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#1 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4
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U-joint removal
I have a 70 olds Cutlass Supreme convt. I recently had the TH350 rebuilt and I reinstalled last weekend. I bought new u-joints to replace them while I had the drive shaft out. However, I can't get the old u-joints off. They don't appear to be the originals nor do they have the "c" clip on the inside. I have some "plastic" tips on either side of the universal housing. Someone said that they used to melt plastic into the housings to hold the u-joints and the only way to get them out is to heat them with a torch and pound them out when the plastic melts. Anyone familiar with this?
Collin Totumfrog Johnson |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Seasoned beater pilot.
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Chicago
Posts: 1,574
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I too have heard that.
Supposedly you heat them till they "POP" then you can remove them somehow with a special tool. Doesn't sound safe, or fun. I leave u joints up to my driveline shop, however I went to junior high school with the guy, so I don't know what they will [u]really[/U]charge . Also there are different ones that you can re install. I went with greaseables. Here is a pic of the tool.
__________________
Last edited by J-(Chicago) : 12-12-2007 at 05:24 PM. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2007
Location: Northern VA
Posts: 1,686
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Quote:
__________________
Joe Padavano 64 Jetstar 88 Conv 66 442 L-69 Conv 68 W-30 69 H/O 69 442 70 W-30 72 442 84 Custom Cruiser 86 Caprice wagon (w/307 Olds) |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
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Yes a little heat makes the job a lot easier ,I if you dont have a torch & going to buy one get MAPP gas not propane,Alot more heat quicker Caution ! just heat until plastic flows
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#5 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Oct 2006
Posts: 167
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i recently had to replace the ujoint on my 65 olds. it had the melted plastic rings also. the only way i was able to get it out was with a small socket and a press. They are extremly difficult to get out without a press.
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#6 (permalink) |
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Junior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 4
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Thank you all. I think I might go to a local shop with drive shaft in hand and have them take them out. I don't have a big enough vise nor do I have a gas cylinder / torch etc. Good to know what I need to do though. Thanks again everyone!!!!
Collin Johnson |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Palm City, FL
Posts: 99
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Don't Go!
I just did mine 2 days ago and it's not rocket science.. I've done them for years the same way...
I use a torch and heat up the outer area around the plastic tip until it comes out like a snake. Do each one separately... Don't heat the boots too much or they may pop some hot grease around. Use a 3/4 inch socket to drive the ujoint out.. the method I use is: 1) set up support on something like a wood block leaving the ujoint cap able to be driven out to air. 2) Bang out one end (making sure there is no C clip (odd not to have one?)) until the furthest cap is out. I then reverse it and use a dowel or ratchet extension to drive the shaft back thru the other way to remove the other cap. I can't remember if the cap will continue on thru to clear removal if you just kept banging after the first cap was out. Sometimes the grease fitting can get in the way, so remove it to make sure... 3) It's better to use a lubricant like anti seize to help the install (apply to cap and hole). To install a new one sit the cap where it will be driven and bring the ujoint shaft in from below. This keeps the needle bearings in place while installing. You need to remove the other end cap too . When removing, do it in a twist motion to keep the pins from binding/falling. 4) Once the first cap is installed to proper depth using the 3/4 socket, rotate and get ready to do the other side. Set the cap and again bring the shaft up to seat in the hole to keep the needle bearings from popping out. 5) When that's in, put the c clips in place. Feel free to email if you have any questions. bradyjc@comcast.net |
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