Changing Motor Mounts

[one4theroad]

I have a 69 cutlass with a 455 and need to change my engine mounts. They both look to be ripped/cracked very badly. At first I thought it was wheel hop but I think the engine is banging off the hood when I get on it. I'm guessing the trans mount needs to be replaced also.
I have a friend that owns a used car lot that specializes in muscle cars, hot rods, and pickups. He says bring it to the shop and we'll change them out. My concern is that he says we'll just put a jack under the harmonic balancer and lift the motor to change them. Is this ok to do? Am I just being paranoid about my precious motor? I do remember changing a Corvette motor mount years ago, with this same friend, in this manner, in his garage (home garage) many years ago. But heck, I know how he is. Everything he owns is for sale and is gone before you know it. I'm sure his wife and kids will be gone when the right price comes around! LOL I know he has lifts, cherry pickers and everything else automotive at his disposal so I was a little surprised at his intended method.
I have another gear head friend that says he would use wood blocks and lift the motor in a way that wouldn't put pressure on the harmonic balancer or pan.
Any thoughts as to the best way to change these? Thanks in advance for your input.

Once again I'm not sure of the best place to post so I'll let the mods move it wherever they think is most appropriate.

[Yellowstatue]

I wouldn't lift the engine on the harmonic balancer because the outer ring is bonded to the inner and it would damage that bond...use a chunk of 2X4 and lift the engine on the oil pan rail where the bolts are making sure that the wood is straight when the pressure is on... It might be easier if the wheel is off and go in to the block bolts over the control arm from the wheel area instead of over the fender

[Bluevista]

I agree not to lift it there for sure.

There is a jig shown in the service manual to lift the front of the engine to change the pan. It bolts on either side near the balancer and then there is a cross piece and a special jacking screw mechanism that hangs from the frame rails.
Before I decided to pull my engine I was changing the oil pan gasket and I made a similar jig with some heavy angle iron I bolted to the front and another piece going between them, jacked it with a floor jack there. I jammed 2x4's under each side between the block and the crossmember to hold it up securely and to keep if from rocking. I found a couple of sloppy bearings when I dropped the pan so I went and bought a cherry picker to yank the engine.

If the guy has a cherry picker why not just lift the engine up with that to change the motor mounts?
Still need wood blocks to support it or something, with your hands in there you don't want to take any chances no matter how you lift it.

[Oldsguy]

Originally Posted by Bluevista

...Still need wood blocks to support it or something, with your hands in there you don't want to take any chances no matter how you lift it.

Amen to that!

moved thread......

[joe_padavano]

I've done a number of motor mounts with simply a block of wood and a floor jack under the oil pan. I was also skeptical of the harmonic balancer as a jacking point until someone pointed out to me that the Chassis Service Manuals from the 1980s show this as an accepted method (at least on the lightweight 307s!). The problem with using the balancer is that jacking there puts you on the centerline and you actually want to tilt the motor to one side, hence using the oil pan - particularly if you jack on one side of the pan.

Your other problem is finding the correct BBO motor mounts for a 1969-1972 car - assuming your BBO used the factory 1969 frame and motor mounts. If the 455 was installed using the 350 mounts then there's no problem. Anchor 2261 is the correct mount in that application.

[joe_padavano]

I've done a number of motor mounts with simply a block of wood and a floor jack under the oil pan. I was also skeptical of the harmonic balancer as a jacking point until someone pointed out to me that the Chassis Service Manuals from the 1980s show this as an accepted method (at least on the lightweight 307s!). The problem with using the balancer is that jacking there puts you on the centerline and you actually want to tilt the motor to one side, hence using the oil pan - particularly if you jack on one side of the pan.

Your other problem is finding the correct BBO motor mounts for a 1969-1972 car - assuming your BBO used the factory 1969 frame and motor mounts. Right now they are only available from the Olds specialty vendors. If the 455 was installed using the 350 mounts then there's no problem. Anchor 2261 is the correct mount in that application.

[Nilsson]

I used a floor jack and length of 2x4 and lifted the side I was working on via the square flat pads on the engine block. This pad is the same that the engine vin is stamped into. These are under the #1 and # 2 cylinders.
Position the jack under the boss with the length of board standing straight up and positioning it under the aforementioned flat pads lightly raise the side you are working on remove bolts and continue raising until you can just work the mount out. This technique gives you good leverage left to right.

Now this was done on my 68 400 and nothing was in the way like the power steering pump brackets. Note sure on your 455 if this would be the case.

[70 cutlass s]

Engine host would be the best route, but using a floor jack and block of wood to support would be a good idea. To change the trans mount do it with the engine bolted in. Use the floor jack and block of wood a 1x6 would work for the trans lift it up to change the mount just be safe.

[therobski]

This link http://www.ucalgary.ca/~csimpson/Tech/Mounts.html is a good resource for motor mounts/ frame mounts especially when you change to a different engine size. Olds only site!