Seacar

Well after all the help I got earlier in the year for my oil canister leak, I still have a leak. Not much mind you, but enough that well.....who want's ANY kind of oil leak?

It occurred to me with the old school canister and bolt that the little gasket/washer between the bolt head and the canister may need to be replaced, mine was noticeably worn and that may be part of my problem in ensuring a good tight canister to block fit.

Has anyone taken one of these canisters apart? If so, I'd be appreciative of any help to figure it out. I think I need to try to replace that gasket/washer to see if it kills the leak, otherwise I may have to just suck it up and swap to the spin-on adapter.

redoldsman

It makes sense it could leak after 62 years. I replaced mine with a spin on adapter. For me it is a great improvement. I know from a previous thread that some people don't think so. It sure makes oil changes a lot easier.

Tedd Thompson

I just changed mine yesterday and for the first time in a long time I didn't have a leak. For me the problem starts with the gasket. Its hard to get it square(flat) in the canister body without getting a fish mouth and a leak. When I get a solid fit I try to use the old gasket on the next oil change. Usually never do that more than twice.

When you start to tighten the filter canister make sure it is supported (centered) so gravity doesn't' pull the bottom of the canister down and cause a leak at the top, There will be slop from the bolt till it begins to tighten its easy to miss this step.

Check your canister drain plug it may be loose or the gasket(I believe its copper) may have a crack or be buggered up sometimes this happens.

Lastly check the three bolts that hold the canister body to the block. The gasket may have gone bad there or the bolts could have loosened up. A little leak at any of these points will migrate around and its hard to find where its coming from..... Let us know how you come out on this problem and as Redoldsman said one can always convert to a twist off style filter and forget all this. I'm not sure if I'm to cheap or hard headed for not doing this swap years ago....Tedd

Seacar

Thanks for the responses, sorry for the delay in getting back. Since my last post I put the ol' car away to bed for the winter and except for monthly start-ups and then a quick drive for the gas last weekend, today was the first day I pulled the drain plug to change the oil again.

Now I do have the oil filter spin-on adapter kit, but I don't want to put it on until I sort out this issue. Its become a bit of a test for me to try and fix now. However, could you put on the spin-on kit and later take it off, or is it a forever sort of thing?

Anyhow, looking with fresh eyes at the canister again, I think the leak is partly due to the copper crush washer on the bolt head being......well crushed.

I think the whole assembly comes apart by splitting a little round piece inside the canister apart to pop everything out as indicated in the picture with the yellow arrow. Has anyone taken this apart or know how it would best be done? And if it can come apart, would you need a new split ring (?)?

Seacar

Well, I have some updates and learning's to share for anyone thats interested.

After my last post I ended up taking the canister cover into the boss mechanic at my shop asking him how to take it apart. He came back and answered that the units themselves were a lifetime thing and weren't meant to be fixed or replaced. He also noted that if I was having a leak from it, it would be happening around the seal, not the bolt head. He advised me to make sure that the whole body was properly aligned and that all the old gasket was removed...like we all know could open it up to leaks.

I put the new oil filter in the canister, after thoroughly oiling the cork gaskets on the filter, and installed the new gasket into the oil unit after scraping everything out of the channel (didn't look like anything came out).

Installed the canister again and (awkwardly) screwed it back on. Once it contacted to the body I made sure it was as centered as possible before tightening it. It occurred to me at this time that leaks could also be caused by the canister not being square to the oil filter body.....

Anyhow, once back on I put in 4.25 quarts of new oil and fired it up with butterflies.

9 minutes and 43 seconds from start to a smooth idle (it was a little cold here today) there was no leak. The older oil which had dripped onto the exhaust previously smoked and caused me some consternation as I made sure it wasn't from any new leaks. It seems to be good.

I assume that when you press the gas, more pressure pumps through the system, so I took it on a little road trip down the road and back. No leaking, still crossing my fingers.

Got home, parked and dropped some new cardboard under the engine. Checked an hour later, no leak spot.....

Tomorrow is the first big show of the season, planning to go even though its going to be a cold morning. Will see if there are any leaks on the cardboard.

Spin-on filter adapter still in package.....

Stay tuned....

Rocketowner

Sounds like You've got it made..Keeping it original is a good thing.Like the saying"They're only Original once". My '55 Still runs the canister filter and the "oil bath breather both". Good luck with the show. Larry

Seacar

Thanks Larry, I may have spoken too soon...dang-it!

Couple little splotches on the board this morning. After a drive over to the show I had a bit of a leak again.

Got to lick this problem before.....it.....kills....me

twintracks

You're not running synthetic oil are you? It is known to cause leaks, and will get by seals, and gaskets.

Tedd Thompson

X2. My car leaked badly when I tried synthetic oil. I believe that synthetic will find it's way through old style cork gasket material.

Though I hate it most all 50 era Oldsmobile's will have some kind of a oil leak, mine does and has from the time I rebuilt it...Tedd