Door Panel install - tips ??

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Old April 28th, 2013, 11:05 AM
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Door Panel install - tips ??

So I ordered OPG panels for a '67 Holiday basically to perform a door speaker delete. The last owner put big-ol speakers right under the window crank where you whack your knuckles into the speaker edge rolling the crank. Nice.

The panels are pretty complete but now in mock-up mode troubles have reared. First the buggers are too tall top to bottom where the fiber-board stuff needs trimming on a tapered line, 1 1/2" left side to about a 1/2" on the right.

Q1) It's a tricky cut so what's the best tool? Coping saw, Utility knife, Fein power tool? A jig-saw would be jumpy trying to control.

Next, the panel has a perforated punch where the window crank hole is supposed to be. The proper location is 3/4" above the perf so I need to re-cut the thing while not blowing out the perf.

Q2) Weapon of choice? Uni-bit step drill. A hole saw. Dremel rotary cut bit? Don't want to stress the perf chewing on the area.

Last, the lower carpet transition molding. The original strip was wiggly like a snake. I ordered an replacement and it's soft aluminum with clips that slide in a channel instead of the heavy original with fixed spikes.

Q3) Would you install the clips loose, slide the molding through and then roll over the spikes? Or attempt locating, drilling and installing with the clips pre-loaded into the channel one at a time? Got to pull this off without excessive force or hammering that will warp the aluminum strips.

And I thought this was going to be easy! Seems there are differences between Supreams, Holiday's, '66 or 67' panels? Perhaps there isn't any difference where those OPG guys goofed up the template just to annoy us?
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Old April 28th, 2013, 05:51 PM
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I've not done this yet, but am replying to move your post back to the top.

I vote for your last statement... that the template is wrong. I can't imagine the door handle holes being that far off The doors and location of window crank are the same between the different models. The only difference I can think of is between a post and hardtop car, but that should be a very big difference.

John


Originally Posted by White_Knuckles
So I ordered OPG panels for a '67 Holiday basically to perform a door speaker delete. The last owner put big-ol speakers right under the window crank where you whack your knuckles into the speaker edge rolling the crank. Nice.

The panels are pretty complete but now in mock-up mode troubles have reared. First the buggers are too tall top to bottom where the fiber-board stuff needs trimming on a tapered line, 1 1/2" left side to about a 1/2" on the right.

Q1) It's a tricky cut so what's the best tool? Coping saw, Utility knife, Fein power tool? A jig-saw would be jumpy trying to control.

Next, the panel has a perforated punch where the window crank hole is supposed to be. The proper location is 3/4" above the perf so I need to re-cut the thing while not blowing out the perf.

Q2) Weapon of choice? Uni-bit step drill. A hole saw. Dremel rotary cut bit? Don't want to stress the perf chewing on the area.

Last, the lower carpet transition molding. The original strip was wiggly like a snake. I ordered an replacement and it's soft aluminum with clips that slide in a channel instead of the heavy original with fixed spikes.

Q3) Would you install the clips loose, slide the molding through and then roll over the spikes? Or attempt locating, drilling and installing with the clips pre-loaded into the channel one at a time? Got to pull this off without excessive force or hammering that will warp the aluminum strips.

And I thought this was going to be easy! Seems there are differences between Supreams, Holiday's, '66 or 67' panels? Perhaps there isn't any difference where those OPG guys goofed up the template just to annoy us?
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Old April 28th, 2013, 06:18 PM
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If they're wrong why wouldn't you send them back? If I just paid that kind of money I'd expect they would fit.

Legendary put my lock holes in the wrong place. They called me before they shipped them, told me they f-ed them up, and made new ones and sent them out. They ended up being a couple weeks late but they fit perfect.
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Old April 29th, 2013, 10:52 PM
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Originally Posted by 2blu442
I've not done this yet, but am replying to move your post back to the top.

I vote for your last statement... that the template is wrong. I can't imagine the door handle holes being that far off The doors and location of window crank are the same between the different models. The only difference I can think of is between a post and hardtop car, but that should be a very big difference.

John
They're clearly mis-punched. The actual holes need to be higher and to the left as hung on the door. Glad I looked before cutting them. That would be an offset by 3/4" higher and a 1/2" more toward the hinge. There is no hole in the vinyl, just the "suggested" perf in the fiber-board. Really no big deal, I can safely cut to compensate the error. Funny, I read the same comment about Legendary panels that the window hole perfs were off and had to be tweaked. I'm not considering sending them back as these were on sale for $170 a pair around Christmas with free shipping. I just got around to installing 'em, let's say, slightly after the fact.

Break through. I have the same issue with the rear package tray where the moron installed 6X9 speakers that had to go. I ordered a new tray (OPG) that's made out of the same backing material. I thought it was sacrificial (as cheap) so yesterday, I went for the easy install. Again, no way it would fit as shipped. I had to trim the rear corners and remove material to allow inserting it into the metal window channel. The stuff cuts nice and predictably with a utility knife loaded with new blades. No drama or arterial bleeding. I used a metal straight edge as a guide and chopped through it clean and straight. Looks great and the speakers be gone.

The panels will get the same utility knife attack for triming. One of the challenges are the clip holes where the metal retainers need holes to slide the clips into. There are none in the new panel. These are tricky "U" shaped buggers that will be dandy fun to cut.

I think these parts are somewhat generic templates based on A-body cars. No shocker they need a little massaging to install. Perhaps Legendary stuff is better as they should be for the price spread - nearly 2X! I may document the fun and put up a lessons learned, follow-up post with pics if anyone is interested?

Last edited by White_Knuckles; April 29th, 2013 at 10:55 PM.
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Old April 30th, 2013, 05:08 AM
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I say send em back and get Legendary, I think OPGI uses PUI.
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Old April 30th, 2013, 07:06 PM
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Originally Posted by 501Paratrooper
I say send em back and get Legendary, I think OPGI uses PUI.

It's all about car crafting and hand work isn't it? Doh! Stupid suppliers.

I would like to know how complete the Legendary panels are? They are touted as premium. Can't tell much from their photos or description.
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Old May 9th, 2013, 06:14 PM
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I just put my legendary door panels on and I think they fit fine, my doors seem to slightly out of alignment though.

one question, how the heck do you get that clip back onto the window regulator? It came off pretty easy but I can't figure out how to get it back in place. any help would be appreciated?
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Old May 9th, 2013, 06:21 PM
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I got my 67 sport coupe panels from SMS in Oregon. The only problem I had was the slots for the factory push pin clips were in the wrong spots... I had to cut correct slots in cardboard backing then epoxy clips to that cause now the slots were too big.... It took some time. Handle and crank hoes were right on. The panels were not cheap and a LONG WAIT!
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Old May 9th, 2013, 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by wcourt3010
one question, how the heck do you get that clip back onto the window regulator? It came off pretty easy but I can't figure out how to get it back in place. any help would be appreciated?
Put the clip on the handle first and then push it on
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Old May 10th, 2013, 07:32 PM
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Those pesky "U" clips are evil. I was struggling to get one off the door handle. I know they make a tool that grabs them but I fiddled around with home made creations trying to hook that bugger for a 1/2 hour with no success. My son shows up and says "let me show you a trick". He wraps a rag around the handle gap and pulls straight down on the rag tail. It snags the clip and twangs it out of the groove. Took 5 seconds. The clip was tweaked but who cares, the handle fell off.

Blasted kids!

Preload 'em like the allyolds68 says and with a flat edge, like a slim metal ruler, poke 'em back down.
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Old May 13th, 2013, 09:30 AM
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Originally Posted by allyolds68
Put the clip on the handle first and then push it on

haha that was too easy. thanks for the tip.
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