69 fuel gauge removal

69-Sguy · December 22nd, 2006, 07:47 PM

Anyone familiar with dash gauge removal? I haven't done it yet on my Cutlass but I need to repair my fuel gauge. Any specialty tools needed? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

ozoneblue · December 22nd, 2006, 09:12 PM

are you shure its the guage thats bad? If so ,on Bench test are mainly done with a OHM meeter you are testing for resistance .DO Not apply 12 v to this unit ,it will fry like a toaster pluged into 440 VOLTS , Larry

69oldsguy · December 22nd, 2006, 11:49 PM

I'm going to second what Ozone said. Are you sure your problem is the guage itself and not the sending unit in the tank? Since I don't know what your symptoms are, I'll assume your on the right track. Find a contortionist with small hands, long fingers and lots of patience. Seriously, they are a little trying to get at and it depends on how things have been moved around or what has been added under the dash in the last 37 years. There are two screws that hold the pods in at about the 4:30 and 7:30 positions. That and any electrical connections and the're out. Have fun.

Kevin

69-Sguy · December 23rd, 2006, 07:02 AM

Thanks guys. My problem is the pins in the back of the gauge are broken and I've got a new circuit board to replace it. I thought removal was easier then that, maybe even from the front with an escusion removal first. Oh well, under the dash I go.

2blu442 · December 23rd, 2006, 07:52 AM

I agree with 69oldsguy about being a contortionist, I think I wound up using a short open end wrench I'm pretty sure was 1/4 inch, but may have been 5/16. Once those screws are out I worked it out the front trying not to hang it up on the pad vinyl. If you don't have a Chassis Service Manul for your car yet you might consider it, they show up on ebay from about $25-75. It wouldn't have said you have to go in from the back, but I'm looking at a 1968 manul right now and there's a nice sketch showing where the mounting screws are. John

Olds 68S · April 28th, 2008, 06:40 PM

I am going to replace my fuel gauge in a 68 cutlass. Where are the screws located? I appreciate any help you can give

tarheeldoc · May 1st, 2008, 09:10 AM

I don't know if this helps, but here is a pic of what it looks like back there.

J-(Chicago) · May 1st, 2008, 09:43 AM

Man, that cluster is simple. You lucky dogs.

December 22nd, 2006, 07:47 PM	#1 (permalink)
69-Sguy Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 14	69 fuel gauge removal Anyone familiar with dash gauge removal? I haven't done it yet on my Cutlass but I need to repair my fuel gauge. Any specialty tools needed? Any help or tips would be greatly appreciated.

December 22nd, 2006, 09:12 PM	#2 (permalink)
ozoneblue Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Posts: 503	Fuel guage are you shure its the guage thats bad? If so ,on Bench test are mainly done with a OHM meeter you are testing for resistance .DO Not apply 12 v to this unit ,it will fry like a toaster pluged into 440 VOLTS , Larry __________________ OzoneBlue project cars for sale

December 22nd, 2006, 11:49 PM	#3 (permalink)
69oldsguy Registered User Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Wyoming Posts: 27	I'm going to second what Ozone said. Are you sure your problem is the guage itself and not the sending unit in the tank? Since I don't know what your symptoms are, I'll assume your on the right track. Find a contortionist with small hands, long fingers and lots of patience. Seriously, they are a little trying to get at and it depends on how things have been moved around or what has been added under the dash in the last 37 years. There are two screws that hold the pods in at about the 4:30 and 7:30 positions. That and any electrical connections and the're out. Have fun. Kevin __________________ 69 Cutlass S 350-2 TH350 Buckets - Console 52,000 original mi.

December 23rd, 2006, 07:02 AM	#4 (permalink)
69-Sguy Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Posts: 14	Fuel Gauge removal Thanks guys. My problem is the pins in the back of the gauge are broken and I've got a new circuit board to replace it. I thought removal was easier then that, maybe even from the front with an escusion removal first. Oh well, under the dash I go.

December 23rd, 2006, 07:52 AM	#5 (permalink)
2blu442 Moderator Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Medford, Oregon Posts: 2,256	I agree with 69oldsguy about being a contortionist, I think I wound up using a short open end wrench I'm pretty sure was 1/4 inch, but may have been 5/16. Once those screws are out I worked it out the front trying not to hang it up on the pad vinyl. If you don't have a Chassis Service Manul for your car yet you might consider it, they show up on ebay from about $25-75. It wouldn't have said you have to go in from the back, but I'm looking at a 1968 manul right now and there's a nice sketch showing where the mounting screws are. John __________________ 1964 Cutlass Factory 4spd 1965 442 4spd 1967 442 Auto 1967 Cutlass Convertible 1967 Cutlass four door daily driver 1968 442 Auto 1969 442 W30 Auto 1970 442 4spd 1971 Cutlass Flat Top Wagon 1973 Che*vy 3/4 Ton 454/TH400 Tow Vehicle Only the tow vehicle is finished!

April 28th, 2008, 06:40 PM	#6 (permalink)
Olds 68S MYOLDS 68S Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Roanoke, Virginia Posts: 4	68 cutlass fuel gauge I am going to replace my fuel gauge in a 68 cutlass. Where are the screws located? I appreciate any help you can give __________________ MyOlds 68S

May 1st, 2008, 09:43 AM	#8 (permalink)
J-(Chicago) Seasoned beater pilot. Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Chicago Posts: 2,696	Man, that cluster is simple. You lucky dogs. __________________ I'd rather have a numbers matching poker hand.

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