I can't remember whether you took the rubber boot off the shaft. Mine is all diassembled with the exception of the boot and spring holding it. Most is already cleaned up using varsol/brush and wire wheel. Looking good so far, just have to paint and reassemble. I'll post pics on my build thread.

MDchanic

I thought this sounded odd, but without a source to see exactly what you were talking about, I didn't want to say anything.

Is this the page you're talking about?



This does NOT refer to the operating pressure in the high pressure hose, which is about 1,100psi. It refers to the calibration pressure of the factory's mass-production fill and bleeding device (they did not just pour in the fluid from a can). Completely different thing.

- Eric

Allan R

Yes it is. WOW I didn't realize the pressure was that high! I stand corrected. Rob is right, it's probably way past time to change the pressure hoses on my car. Lucky they haven't blown up. I'm going to attribute their longevity to the car being looked after very well, and not having to be operated in freezing or boiling hot temps. Appreciate your comment Eric, I truly didn't realize what the pressure fill statement related to.

Lady72nRob71

I left the rubber seal / boot on my shaft and just cleaned it and masked it. I did not want to risk damaging it as it looked perfect.

Pitman arm can stay on your box - it is a non-wear item unless the center link stud wallowed the hole out.

This time anyway...

Pressure should be no higher than 200psi during normal driving. Turning corners pressure can reach 450psi and during parking, 900-1300psi can be expected, depending on tires and weight of the car. CSM has the exact wording...
Return hose gets no big pressure, but the pressure hose gets it all.

It boils down to 3 words though - change your hoses!

MDchanic

Well, the return hose gets some pressure -
The PS cooler (on the low pressure side) on my truck developed a rust hole a couple of weeks ago, when I was dragging home a 425, and believe me, there was enough pressure to make PS fluid come out .

On the plus side, I don't have to worry about my engine compartment rusting for the next several years...

- Eric

Allan R

That's what I thought on the rubber seal. BTW, ILT now sells them, but that means you would have to completely drift out the bearing pin to reinstall it. I don't want my steering shaft to be satin black, I like the cast color better. I'm going to try something different on the rag joint - it will be in the disc brake backing plate thread when I get around to doing it.

Hoses are ordered and will be here in 4 days. Price is less than ILT, Fusick or PP and I don't have to pay shipping or wait 10-12 days. Costs less at Rockauto, but shipping makes it even. I really hate the shipping cost factor across borders . I could live in Whiterock BC which is less than 10 minutes from WA, and there would still be this idiotic 'shipping charge'. But then again if I lived that close I would just get a WA mail drop and go pick it up or shop one of the parts outlets in WA.

Lady72nRob71

Last week on Thursday, the SPC 91000 alignment jig came in. I bought it from a ricer site since it was 20 less than Summit.

I feel a bit dirty from getting it there, but 20 bucks will buy me a case of beer…


Camber…
As soon as I got the jig out of the box, I set it on the ground right next to the left wheel and zeroed it as per the directions.

I popped it on the left wheel and it read a tad under +1*, within the factory spec!
I moved to the right side, zeroed it and I got a tad above +1/4*, again within factory spec!
The left is supposed to be +1/2* more than the left to factor in the weight of the driver.
That was under 10 minutes…

Caster and toe were more complex, so I waited to do them that Sunday in the driveway…

Toe…
Front wheels were rolled into small patches of play sand. Steering wheel was centered and locked.

I did not pay the extra 50 for the optional toe “adapters”, as they were just two metal arms that folded down with slots to hold a tape measure. I have lots of scrap metal already, so I made my own…

I screwed a shelving bracket strip to the bottom of the jig and attached it to the wheel, using a small bungee cord to secure it well.
I also set up a string line along the car to help me get the wheel straight.
Two tape measures were compared and verified to measure the same. The ends were clamped to the ends of the toe bracket I added to the jig.
Here is the contraption so far on the left side…




The rear track is about 0.7” narrower than the front, so this needs to be kept in mind.

The right wheel got just a straight edge attached, which was a length of angle aluminum held on by another bungee cord with thick hard foam spacers holding it off the wheel edge.
I used a caliper often to make sure everything was straight and lined up.
The tape measures were set on bricks on the right side and some wood block were used to support the tape mid section.
Right side jig looked like this:

Note the 1.25” of toe…


The tie rod clamps were loosened and I began by screwing the left side one to get the left wheel parallel to the string. Being new, the clamp turned easily in my hand. The wheels pivoted easily in the sand, but regardless, I tried to settle it as best as I could after each adjustment. Some oil on the tie rod threads is a smart addition also.

Despite over an inch of toe, small adjustments go a LONG way! Do only small adjustments and check the measurements often! Number of tie rod end exposed threads should be about the same.

When I was happy with the left side I finished up on the right. After the coarse adjustments, I went to doing the fine.
Here is when liberal checking of the jig’s alignment was done to make sure all was well. After tightening the tie rod clamps, I rechecked everything again.

In the end, I had less than 1/16” toe out, good enough for now. Specs were +/-1/8”.


Note the special fine tuning tools………….


One unusual thing I did…
When toe was set, the right clamp had its slot upwards, making a nice water and dirt depository, inviting some fast rusting.
I disconnected the tie rod end from the spindle and turned it and the clamp in opposite unison to where the length stayed the same but the slot was at the bottom.
Outer tie rod ends were torqued and cotter pins installed.
Clamp bolts were torqued as well.

Caster…
I followed the instructions, moving my straight line out and turning the front wheels out 15* to the line.

I zeroed the jig, turned the wheels to 15* inward, and read the caster. It was +2.25*.
I repeated with the right side and it was about +3.0.
Cross caster should be under 1*, so this was in spec, too.

The whole alignment process took about 2 hours, not counting the engineering of the jig and setup…


But - how well did it work? It was then time to find out!

Lady72nRob71

After 4 and a half months, it was time for a drive.
Not sure what I would encounter but off I went.

The good…
Backing out of the drive with tight turns was quiet and very smooth. Steering pump sounded, well, there was almost no sound! No tire jumping or scrubbing noises either.

On the road she rode very well – tight and quiet. High rate springs gave more road feel but not harsh at all.
Brakes felt okay, though a little weak, but need some gradual break-in. Absolutely no rattles, clunks, squeaks, or other noises from up front.
She steered straight ahead on a level road with no hands on the wheel. She brakes straight, too.
Oil and temp was fine.
Engine power was just like it was before – she ran great.
I felt the desire to begin a 100 mile trip!!
I got home after 9 miles and let her cool a bit. I checked all over for leaks and found none in new places.

The bad:
The steering wheel is not centered when going straight ahead. I tried my best to get it straight, but failed…

On the brighter side, my neighbors have both had alignments done at NTB and they get theirs back with the wheels cocked also! Must be an alignment feature…
Actually, the wheel fits better into my fingers when my arms are on the door sill and armrest, so I might just leave it there for a while.

The tighter feel of the 12.7:1 steering box is not there. With the car sitting still on clean coarse concrete, I can still turn the wheel three turns lock to lock with my pinky. There is still a “very easy” feel going straight down the road, too. Kinda like how it was before – just too light.
I called Chip and he knows something in the box was either overlooked or tested good on the bench but fails in real life application. I can still drive the car for now thank goodness. He offered to send a pickup tag for it early next year when I am restoring the front end and the car is down again. Geez – some fun is just worth repeating… Glad it wasn’t the pump as it is harder to remove!

The PS and ALT belts loosened up as they seated in their grooves and paint wore from the pulleys. I tightened them easily.

The ugly:
Her pretty gold POR15 engine paint has discolored into bronze above the exhaust ports in just 10 miles of driving…

I sure hope the rest stands up and that it will not start peeling!

So all in all, how did I do?
No needed parts left over, aside from those replaced with others!
I am pretty happy with the outcome…

Friday i will go get her inspected and go for a longer cruise and get some calendar pictures!

442_Mustang

You can adjust the steering wheel by lengthening the passenger side tie rod and shortening the drivers side by the same amount. Adjusting the tie rods i mean.

Lady72nRob71

I might try that...
I figure with the wight of the car on the wheels and the steery wheel unlocked, I can turn both clamps in a somewhat easy unison...
Just when i thought I was done..........................