Fuel gauge removal
December 8th, 2010, 05:27 AM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lafayette NJ
Posts: 76
Fuel gauge removal
Hi everyone,
Unfortunately, I have dicovered my fuel gauge problem is due to loose pins that the plug attaches to on my fuel gauge itself. I have an intemittent gauge/intemittent idiot light (in the fuel gauge head only) and I notice that if I hold pressure on the side of the plug, it all works fine.
A. Can anyone give me any tips/experiences/directions to remove the gauge? It doesn't look like fun.
B. I am in the market for a working gauge if you have one to sell (posted in parts wanted)
Thanks for your advice!
Unfortunately, I have dicovered my fuel gauge problem is due to loose pins that the plug attaches to on my fuel gauge itself. I have an intemittent gauge/intemittent idiot light (in the fuel gauge head only) and I notice that if I hold pressure on the side of the plug, it all works fine.
A. Can anyone give me any tips/experiences/directions to remove the gauge? It doesn't look like fun.
B. I am in the market for a working gauge if you have one to sell (posted in parts wanted)
Thanks for your advice!
December 8th, 2010, 01:50 PM
#2
71 cutlass convertible
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Trappe, MD
Posts: 2,018
It is easy(at least on my 71). It comes out from the front. 2 screws at the top that holds on the plate that goes around all the gauges, then 3 small hex head screws hold the gauge in.
Larry
Larry
December 8th, 2010, 02:29 PM
#3
InfoJunkie
Join Date: Oct 2010
Location: Belleville ON Canada
Posts: 287
December 8th, 2010, 03:34 PM
#4
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lafayette NJ
Posts: 76
December 8th, 2010, 05:00 PM
#5
Registered User
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: Southeast Michigan
Posts: 1,224
Save yourself a lot of time and hurt in the long run. Take out the driver's seat before you even start. That way you can lay down under the dash and look at what you are removing. I've taken my '68 dash out twice, this time I even removed my steering column (made it a ton easier) but you don't have to go to that extreme just for the fuel pod. Having the seat removed is the way to go.
December 8th, 2010, 07:45 PM
#6
Randy C.
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Albany, OR
Posts: 3,245
I had a similar problem, only with the speedo pod. I was able to remove the pod by slightly lowering the steering column and just carefully working in that tight space (used a trouble light for visibility) to unscrew the two screws that hold the pod in place, and then bringing the entire pod out through the front.
It's my understanding that someone real good at soldering can reconnect the loose pins on your printed circuit without ruining the circuit board.
Or, you might try what I did. If the gauge pod is like the speedo pod, the printed circuit board on the back of the pod should unscrew and come off the pod. Four of the pins were loose on my speedo pod - one was completely broken off. I went to a model airplane store and bought some very small (2mm) fine thread screws. The screws were just the right size that they would self thread and screw into the back sides of the loose pins (the pins are hollow) and snug the pins back to the circuit board. If you try the screws, just be very slow, very patient, and very deliberate. You don't want to mess anything up further by sliding a screw driver across the board, or anything like that. The items that worked either intermittently, or not at all, in my speedo pod were fully restored.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
It's my understanding that someone real good at soldering can reconnect the loose pins on your printed circuit without ruining the circuit board.
Or, you might try what I did. If the gauge pod is like the speedo pod, the printed circuit board on the back of the pod should unscrew and come off the pod. Four of the pins were loose on my speedo pod - one was completely broken off. I went to a model airplane store and bought some very small (2mm) fine thread screws. The screws were just the right size that they would self thread and screw into the back sides of the loose pins (the pins are hollow) and snug the pins back to the circuit board. If you try the screws, just be very slow, very patient, and very deliberate. You don't want to mess anything up further by sliding a screw driver across the board, or anything like that. The items that worked either intermittently, or not at all, in my speedo pod were fully restored.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
December 8th, 2010, 08:35 PM
#7
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lafayette NJ
Posts: 76
Save yourself a lot of time and hurt in the long run. Take out the driver's seat before you even start. That way you can lay down under the dash and look at what you are removing. I've taken my '68 dash out twice, this time I even removed my steering column (made it a ton easier) but you don't have to go to that extreme just for the fuel pod. Having the seat removed is the way to go.
Last edited by 68ragtop; December 8th, 2010 at 08:39 PM.
December 8th, 2010, 08:37 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Lafayette NJ
Posts: 76
I had a similar problem, only with the speedo pod. I was able to remove the pod by slightly lowering the steering column and just carefully working in that tight space (used a trouble light for visibility) to unscrew the two screws that hold the pod in place, and then bringing the entire pod out through the front.
It's my understanding that someone real good at soldering can reconnect the loose pins on your printed circuit without ruining the circuit board.
Or, you might try what I did. If the gauge pod is like the speedo pod, the printed circuit board on the back of the pod should unscrew and come off the pod. Four of the pins were loose on my speedo pod - one was completely broken off. I went to a model airplane store and bought some very small (2mm) fine thread screws. The screws were just the right size that they would self thread and screw into the back sides of the loose pins (the pins are hollow) and snug the pins back to the circuit board. If you try the screws, just be very slow, very patient, and very deliberate. You don't want to mess anything up further by sliding a screw driver across the board, or anything like that. The items that worked either intermittently, or not at all, in my speedo pod were fully restored.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
It's my understanding that someone real good at soldering can reconnect the loose pins on your printed circuit without ruining the circuit board.
Or, you might try what I did. If the gauge pod is like the speedo pod, the printed circuit board on the back of the pod should unscrew and come off the pod. Four of the pins were loose on my speedo pod - one was completely broken off. I went to a model airplane store and bought some very small (2mm) fine thread screws. The screws were just the right size that they would self thread and screw into the back sides of the loose pins (the pins are hollow) and snug the pins back to the circuit board. If you try the screws, just be very slow, very patient, and very deliberate. You don't want to mess anything up further by sliding a screw driver across the board, or anything like that. The items that worked either intermittently, or not at all, in my speedo pod were fully restored.
Hope this helps.
Randy C.
March 16th, 2012, 09:22 PM
#9
1968 Olds Cutlass S
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 428
Fuel Gauge Removal
So I should have read this thread earlier. I needed to take out my fuel gauge, however, I thought the gauge was to come out the back, and not the front. So I pulled it out the back, and now I see that there isn't room to pull it down below the dash. And by myself, I can't push it back in the hole and try to push it back out the front since my arms aren't long enough and I can't see what I'm doing since I am on my back on the floor. I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help me with a few items, and I'm hoping I can be on the floor under the dash and he can be in the front trying to line the gauge up properly so I can push it back through the hole in the dash, if this is at all possible. Do you think this will work? Or does anyone have another suggestion? Am I going to have to drop the steering column and try to take it out and down through the back of the dash?
March 17th, 2012, 12:09 PM
#10
1968 Olds Cutlass S
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Seattle, WA
Posts: 428
So I should have read this thread earlier. I needed to take out my fuel gauge, however, I thought the gauge was to come out the back, and not the front. So I pulled it out the back, and now I see that there isn't room to pull it down below the dash. And by myself, I can't push it back in the hole and try to push it back out the front since my arms aren't long enough and I can't see what I'm doing since I am on my back on the floor. I have a buddy coming over tomorrow to help me with a few items, and I'm hoping I can be on the floor under the dash and he can be in the front trying to line the gauge up properly so I can push it back through the hole in the dash, if this is at all possible. Do you think this will work? Or does anyone have another suggestion? Am I going to have to drop the steering column and try to take it out and down through the back of the dash?
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