Front-End Kits

[Wilson05]

Anyone have any recommendations on a company to buy a front end kit from? I have a 1968 Cutlass that needs all the bushings replaced. Not sure how far to dig into it, but if I'm in there I might as well do it right. I found performancesuspension.com selling a kit for 280.00. Any suggestions guys.

[My442]

Be careful where you buy. A lot of those kits are cheap, foreign made junk.

I would go to ESPO (www.espo.com) and buy 100% American made parts.

[Lady72nRob71]

Moog makes some very good stock components like rubber bushings, rod ends, ball joints, and center links. I have used a whole set of them on my old ford 30K miles ago with no issues to date.
http://www.federal-mogul.com/en/Afte...ng-Suspension/
Moog parts are generally available at your local auto supply houses, RockAuto, or ESPO.
A few forum menders have had very good luck with these.

If you choose RA (recommended), here is a 5% discount code:
{Your RockAuto discount code 13826851150902 will expire on March 22, 2009}

Yes, do beware of the ~slightly~ cheaper chinesium parts! If you go through the big job of rebuilding a front end, do it right the first time and use good parts!

[wmachine]

Last fall, I bought a front end kit for the Jetstar 1 from Kanter. No missing pieces, everything fit the way it should. Good price, lifetime guarantee.
High recommendation!

[I8AF85]

I put this kit in my 68 and it increased handling alot more than I expected- plus I did the springs and shocks all way round so that helped.
http://http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-3788-...2-1964-88.aspx

[My442]

Originally Posted by I8AF85

I put this kit in my 68 and it increased handling alot more than I expected- plus I did the springs and shocks all way round so that helped.
http://http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-3788-...2-1964-88.aspx

PST and Kanter use foreign made junk.

I had two ball joint failures with PST stuff.

Buy MOOG or McQuay-Norris.

[I8AF85]

http://www.p-s-t.com/pc-3788-30-olds...2-1964-88.aspx
That might work- I figured if your going to tear into it might as well go the whole way.

[Olds64]

Moog makes top notch suspension products. Kanter is also a good company to shop with. Nothing I've bought from them was low quality.

[hamm36]

If the kit does not say a brand name it is cheap generic.
I went with Rock Auto.com for all my MOOG parts. If, Rob's discount code does not work when checking out. I goggled "discount codes for Rock Auto" and a website will come up with several codes - copy and paste them in the RA check out page until it gives you the 5% off. RA is fair on the shipping also.

[Wilson05]

I looked at Rock Auto and they seem to be pretty resonably priced. However, I know nothing about suspension, the reason why I was going to go with a complete kit. Just to aleviate the headache of trying to purchase everything seperately. Would you guys be able to give me a list of things I will need to purchase from them? I want to do it right the first time so I figure I am looking at between 200-300 dollars. Thanks for all the great info already. I love this forum!

[redoldsman]

This looks like a pretty good deal on ebay. I have it on my watchlist and am thinking about it for my 72 Cutlass. It says 71-72 but I thought it would include 68. They have an ebay store. The parts are McQuay-Norris and made in the USA. I have not purchased from this ebayer but his feedback is pretty good. Anybody bought from them please let us know. Here is the link:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...3AIT&viewitem=

[Wilson05]

I have seen his post before. I am having a hard time figuring out what exactly to buy. I've seen kits ranging from 180.00 all the way up to 400.00 and they seem to have the same parts in them. But for 180.00 do you take your chances?

[Lady72nRob71]

Originally Posted by Wilson05

I've seen kits ranging from 180.00 all the way up to 400.00 and they seem to have the same parts in them. But for 180.00 do you take your chances?

Yep... 250-300 seems right for a basic kit with good Moog parts. Other parts will increase the cost. A front end is a pain to do, so making it perform and last a long time is key.

Carl (HAMM36) did this last year and got all the moog parts from Rockauto. He was budget minded, so he did a lot of research before buying them. Hope he chimes in...

What do you need? Not sure exactly comes in every kit, but probably these:
Upper ball joints (2)
Lower ball joints (2)
Upper control arm bushings (4)
Lower control arm bushings (4)
Outer tie rod ends (2)
Inner tie rod ends (2)
Adjustment sleeves (2)
Idler arm (1)

These ~may~ need replacing while you have it apart:
Center link (1)
Pitman arm (1)
Sway bar end links (2 sets)
Sway bar front mounting bushings (2)

And the mightaswells while it is apart:
Springs(2)
Spring mounting pads (4)
Shocks (2)
Wheel bearing set and seals
POR15 chassiscoat black
Brake pads / shoes
Quick ratio steering box.......
Rag coupler.....................
Body mounts-----------------------------
--pull body off frame here--

-sorry...

[Wilson05]

Awesome! Thanks for that list. That should definitely get me in the right direction. On to that next question beings you threw it out there. How hard is it to remove the body from the chasis? This is definitely something I have been thinking about lately.

[hamm36]

Originally Posted by Lady72nRob71

What do you need? Not sure exactly comes in every kit, but probably these:
Upper ball joints (2)
Lower ball joints (2)
Upper control arm bushings (4) <<<< get the shaft kit. (don't waste time with just the bushings)
Lower control arm bushings (4) << check yours to make sure they are oval, or round.
Outer tie rod ends (2)
Inner tie rod ends (2)
Adjustment sleeves (2)
Idler arm (1)
Center link (1)
Pitman arm (1) << I did not see any reason to replace it.
Sway bar end links (2 sets) << mine were good, and easy at anytime.
Sway bar front mounting bushings (2)<< mine were good, ploy.

Springs(2)<< I used the old ones, everyone talks about cutting the new ones (not for me)
Spring mounting pads (4) << not on 72 front end - (2) in the back.
Shocks (2) << RA had good prices on close out. (Monrol)
Wheel bearing set and seals << had it apart went after market disk kit.
POR15 chassis coat black << make it all look new.

I just checked the packing slips did not come with prices, but you are not going to beat RA on prices for MOOG. My local O'rilies would not match prices. I think everything was under 400 encluding three shipping charges, for three different orders from RA. They were at least 25% cheaper then others.

Originally Posted by Wilson05

Awesome! Thanks for that list. That should definitely get me in the right direction. On to that next question beings you threw it out there. How hard is it to remove the body from the chassis? This is definitely something I have been thinking about lately.

Soak the bolts with Blaster, or Liquid Wrench for a couple days before starting. And be ready to buy new ones just in case they are shot.

[68Tom]

Originally Posted by Wilson05

On to that next question beings you threw it out there. How hard is it to remove the body from the chasis? This is definitely something I have been thinking about lately.

It can be really easy. It can be difficult. It all depends on how rusted your bolts are in the frame. If you have a good air compressor, it'll be a piece of cake with an air ratchet. However, as I said, if you have a bunch of rust, be careful you either a) don't break the bolt off in the mount or you'll be stuck cutting your floor to get the broken piece out, or b) don't break the mount off the body. The latter happened to me, as the body section around a few of my mounts was so rusted that the torque just snapped the metal around it. Fotunately, I had to scrap the entire car.
This might be alleviated if you really soak the bolts in some kind of rust inhibitor, although it'd be a problem getting it way up in the area it is most likely a problem

If you do a search for this topic, I asked what was better to use, a torque bar, or an air ratchet. Opinions seemed to be mixed.

However, once you're able to get the bolts loose, it's a piece of cake. Simply remove, and then proceed to lift the car up using various methods.

[bittersweet71]

How much new hardware will it take to replace the old bolts?

[My442]

GM stills sells the control arm bolts.