I am bout to finish up my engine bay refresh. As the title implies it is all rattle can. I have been at this sine December cleaning the engine bay, rebuilding front end and suspension and replacing all the weather stripping and dying the interior and a lot of miscellaneous other parts replacement cleaning and reconditioning.

Can't wait to get back on the road, hopefully in the next 3 weeks.

 

i rattled caned several engine bays. if you use good auto spray paint it is just as good as a spray gun but without the adjustments of a gun. just takes time to learn how to use a rattle can good. your project looks great.

 

Looks good to me. I really like it.

 

Looks GREAT!!! What kind (brand) of paint was it??
Some us have little skills or equipment to do a real pro job (like me) and rattle cans can do great.

Proper cleaning, prep (priming), and reading (and following) the directions can make an easy rattle can job look almost pro. Of course quality of paint makes a huge difference.

I did some great jobs with the 99c wally world cans, but the stuff scratched easily.

Did you rattle the engine also?

 

Really nice job. Now it will suck every time a spec of dust gets on it. Ask me how I know

 

Ggood work, it shows that you have done a lot of cleaning a scrubbing first.

 

Nicely done.

 

looks great. Its easy to tell you spent a lot of cleaning and prep time before you painted thats more then half the battle.

 

Looks good! Prep is most of a quality paint job.

 

OK...1st, I love the color, contrasting, detailing on alt & brackets.
HATE THAT LOOP with the power steering pressure hose. Maybe use a 71-72 hose that goes low.
That is not really the oil pressure line is it?
Like to see it with finished steel fuel line, but will it go to that carburetor?
Hope you can at least find a fitting for the carb, that will NOT have a section of rubber hose.
Can we see it with the air cleaner on it???
Remove tin foil...
Good work
JMO
Jim

 

Man that looks good. Gives me some hope that mine can come looking so good.

CB

 

Thank you for all the comments. I used VHT satin roll bar and chassis paint on the frame and firewall. I did not like the care for the too flat satin so I scuffed it up wit a red scotch brite pad a shot a couple coats of Krylon semi flat rust tough. I was somewhat surprised as to how well the Krylon adhered to the roll bar paint making a really sound coating. The brackets power steering pump are VHT high temp gloss. I like the ceramic look with the only drawback is it chips easily when tightening down the bolts. May be someone has a better alternative but it still looks good with a little touch up. The engine is Bill Hirsch bronze and it took 3 coats.
Not shown are the inner fender wells which I did in SEM satin color coat as well as the fan shroud (shown) turned out perfect and you cannot scratch the stuff off.

I wanted to point out that the roll bar and chassis paint does not require a primer that was my main reason for using it. It saved the extra step of having to prime although the original paint was still pretty sound with only a few bare spots after sanding and prep which I did spot prime.

I spent pretty much 2 months cleaning and prep before painting. Engine was left in the frame and there was a lot of masking to do.

I like the idea of a less obtrusive power steering pressure hose and I am going to look into the different year application (good idea Warhead) I hope eventually to have a steel fuel line to the Edelbrock
which I find to be so far an impossible task. I refinished the original air cleaner which I carry in the trunk and use only for show as I run the open air cleaner while out banging gears.

I also redid the whole interior seat covers and door panels in Sem satin black "color coat" and it turned out great and is a sound finish. I also found a good product to use on the seat belts which were all faded. It is called JACQUARD textile color. I watered it down 20% and applied with a foam brush and it went on easily and stayed on. You do have to heat set it with an iron after it dries, it left the belts still soft a pliable.

Again thanks for the feedback and ideas. That is why this is a great forum for a legendary car.

 

Looking nice!

 

that was nice..i love it…I can compare you to a pro in terms of modifying oldsmobile parts..

 

You sure did a nice job on the clean-up and paint...makes me want to rush out and do the wife's car I noticed that the centre studded head bolt should be in the number two position and not number three...same on both sides doesn't really make any difference if you don't have air but thats the way they came just realized that you have both studs on the same side, s/b one on each side...I use a metal clip around the dipstick tube and on the header bolt to hold it steady...

 

It shows that you can do a good job on a limited budget , somewhat like myself. I have been doing the same to my 69-98 over the winter splitting my time between that and my brother's 52 chev. I need to finish up the wiring and put the trim and hood back on (need to find a couple people to help with that) and I will hopefully have it back on the road.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/wolfman98/ Here is the other car I have been splitting my time with. My brother lives on the opposite coast so he can't work on it. http://photobucket.com/wolfman98