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Old August 9th, 2009, 05:21 PM   #1 (permalink)
rhett838
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AMP/OIL/Temp gauge Question

I know I should put this in the electrical section, but I'm still locked out....

Anyway, I have an aftermarket (Suntime) AMP/OIL/Temp gauge hanging under my dash. I didn't put it there.

ONLY the oil gauge is responding. However, I'm more concerned with the temp here in TX. So, after further investigation I found the fuse behind the gauge was blown...I thought to myself what an easy fix, change the fuse and everything will work!

Well it didn't...I actually don't know if it didn't b/c my car wouldn't start. I took the new fuse out and the car started, connected the fuse while it was running and it died.

A: Why is it doing this?

B: How do I get the darn temp gauge connected?

I don't have a manual on this thing, so I don't know where to start...except here.

Thanks for your help!

BTW, I posted new pics of my car if you want to check it out.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 05:45 PM   #2 (permalink)
KevinG
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Welcome Rhett838
Don't know if I can help but here goes. Sounds like a wire is in the wrong place.
Most gauges I have seen have 3 wires, 1 to sending unit, 1 to a good ground, and
1 to a wire that your dimmer switch will work the light. I never saw one with a fuse
on the back.
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Old August 11th, 2009, 07:17 PM   #3 (permalink)
Bluevista
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Howdy,

Suntime? Are you sure? I've heard of Sun and Sunpro.
These are electrical gauges with wired sending units I take it?
If they're mechanical the gauge is probably shot or the metal line from the bulb in the intake manifold is broken, very easy to break.
Is the fuse inline on the hot wire to the gauge terminal and coming from a switched ignition source or actually on the gauge?

If they're Sun or Sunpro the factory instruction sheets can be found with the product description on the Summit Racing website. They're usually in a box with a few different language choices on the page upper right.

I would just start over and make sure everything is connected to the right place. Electrical troubleshooting can be a nightmare if you assume it was done right to begin with.

http://www.summitracing.com/

Last edited by Bluevista; August 11th, 2009 at 07:20 PM..
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Old August 12th, 2009, 06:37 AM   #4 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71
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It almost sounds like they connected this up to the negative coil side somehow!
Sounds stupid, but I have seen my share of crazy wiring. When i bought my car, a funky switch box was connected to the cigar lighter. I started the box on fire when I pushed the lighter in...


Anyway...
On your temp gauge, a wire should go to switched ignition 12V from under the dash (the fused one), ground to the nearest sheetmetal ground, a wire right to the sending unit, and a wire to the dimming dash lights.

Hope this helps.
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Old August 12th, 2009, 01:16 PM   #5 (permalink)
D Appeldorn
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It is so cavin say's their ar 3 wires ( and when it licht's up a few more)
one goes to the sender ( look at the back side of the gauge) S = Sending a + and a -

it's simpel to test conect the - to ground and s to sender and try a other + wire, you can also check it with a other batery. take it of check the conections and conect only the s wire to the sending unit and conect the wires to a other batery.

but stay allert when the +/ - are mixt up or have a shortage the wires gona feel hot.
(normal a fuse should blow)

if it would not work and the wiering on the gauge is correct it's proberly the sending unit.
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Old August 12th, 2009, 05:12 PM   #6 (permalink)
KevinG
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Hey rhett838,

I did forgot the main wire, the one for power. Make sure it is hooked
up in the right place in the fuse box.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 07:58 AM   #7 (permalink)
rhett838
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thank you all for your help. I had shoulder surgery recently so I haven't been able to respond.

The brand is SUNTUNE not Suntime...but with crazy fonts, you can see how I got that wrong.

I forgot to mention, when I replaced the fuse, the lights on the gauge came on, so I don't know if the fuse is for the lights, or for the gauge.

I"ll take a look at it this weekend, if my shoulder allows it.

Thanks again for everyone's help!
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Old August 13th, 2009, 09:22 AM   #8 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rhett838 View Post
thank you all for your help. I had shoulder surgery recently so I haven't been able to respond.
I"ll take a look at it this weekend, if my shoulder allows it.
Get well soon!
No crawling up under the dash until the doc allows it.
Surgery once is bad enough - been there done that.
Twice is worse, no matter how many happy-pills you get...
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1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!)
1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"
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Old August 13th, 2009, 12:32 PM   #9 (permalink)
rhett838
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Do you think it would be better to just get a new one and put it in right from scratch?
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Old August 13th, 2009, 12:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
rhett838
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My other problem is that I'm a mechanical novice. I need pictures and instructions or else my wiriing will blow up the car.
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Old August 13th, 2009, 01:45 PM   #11 (permalink)
Lady72nRob71
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It might be easier to start over and at least you should know all is accurate and working right. The good gauge kits should have pictures in the instructions.

If it is a Cutlass, just add a Rally Pac...
(Of course then it will not come with pictoral instructions... )
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1972 Cutlass Supreme Convertible (442 clone) -"Lady" (My mistress...)
http://www.flickr.com/photos/robsalbum/sets/
1986 Cutlass Supreme Coupe - "Pristine"
1978 Ford (Old Faithful) a.k.a. "the Tramp"
1997 Cadillac STS (for sale - too many cars!)
1999 Harley Davidson Sportster - "the Freedom Machine"
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