455Olds

Hey guys, I'm starting to dive into my latest project. The car is a 1970 442 Sports Coupe, factory black exterior, manual transmission, white vinyl bench interior, manual drum, manual steering. As you can see, this car was ordered with a fairly unique combination of options (or lack thereof), and as such I would like to restore the car to the "factory stripped" state it was in when it rolled off the line in New Jersey. Someone passed on a Chevelle, Nova, Camaro, etc. and decided they wanted big block Olds power but none of the creature comforts we all associate with Oldsmobile. My guess is that they also heard that the post cars were a bit lighter (any truth to this?) and therefore went with the Sports Coupe. My dream for the car is a stripped down, very low option, spartan, black 442 with steel wheels and poverty caps, "pie crust" slicks on the back, with a bench seat and four speed-- all business, like the original owner intended.

As of right now, I am debating sacrificing a little bit of peace of mind and safety in order to keep to the originality of the build. The car is manual drum all around. Normally, I'd convert to power disc and never look back, but the drum brakes add to the low-option part of the build for me.

I'd like to convert the car from manual drum to power drum initially, and get a feel for how the car stops. What I'm looking for is a correct part number and/or a source for a restoration-quality booster. I've searched on here and only got confused.

Do you guys think I'm thinking the right way on this? Would you stick with the drums in order to maintain originality on a unique car? I appreciate any help. I'll be starting my build thread soon.

Thanks!
Chris

Olds442redberet

I like the idea of keeping it all original. If you really want safe, I hear Saab has a good car. LOL. But if you want cool and unique, you already own it. IMO

suprememan

If your braking system is in good shape the manual drum brakes are fine.The car wan't stop any better with power drums. You just need to push a little harder. I have manual drums on my 70 big block Skylark and had power drums on my 72 Cutlass Supreme. Once I got used to the added pressure needed with the manual drums I prefer them.
Keep it original.

455Olds

Thank you guys for the compliments and opinions. I'm pretty well set on keeping the drum setup on this car. That being said, I would much prefer the pedal feel of a power assisted drum system. Can anyone help with the correct part numbers and a source? I would take a rebuilt or rebuildable OE booster, obviously. Thanks again!

455Olds

Any opinions out there on this?

http://www.opgi.com/cutlass/PBD6872/

455Olds

*crickets*

joe_padavano

The M/C uses the same bore for both manual and power drum brakes in your year, so if yours is in good shape, there's no reason to pay for another one. A GM booster is a GM booster. RockAuto sells a rebuilt booster for $60 ($80 if you don't have a core to return). Booster and M/C is $105 ($135 without core).

The more expensive OPGI unit doesn't have the Delco stamp either...

Fun71

I had front drum brakes back in the '90s and I really did not like driving that car in the rain - go through one puddle and no brakes!

455Olds

Thank you for your advice! I was hoping you'd eventually notice this thread and reply in here. You seem to be a wealth of knowledge about these cars and at 27 years old, I can use all the help I can get. I found the booster on Rockauto (A-1 CARDONE Part # 5471106). Will I need anything else for the installation? Is this pretty much a plug and play? Install the booster, change the mounting hole on the brake pedal, bleed and adjust and I'm good to go?

I remember that feeling from my first 1972 Cutlass S. It was power drum and you couldn't stop it for anything if the drums got wet. I was 17 and it was my first car. It taught me a lot about defensive driving and anticipating other driver's moves, in retrospect.

Fun71

I have often thought that new drivers should be put into a 40+ year old car for their first driving experiences (with an instructor, of course). This would allow them to "feel the road" and give them an appreciation for driving that they don't get in a car that is smooth, quiet, and comfortable at 80+ MPH on the highway. White knuckling a steering wheel in traffic and praying while you're standing on the brake pedal trying to stop in time really give you a lesson in how to drive safely!

joe_padavano

The only other thing is that you will need to rebend the lines to the M/C since it is now further from the firewall.

455Olds

Thank you for the heads up! I've read on here that some guys have enough slack to rebend their original lines and some need to run new lines and fittings. I guess it depends on the car? If I need new lines, is Inline Tube a good place to source new lines from M/C down?