Re-Wiring a 65 98

[65olds98]

Hello, everybody!

I have a 1965 98 that I'm torn between keeping and selling. One of the problems is that while it seems to start and run great (you know, if the battery has a charge), the windows, seats, and radio (factory AM baby!) doesn't work. I haven't been paying enough attention to notice if all the gauges don't work or not.

So, I'm assuming either the wiring has finally gave up the ghost or some mice have been using them as a copper supplement. Either way, the seats don't move and windows don't go up and down which makes it not fun to drive in the summer.

I have little mechanical skills, but am hoping to get some experience. However, is rewiring a car with that many electrical bits (also has the clock in the dash, though only one speaker in the dash) something a total newb should attempt? If so, do I really need to purchase a new wiring harness or can I use the original one? And if this is over my head, anyone have any ideas of how it would cost to pay someone to do it?

Thanks for your input. And if you're interested in joining the land yacht set, let me know. I think it needs a better home than the one it has now and I'd love for it to go to someone who loves Olds.

[Olds64]

You might not need a new harness. It might be the power window motors, or the power seat motor/transmission. The condition of your wiring harness should determine whether or not your rewire your car.

[rocketraider]

Since neither are working I expect it's either the power window/seat relay (inside the car at extreme left of dash, behind the kickpanel) or the power accessory circuit breaker (on firewall underhood).

The radio output transistor has probably died. I'm told you can get a new transistor at Radio Shack or other electronic supply, but a radio guy is probably your best bet.

Either way, if you're going to tackle it yourself you need a set of 1965 Olds shop manuals. The Chassis manual has the main electrical wiring diagram (printed in color) and the Body manual will have the power accessory specific diagrams. They also have working drawings and diagrams to show where components are located on the car.

But no, I don't think it's beyond a noob's capabilities if the noob approaches it from a common sense standpoint instead of just going in cutting and hacking wires.

[Olds64]

If you decide to replace your wiring harness you might consider getting a Painless product. I have only hear positive things about their wiring harnesses.

[redoldsman]

You should be able to tell if the wiring has been butchered over the years. If it has not, I would start by disconnecting every electical connector one at a time and cleaning them with some electrical cleaner (try Radio Shack) and reconnecting them This includes the connection to the radio and other components. Do the same with all relays and switches. What happens a lot of times is they corrode and oxidize over time (after all, the car is 44 years old). Make sure you disconnect all grounds and clean them. Wire on these cars just doesn't sit there and go bad like the old fabric covered wire of the 30's and 40's did. I will bet some of your stuff will start working. Good luck and let us know how you are doing.

[65olds98]

Thanks for the responses! They're very encouraging.

Went through everything on the dash, and I think (hope might be a better word) that it might be localized to the in-door controls. The headlights worked, except on dim, so I think that might just be the headlights needing to replaced. Still no radio, so I'll definitely look into the resistor. But the heater, blinkers, in-dash light, windshield wipers and vacuum pump for the trunk all worked, so that makes me smile a little bit! Though, I didn't pay attention to the dash lights. Oops. And the clock never worked, so I'm not going to sweat that.

The reason I think it might be the in-door control is because the cigarette lighters in the arm rests are getting warm, but not the window controls. Does that reasoning make sense?

So, when I do scratch out the time to tear into the door panels, assuming the window motors and control panels are mostly just corroded, are these components that can be cleaned up and re-used or should they just be scrapped and replaced?

Thanks again!

[redoldsman]

The power windows are probably on a different circuit. If none of them are working, I am going to bet on a circuit breaker. It is not the kind of circuit breaker you reset but a thermal circuit breaker that resets itself. I don't know where it is located on this car but it is pretty easy to troubleshoot. It is not likely all for windows would go out due to connections in the doors.

[65olds98]

Originally Posted by redoldsman

The power windows are probably on a different circuit. If none of them are working, I am going to bet on a circuit breaker. It is not the kind of circuit breaker you reset but a thermal circuit breaker that resets itself. I don't know where it is located on this car but it is pretty easy to troubleshoot. It is not likely all for windows would go out due to connections in the doors.

Ahhh. See, I thought with the bad window seals that maybe enough moisture creeped in there and corroded everything up. But that makes waaaaaaaaaaaay more sense - if it were from that, then the cigarette lighters wouldn't work either.

Just to make sure I'm on the same page - you mean the cigarette lighter is on a thermal circuit, correct?

[aliensatemybuick]

First a question: are the popwer seat controls on your car on the door panel? (I'm thinking they may be on a Ninety-Eight). Just a thuoght, but perhaps the wiring through the door jamb is dried out / frayed. There is a gasket (looks like a rubber tube) from the cowl to the door through which the wiring goes on these cars, and over time, it dries out. I have seen where the wiring inside the protective gasket / tube also ages (either dries out or breaks due to the fatigue of repeated door opening / closing through the decades.

Even if the seat controls are not on the door, this COULD explain the power windows not working and is worth a look.

[65olds98]

ran out and checked - i do see the boot is worn and cracked open and can see wires - plus some copper. So definitely a place to start.

[Danny Wiseley]

Aliens beat me to it, but I was going to suggest checking the large red wire inside the boot between the door and jamb, also. Those things were giving lots of trouble by the late '60's, as flexing a 10 gauge wire that often is really hard on it. Good luck!
DW

[65olds98]

Okay, I know it's a matter of getting out there and doing it, and I know I should have paid more attention in 6th grade science, but, if it is the wires in the driver's side door that are shorting it out, are they on the same circuit on the individual door windows and would cause the rest of them not to work? I'm guessing yes, since the driver can roll up or down any window that a passenger has rolled down.

Thanks again for all the input and help. This went from being a nightmare to something I think I might just be able to handle (crosses fingers and knocks on wood).

[justinj]

Originally Posted by Olds64

If you decide to replace your wiring harness you might consider getting a Painless product. I have only hear positive things about their wiring harnesses.

I've heard the same, but they're pricey.

http://www.rebel-wire.com/ is the one that gets the best reviews over at the HAMB. Have dealt with them and they're super nice, straight up guys with a good product. And made in the USA, of course.

-Justin