'55 88

I have an extra one of these that I'm going to use in a custom build, and wondered if someone could help take the guess work out of what's hot, ground, etc. I've included a pic. of the back for reference.

P.S. It's a cluster for a 1955 Oldsmobile 88.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide!!!!!

citcapp

You need a motor manual. If your going to re-wire your car. Check out e-bay. Just type in 55 Olds and it will bring up everything they have for you ride. Look for manuals. It will be there. Buy one. And then we can help you. I have a 57 Olds I am fixing up. PM me with any questions you have and I will give you a hand.

Pat

'55 88

This isn't going in the Buick it's another car (Model A) that I'm working on.

hialeah56

Ground the frame and apply a positive to each wire then read what it turns on in the front of the cluster

johnfharding

See you guys next spring!

I think the only thing you would really need worry about is the voltage at the fuel and water temp guages as those wouldn't run off of full 12 V I would think there would be a resistor/rehostat or something that would tame down the 12 v gradually depending on fuel level and temp. Other than that I would suspect the rest of the unit would be lights and full 12v operation. That said get the manual. I got one on order now for 30 dollars off egay I mean bay.

88 coupe

They use the same 12 volts as the rest of the electrical system.

That "something" is the sending unit.

Full 12V to either gauge will "peg" the needle at the full/hot position, as it is supposed to do. If it does not, the polarity is reversed.

The ammeter uses does not use 12V as it is wired parallel to the circuit in order to show amperage, instead of voltage.

Dash lights, yes. 12V power goes into a rheostat, in the light switch. that controls the "brightness" of that system.

Turn signal, and high beam indicator lights, are three circuits, using only 12V.

For more, consult your Factory Service Manual.

Norm

'55 88

First, thanks for the information. So your saying that the wrong sending unit will peg the temp. gauge? This is whats happening to mine after the install. How can I confirm I do have the correct sending unit? Also, where's the best place to purchase one, if I don't?


Current wiring: One to 12v source, the other to the sending unit.

88 coupe

Not what I said.

Switch the wires on the contacts at the gauge.

Download the PDF Fusick catalog, and check page 41.

Norm

'55 88

Norm, Sorry to be a bother, but could you clarify what would cause the needle on the the temp. gauge to slowly peg at start up (and stay there)? What do I need to do to fix it? (Currently it IS getting the full 12V)

Omicron

Thread cleaned up. C'mon folks, please play nice.

88 coupe

Thanks Paul.


If 12V goes to the + side of the gauge and the - side is grounded, or if 12V goes to the - side, and the + side goes to the sending unit.

Change the polarity.

Or the power and sender connections.

Normally, if 12 volts passes through the circuit, the will needle peg at the top.
Like the rheostat, mentioned above, the sending unit raises and lowers the voltage as the temp rises and falls.

Low voltage = Low meter reading.
High voltage = high meter reading.

Norm