DLaz70OLDS98

Bingo, one is for the switch pitch and one is for the downshift. I'm close Joe! I predict I'll be able to fire it up mid January.

Eddie Hansen

Nice ... I like autometer mid januaty ...hope the garage is heated lol.

67Olds442X2

Drew, I got the AutoMeter Sport Comp series and they sell brackets.

DLaz70OLDS98

So I've been cleaning up some little lingering odds and ends on the car. I was not able to find a metal transmission dustcover with the cutout on the driver side for the starter so I decided to take one patch the original cut out and make a new one. It came out pretty nice and fits very nicely. I attached a few shots of the cover.
I also measured up for my new driveshaft and contacted a local shop. They gave me an estimate of $365 for a 3.5" aluminum driveshaft. Does that seem reasonable? I looked at Denny's Driveshaft online and see that they are charging $525 for a similar one. I called another local shop but he wouldn't give me an estimate so I was not comfortable with them. I just want to make sure I am not being taken on this.


Thanks
Drew

Eddie Hansen

Must be jersey lol.... nice work drew.....

DLaz70OLDS98

LMAO.... Thanks Buddy!

DLaz70OLDS98

Well I am plugging away at wiring up the motor and the auxiliary gauges and the tachometer. I got the MSD Ready to Run distributor installed and properly wired. I removed the resistor line from the main wire harness and replaced it with a 12 gauge wire to supply a constant 12V to the Blaster 2 coil. I also installed a set of R&M Billet Wire looms for the ignition wires. I am very happy with these looms as they really tidy up the engine compartment. I have a question regarding the brake warning light wire. I tried to plug it into the new proportioning valve and it really does not fit. Can anyone provide me some insight on this and what I can do to make it fit?


I am also working on wiring in the auxiliary gauges/tachometer and by default repairing the wiring harness from a PO hack job. There was a rash of wire nuts holding half the dash harness together, but nothing a soldering iron and some heat shrink wont solve. I am keeping the dummy lights wired up in conjunction with the new electrical gauges.


I also got my 3.5 inch aluminum driveshaft and got installed with no issues. I thought for sure I would have some issues with the H pipe clearance, nope perfect!


Here are some photos of the progress. Enjoy!

Eddie Hansen

Looking good drew....

steverw

Wow it looks great! Cant wait to get my 67 that far along. Where did you get the driveshaft and approx how much did it set you back? Love 67's

Steve

oldcutlass

Your making good progress.

Eddie Hansen

Drew my warning sender looked completely different has the little stud on top to fit that connector can you unscrew that sender and try using your old one? Or a new old style one?

Eddie Hansen

Drew I went out to the garage , I checked the prop valve I first received with my 4 wheel disc conversion from the right stuff, it has the same sender, I believe they use a 72 and up prop valve that fits under the master cyl, I did not like the way that looked and decided to put in an adjustable valve and the stock distribution block. Iy has the sender I believe you will need . It has an unshrouded pin for connection, I believe your old sender will fit? That plastic thing does unscrew and you replace it with a new one with the pin or get a newer connector and change that.
You may be able to find a connector thatwill fit bullet type or similar, solder and heat shrink..

I know not much help....

DLaz70OLDS98

Tanks Steve, I got my driveshaft from a local shop (Axle Exchange, Fairfield NJ), http://www.axle-exchange.com/ . It cost me 335 cheddar backs, which to me is great. I looked at Denny Driveshaft and they are charging over $500 for an aluminum shaft for the 67. I had already had the slip yoke and U-joints so that also helped out.

DLaz70OLDS98

Thanks Eric!!!!

DLaz70OLDS98

Eddie, your a genius , I completely flaked out on this. I need to see if I still have the old D block and I can pull that out and replace it. I am not a fan of how this system look s either and it really kind of in the way. I may end up re-pluming this later on.
Thanks again Eddie!

Eddie Hansen

it may be easier just to get a new one from napa or some place OPGI does sell them, here is one for a monte.. glad to help...

DLaz70OLDS98

Thanks for the help Eddie, it is always great to get assistance from other Olds. enthusiasts.

DLaz70OLDS98

I am about 98% done with all the rewiring of the engine compartment and under the dash. I have to finish running the wiring for the electric choke, run the battery cables, and Run the jumper from the junction block to the starter. I'm going to install the drivers side inner fender so that I can mount the battery tray and junction block. I wanted to know if anyone can advise me on what type of fasteners are used to mount the junction block, nuts and bolts or body bolts? After this is complete I will be finishing up the minor plumbing left. After that I think I will put some dynamat down and reinstall the interior. Stay tuned....

oldcutlass

Before you get too carried away on the fenders, have you checked your heater core yet? This is a good time to replace if neccessary as one of the fasteners is a biatch to get to once the front end is assembled.

DLaz70OLDS98

Thanks for the heads up Eric. I took it out and tested it before I buttoned up the blower motor.
Any insight on mounting the junction block?

oldcutlass

You talking about the horn relay? I think mine is held in with a sheet metal washer head screw on the fender well. I'm at work right and the car is in the garage as I took my sons car to make sure it was driving ok today. I can look in a couple of hours and let you know.

DLaz70OLDS98

Eric,
Yes the horn relay is what I am referring to. I just wanted to see if I had to use a bolt inserted from underneath the fender well and install the nut from above. I was being cautious about putting a pointed bolt down towards the tire. No worries on checking it out right thus minute. I appreciate the feed back.

Oldsmaniac

The horn relay is mounted with a sheet metal type hex head bolt/screw. They go from topside down. They are short and pretty much no chance of the tire hitting. They bite into the inner fender, dont overtighten...

Oldsmaniac

If your car is not a factory AC car it is a major hassle to change the heater fan. Is this is the case and the fan is not looking so new I strongly recommend replacement. Even with a test when they are cold some speeds will squeel, chatter and the like which may be hard to pinpoint on a bench test.

DLaz70OLDS98

Joe,
Thanks for the info on the screws that hold the horn relay in place.
Also appreciate the heads up on the blower motor. This is not an AC car and I did NOT bench test the motor. I know it was working when I first got the car but perhaps it would be wise of me to replace it now.
This sort of advise is greatly appreciated since no one likes takings parts off 2 and 3 times.
Thanks Joe!

oldcutlass

The horn relay is mounted as Joe Stated on my car also.

Oldsmaniac

No problem, I sorta know what to expect from these cars and what should be changed while apart. In 72 my pop had a 67 Cutlass 4dr, had the usual repairs. Then I got my 67 442 in 1976, then my pop got another 67. I drove my 66 Delta vert from 1973 thru 1985. Its time for more picts of the 67 project!

DLaz70OLDS98

This explains why your the 67 guru and why I value your input. I promise I'll get some more pictures soon. Nothing all that exciting has happened except fixing someone else's hack job electrical butchery under the dash.

Eddie Hansen

Keep at it Drew, I know what its like , doesnt seem like your making much progress but have to stick to the grind. ! Then wham seems like you make huge progress in an afternoon but it is all the little steps that leads to that afternnon of progress.

DLaz70OLDS98

So true Eddie! I'm gonna keep on keeping on this project. I am waiting for my inner fender seals to arrive, should be tomorrow. Then I can install the drivers side inner fender and battery tray.
Thanks again for the words of encouragement buddy!

oldcutlass

Like eating an elephant, one small bite at a time.

DLaz70OLDS98

Well my inner fender seals came in yesterday and I got them installed. I installed the core support today so that I could mount the drivers side inner fender and battery tray. It went pretty smooth except the new proportioning valve is right in the way where the horn relay mounts to the inner fender, DOOOOHHHHH. I need to spend a little more time on figuring out where and how I am going to mount the relay now. I also had to tighten up some brake lines and the power steering return line as I had some minor drips.


I finally decided on a carburetor for this project. I am going to pull the trigger on a 780 cfm Quick Fuel. I spent some time on the phone with one of the fellas from Quick Fuel last week and decided that this would be a good size for my build. Their customer service was fantastic. The gentlemen was very nice to deal with and super helpful. I will probably make this purchase in the next few weeks.


The next thing I really need to look at is a radiator. I have a 3 row standard radiator now but I am not sure that is going to do the trick at keeping this monster cool. I may just install this one for now and try it out and see how it does before I drop the loot for a 4 row or aluminum one.

Sea five

X2 on the horn relay. I used a different junction block for now not sure what to do with the horn relay yet

Oldsmaniac

Wait till the fenders are on and hood before you bolt on front bumper. This way you can adjust radiator support if need be. Once the bumper is on you cant access the nuts that are in the frame

I recommend a 4 row or 4 row equivalent, with aluminum they say they can get by with a 2 row or 3 row as will do what an old 4 row brass core will do.

DLaz70OLDS98

Thank you for the heads up on this Joe.


I was afraid someone would say this.....

Oldsmaniac

I bought a new 3 row brass for the 442. I get by with it but I am sorry I did not go for the 4 row. Since my build was stock appearing I went with the brass/copper core radiator.

DLaz70OLDS98

Thanks Joe this is very helpful. Guess I will be in the market for a new radiator.

ent72olds

You Jersey Boys really move right along! Must be something in the radioactive water over there! You all move like the Energizer Bunny....between Joe, Eddie and you Drew, you are all making me look bad! Keep up the positive progress Drew!

DLaz70OLDS98

Come on Erik, everyone knows you LI boys are on Island time!!!!LOL! Thanks for the encouragement!!!!

DLaz70OLDS98

It’s been slow going but I’ve made some headway.I installed a new 3 row aluminum radiator and new radiator seals.I had scored a repo fan shroud last year off of epay and got it mounted up.It fit very nicely.I think it should help to keep the engine nice and cool.I found a few minor leaks on the proportion valve so I took it apart and cleaned the connections and it seemed to do the trick.When I installed the driver’s side inner fender I found out that the proportioning valve interfered with the horn relay.I decided to fabricate a mounting bracket that offsets the horn relay.I was able to still utilize the original holes in the inner fender.I forgot to take some pictures, but I’ll make sure I do next time and post them.I am very close to getting the engine fired up, I need to finish installing the transmission cooler lines and the heater hoses and install the carb.Hopefully I can get everything wrapped up in the next month or so.Here are a few shots of the old girl as she presently sits.