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Old December 9th, 2011, 06:34 AM   #41
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Just spoke with AJ @ Southwest Speed, very knowledgeable dood, thought Id spread the word. He was explaining that the width of the ujoint end caps that go into the yoke compared to the end width of them would determine what yoke I need. All T400 yokes are 32 spline and seal widths are the same, period. I will be remeasuring everything tonight to get the precise measurements. 1 1/16" Ujoint end cap at a yoke cap-to-cap width measurement of 3 5/8"s would mean I have either a 1330 or 3R Olds joint as you guys might have mentioned already. This measurement can easily be confused with the 1 1/8" end cap which means I have a 1350 or possibly 1330special, not sure so dont quote me on that. I just gotta make 100% sure, if thats exactly what i have then he says If thats true, i would then have only 2 yoke arrangements/possibilities, a short 4.5" splined yoke and the long 6.25" splined yoke. Makes sense now. Only thing to do now is remove/press out the joints without damaging the needle bearings in the caps and measure... have a great day gentlemen!
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Old December 9th, 2011, 09:01 AM   #42
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That's why I save old sockets - big on the bottom, small to hit the cap through, and a BFH!!!
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Old December 9th, 2011, 11:03 AM   #43
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That's why I save old sockets - big on the bottom, small to hit the cap through, and a BFH!!!
I love the BFH!! However needle bearings dont...
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Old December 9th, 2011, 11:30 AM   #44
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Needle bearings aren't affected while driving out - and who cares, anyway - garbage!!
With the new ones, I always use more wheel bearing grease to hold them together!
Instructions would be rather long, you're better - off finding it on the net!

U-joints are a piece of cake compared to a manual trans - 2-3 different sizes on steps and you have to install a 10-12 inch shaft to the bottom!!!!!!!!
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Old December 9th, 2011, 07:18 PM   #45
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I hammered the end caps off with no issues, everything looks great, thanx!

Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:

I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.

The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.

Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)

This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??

Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
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Old December 9th, 2011, 10:04 PM   #46
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-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??

yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
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Old December 10th, 2011, 12:50 AM   #47
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-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??

yes, if I read the above correctly. If at ride height, the yoke is out of the trans enough that it could go in 1" more, it is good.
Thanx man!
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Old December 11th, 2011, 05:16 PM   #48
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What part of your driveline has a 1310 joint,that you need an adapter for? The 8.2" Chevy has an 1310,but not the BOP 8.2.That one also has the 3R,from all the ones I have seen.
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Old December 11th, 2011, 09:45 PM   #49
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What part of your driveline has a 1310 joint,that you need an adapter for? The 8.2" Chevy has an 1310,but not the BOP 8.2.That one also has the 3R,from all the ones I have seen.
It doesnt, dude at southwest only has 1310 yokes for sale, so Hes gonna sell me a 1310 to 3R conversion ujoint with it... Its just 30bux more, total$100 shipped...

More importantly, just looking for a second opinion... Do you think 1" of yoke compression is all that I need? I dont want the yoke to bottom on the output shaft splines during launch

End of the line (for splines that is) is at 1 1/4" of compression...
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Old December 12th, 2011, 06:34 AM   #50
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I don't like the small 1310 joints. They aren't real strong.
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Old December 12th, 2011, 05:09 PM   #51
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No reason to go with a 1310 now,if you don't have one already.Just get the yoke with the 3R joint specs.
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Old December 12th, 2011, 05:20 PM   #52
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No reason to go with a 1310 now,if you don't have one already.Just get the yoke with the 3R joint specs.
I really cannot find a 3R yoke thats 5.5" long from mid cap to end of yoke, dyou know of a company that sells em, so i wont need to get a conversion joint? Or if i do it wont be garbage like a 1310?
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Old December 12th, 2011, 05:49 PM   #53
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What power rating is the 1310 for? Im not running over 400hp plus its an automatic...
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Old December 12th, 2011, 09:02 PM   #54
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No reason to go with a 1310 now,if you don't have one already.Just get the yoke with the 3R joint specs.

Heres a 3R yoke, its 3/8" longer than what I have now, thats the only difference... Startin to feel like whats the point, why am I even changing the yoke???

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p108...rg_warner.html
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Old December 12th, 2011, 10:43 PM   #55
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I told you I have a yoke in my fourth response. It is similar to the one in your post (Denny's). Denny's seems to have a correct yoke and several choices of universal joints. A driveshaft is relatively simple, and several members and I have tried to help; this thread is now 55 posts long!
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Old December 13th, 2011, 03:48 AM   #56
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There was a local Pontiac guy that called me about the same style short yoke.I have another one,but I need to get back with him to see if he still needs it.The one that I ordered last year was just like this one,with a short barrel.
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Old December 13th, 2011, 11:43 AM   #57
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The used yoke I have has about the same measurements as Denny's. I got it in the 1970s from an Olds or Pontiac. You want to avoid the 1310 u joints because they were intended for Chevys with 200 HP, not your Olds which you said has 400 HP. Olds could have used the cheap, small Chevy u joint but instead made a better one (via Saginaw division).
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Old December 13th, 2011, 12:31 PM   #58
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Aj at southwest told me the 1310 he sells is made special and was tested to withstand 700hp
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Old December 13th, 2011, 08:30 PM   #59
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Maybe a ricer with 700 hp and 100 ft-lb, lol.
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Old December 13th, 2011, 09:31 PM   #60
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Maybe a ricer with 700 hp and 100 ft-lb, lol.
Can you please stop trying to sell me your used parts?!
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Old December 13th, 2011, 10:38 PM   #61
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I'm not trying to sell you anything. I use my spare yoke when I change transmissions so lube won't leak out of the tailhousing. I posted all these times trying to help you. I simply said that the one I got out of a car is like the one Denny's sells, so theirs is correct.
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Old December 14th, 2011, 03:54 AM   #62
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The yoke "might" handle that power,but the u-joint will not.
The original reason of this post was to get the correct driveshaft length,correct?
You swapped from one 8.2" 10-bolt to another 8.2" 10-bolt,correct?
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Old December 14th, 2011, 03:31 PM   #63
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The yoke "might" handle that power,but the u-joint will not.
The original reason of this post was to get the correct driveshaft length,correct?
You swapped from one 8.2" 10-bolt to another 8.2" 10-bolt,correct?
He said he sold over 450 yokes and 3r to 1310 conversion u-joints this year and did not hear of any broken ones. I could have just purchased the stock 3R yoke which would have been 3/8"s longer than the chopped one I have now but the one from southwest is 1/2" longer which would give me more power handling and more insurance against the yoke coming out of the trans. I believe the 68 buick gs even though its a 10bolt 8.2" rear still has a different length driveshaft or pinion shaft... Either way, if I have 1.25" of spline left on the output shaft when the yoke gets pushed in and all thats needed is 3/4" what could go wrong?
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Old December 14th, 2011, 04:52 PM   #64
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I'm not trying to sell you anything. I use my spare yoke when I change transmissions so lube won't leak out of the tailhousing. I posted all these times trying to help you. I simply said that the one I got out of a car is like the one Denny's sells, so theirs is correct.
My car is up on 4 jackstands so no worries about fluid leakin everywhere, either way thank you...
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Old December 15th, 2011, 04:14 AM   #65
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With the rear up,suspension under load,and the rear u-joint seated in the yoke,you currently have 1.25" of spline engagement,or are you able to pull the driveshaft back that far(1.25") to seat the rear joint into the yoke?
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Old December 15th, 2011, 06:37 AM   #66
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I hammered the end caps off with no issues, everything looks great, thanx!

Im getting a lot closer and really appreciate the help! Since ive got some better measurements I thought I'd share some info, these are more precise, they are as follows:

I measured 3.5" of spline on the output shaft of my T400 transmission.

The yoke and U-Joint I would like to purchase is A 3R to 1310 conversion joint with a 1310 yoke end.

Some official specs:
The Oldsmobile 3R joint has 1 1/8" end caps and gets pressed into a yoke that measures 3 5/8"s from outside of one cap to the other.

--------------------------------------------------------------------
-With my current CHOPPED YOKE I only have 3.5" of spline and the complete yoke measures 5" from middle of cap to the tip of the yoke.
-I measured 1.5" to 1.7" of compression clearance to bottoming on the splines of the output shaft (I hear 1" is all thats needed for compression/launch) is this correct??
-This yoke gives me 2" of spline engagement at ride height (was told you need 2.5"---3"??) is this correct?.
-Which means If I hit a pothole I would have 1.5" till the seal touches the tip of the yoke and 2" until total disengagement.

----------------------------------------------------------------------
-The new yoke has 4.5" of spline and 5.5" from mid cap to tip of yoke.
-This yoke would give me only 1.125" to 1.25" compression clearance before I bottom out on the output shaft splines, is this enough room??
-If I hit a pothole I would have 2" till the tip of the yoke touches the seal and 2.5" til total disengagement. (sounds better)

This new yoke obviously sounds like the better deal, questions are I think my compression measurement is getting cut VERY VERY close but my suspension droop will definitely be MUCH better, any thoughts??

Tomorrow I can/will check how much the yoke comes out of the seal at full suspension droop. If I had access to an alignment rack I would love to check compression of the yoke onto the output shaft by having 4 people sit on the trunk, this sounds too dangerous to do on jackstands right?!
An earlier post i made about this... BTW, Rund, this is post #66
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Old December 15th, 2011, 09:44 AM   #67
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So you have room for a little more yoke barrel.The one that you said is 3/8" longer than your existing chopped yoke,should be the correct one.
Your yoke won't get much farther out of the trans,when suspension is under load,but when the rear drops,or the body rises,then the yoke is pushing inward.
I looked at my short yoke last night,and the splines don't start until about 3/8"-1/2" down the barrel.That's an original GM piece.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 01:08 PM   #68
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Question

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You really have no choice, once you remove the stock yoke. As previously stated it is held in with plastic. You will have to melt it out, thus rendering the stock ujoint useless.
I am about to replace my Transmission Yoke (it has a groove in it - see attached).

It is original with plastic inside snap rings.

Is what you are suggesting that it can not really be replaced, but that the whole assembly needs to be, as a result of the plastic?
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Old April 15th, 2013, 01:14 PM   #69
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The yoke can be replaced, but before you can press or pound out the Ujoint caps you will need to burn out the plastic pins with a torch. Just heat the end on the driveshaft and the plastic will ooze out like one of those fireworks snakes we used to play with as kids.
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Old April 15th, 2013, 02:04 PM   #70
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Wow

WOW. What did you for get to put oil / fluid in the trans to the proper level? lol. Man that thing is gone! Woof
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Old April 15th, 2013, 02:09 PM   #71
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WOW. What did you for get to put oil / fluid in the trans to the proper level? lol. Man that thing is gone! Woof
hahaha.
maybe the person before me.
i recently bought the car...
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Old April 15th, 2013, 02:15 PM   #72
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The yoke can be replaced, but before you can press or pound out the Ujoint caps you will need to burn out the plastic pins with a torch. Just heat the end on the driveshaft and the plastic will ooze out like one of those fireworks snakes we used to play with as kids.
sounds like fun ;-)

but it also sounds like i am going to need to replace the ujoint anyway, so just need to detach from driveshaft and save the melting for another time.

is that correct?
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Old April 15th, 2013, 02:43 PM   #73
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You won't be able to reuse the yoke, and I would plan a new Ujoint as the one you have is original.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 05:48 AM   #74
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I would plan a new Ujoint as the one you have is original.
OK, Thank you. The ujoint seems to be easy enough to find.

The yoke, on the other hand, has 2 really close choices 5.4 inches or 5.46 inches.

Also, Inside Snap Ring or Outside Snap Ring.

From looking at the picture I took (and not seeing any rings on the outside) I am assuming it is the "Inside Snap Ring".

Can somebody help me confirm this?

if so, I think the part is Neapco N3R-3-6081X. Also sold by OPGI as this: http://www.opgi.com/p/transmission/3...0/CH26309.html

Click the image to open in full size.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 06:31 AM   #75
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An outside clip would be obvious, it's an inside clip.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 06:49 AM   #76
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Question Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way?

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Originally Posted by garys 68 View Post
An outside clip would be obvious, it's an inside clip.
One other note, measure the U joint width and cup diameter. They typically come in 3 sizes 1310, 1330, and 1350. Google to confirm which yours is and what yoke you'll need. Also note the U joints can be a combination of the sizes, so measure both dimensions.
Thanks garys 68.

Looks like I am going to purchase this one.

It comes with 2 recommendations for U-Joints (2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X). So I am confident they will match. Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way, or am I safe, since it matches the yoke?
.
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Old April 16th, 2013, 07:29 AM   #77
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The yoke and driveshaft U joint size are not necessarily the same size.
ie one pair of caps 1310, the caps 90 degrees off those 1330.
Google the dimensions of the 3 sizes, measure all the width across and cup diameters. Get the right stuff first time.
Everything you need to know.
Oops, the 3 numbers I gave are for outside clips u joints. The page below give the inside clip dimensions too.
http://www.driveshaftspecialist.com/...D%20Guide.html
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Thanks garys 68.

Looks like I am going to purchase this one.

It comes with 2 recommendations for U-Joints (2-3011 or spicer 5-3147X). So I am confident they will match. Do I need to be concerned if the U-Joint matches the driveshaft in any way, or am I safe, since it matches the yoke?
.

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Old April 22nd, 2013, 03:48 PM   #78
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Unhappy Which Yoke is Correct - or are they both?

I ordered a Yoke that was supposed to be a Neapco N3R-3-6081X.

What showed up was the same model number - but manufactured by AAM (American Axle & Manufacturing).

That is a bit sleazy, but real issue is that they are different - the one I ordered is pictured as having a smooth interior. The one that showed up has grooves in the holes where the u-joint will go, and small holes on both sides (assume for lubricating.

Which yoke is correct - or are they both?

First attachment is the one ordered. Second one is what the one I got looks like.
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Old April 22nd, 2013, 04:44 PM   #79
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Most Ujoints come with both inside and outside clips. The yokes in your pictures look like they use the inside clips.

Ok, what caused the nasty grove in your old yoke? This needs to be addressed or your new yoke will suffer the same fate.
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Old April 22nd, 2013, 05:25 PM   #80
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I did the same conversion turbo 400 to turbo 350 swap.
I bought a drive shaft complete with turbo 400 yoke.
The 350 yoke I ordered had an outside snap ring,unlike the stock GM type.
Also the 5 inch yoke was too short as the turbo 400 drive shaft is shorter than the turbo 350 version as the transmission is longer.
Make sure you have the longer yoke if doing this conversion,and buy your joints after you see which clips you need for the u joint.
They make 1310 /1330 joint with many different ring configurations.
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Driveshaft question ChrisM Drivetrain/Differentials 1 August 12th, 2008 02:22 PM


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