Jhughes0

The purple wire on the starter solenoid does not go "hot" when I turn the key switch to "start". Does this car have a neutral safety switch at the base of the steering column ? Some of you say it does have a neutral safety sw. , others say it doesn't. Where can I get a free wiring diagram for this part of the car ?

MDchanic

I do not know these newer cars well, but I believe that it does.


Instead of taking a vote, why not look at the lower end of the column, top surface, and see?


As for wiring diagrams, no, there is no free one out there yet.
Why not just buy a manual for the car on eBay? This one has three volumes for $16.

It's good to have a manual.

- Eric

joe_padavano

Check your chassis service manual. You will find that this car does NOT use a NSS. GM stopped using the NSS in the late 1970s. There is a mechanical feature that prevents the lock cylinder in the steering column from rotating unless the steering column collar is in the PARK position.

Yes, there IS a switch at the base of the steering column. You will note that it does not have any purple wires on it. The switch is the park/neutral switch and it tells the ECU when the car is in PARK or NEUTRAL so the computer can adjust the idle speed accordingly. It also is the backup light switch.

If you plan to work on this car, spend the money on your own CSM. I got a complete set of 1985 Olds CSM, Electrical Troubleshooting Manual, and Update Manual for the RWD cars for $15 at a swap meet. You can find similar prices at ebay. Sorry, but people who ask for a free copy are really just asking someone else to pay for the manual, scan it in, and post it on line so they can get it for free.

roger55

Hey Joe, I've got a related question. I tried a PM to you but I don't think it sent.

I have a 1983 El Camino with a column shift tilt column and the mechanical neutral safety switch is not working. It will turn over and start with the shift lever in any gear.

Where is this mechanical interlock piece in the column. I would have to guess mine is broken. I have the factory service manual for this car and have been studying the exploded views of the column and can't find where the part is or what they call it. Also, will the part even be available to replace?

I could put a relay on the wire that goes to the ECM from the p/n switch on the bottom of the column and then cut the purple wire to the solenoid and connect to the relay. Would I be better off doing that instead of trying to fix the problem within the column?

Thanks,
Roger

roger55

I've gotten some information on another forum and although I'm not 100% sure, it appears the part I have broken is on the little cast piece attached to the ignition switch actuator rod:



Evidently, that little wedge shaped protrusion on the cast piece is what keeps the rod from moving all the way when the shift lever is in Park or Neutral.

Can you confirm this Joe?

joe_padavano

Yes, that's the only other option. Nice photo, by the way.

roger55

Thanks Joe!

I'm tied up for the next week so I won't tear it down until the following week. Plus, I would rather try to find a used piece rather than to buy the one from Steering Column Services. You can buy the whole rod with the cast piece for $71 or just buy the cast piece alone for $38. But, they say that installing the cast piece is very fragile procedure.

I still have the option of installing a relay controlled by the P/N switch wire that goes to the ECM. Really, I guess there's not a reason to do it that way.

Thanks again,
Roger

roger55

I found a fantastic write-up on these columns:

http://www.crankshaftcoalition.com/w...ck_Rebuild.pdf

Look on page 69 as it is clear how the lock-out works in the diagram on that page.
On mine, either the cast piece on end the rod or that slotted ledge inside the bowl is. I won't know which until I tear it down. Either way, a PO must have forced it to make one of those 2 things break.

roger55

I'm back from out of town and got time today to disassemble my column. The part broken was the one Joe said would be the most likely.





If anyone here is parting out one of these columns and would sell me this ignition rod, I'd sure be interested.

Thanks to all for the help on this.

roger55

What do 'ya think guys?
I think it will be as strong or stronger than new.

I blasted the area to clean and rough up, epoxied it with JB Weld and sanded it smooth. I filled the channel with epoxy for extra strength.

roger55

Btw, in this photo you can see exactly how this works.
The wedge shape on the rear of the cast piece attached to the end of the rod is blocked unless lined up at the arrows I put on the photo (when bowl rotates with the shifter).