power brake

[dragracer]

Hi, does any one know where to find parts or a complete power brake and a master cylinder for my olds 98 -64?

[Olds64]

Just give up. You should sell your car to me. Those parts are impossible to find.

Really though, check out these guys.

http://www.fusick.com/
http://www.kanter.com/

[Kaline]

My local Auto Value parts store stocks nearly brake components for my '64 Dynamic 88. What is not in stock they can get in 2-3 days. Call around, you would be surprised what is still readily available.

[rocketraider]

1964 big cars could have either a Moraine or Bendix braking system. Parts do not interchange. My experience is that chain parts stores can usually get the Bendix master cylinder, but not the Moraine.

EZ way to tell- Moraine MC has a bail-type cap and the booster is large, cad plated and has dimples. Bendix caps screw on, booster is smaller, smooth and usually painted black.

Kaline, on that other problem you're having, the check valve in the engine-to-booster vacuum line may have failed. If replacing the check valve doesn't help. your booster is shot.

[Kaline]

Rocketraider:

Thank for ID info. I do have an issue with the lack of interchangeability on my car. Based on your description and pictures in my GM Service manual, I have a Bendix power booster and a Moraine master cylinder. That is how my car was when I bought it (probably the source of the bad brake feel) and the new master cylinder I just installed is a rebuilt Moraine unit. I am going to get a rebuilt Bendix unit (hopefully a local auto parts store can get one quick) and install it. Hopefully then I'll be safely back on the road!

[Starfire61]

I'm not sure if you can have a Bendix booster & a Moraine master cylinder.

In '61-2 this is not possible: on those Bendix systems the m.c. piston is actuated by a pushrod that's part of the booster. On '61-2 Moraine systems, the piston itself is actually part of the booster, so when the m.c. is removed from the booster, the piston stays behind.

Replacement master cylinders may not resemble the original, so if your master doesn't look like a Bendix, that may not necessarily mean you don't have a Bendix brake system.

Perhaps compatibility was different by 1964- Rocketraider, what do you think?

[rocketraider]

It was, Chuck. I've run into this Bendix/Moraine thing plenty in years of fooling with 64s. They'll bolt right up either way, but...

The M/C to distribution block pipe is also different between them, and if you find one that shows signs of "adjustment" odds are the car's had the wrong M/C installed sometime in its past.

I also ran head-on into it on a 73 Delta 88 ragtop that had had its booster changed out way before I got the car.

Our Pontiac brethren suffer from the same issue. We had a hella time finding a correct M/C for my buddy's 64 GP.

[Kaline]

Rocketraider & Starfire 61:

My master cylinder to distribution block pipe was DEFINATELY "adjusted" when I bought the car. The brakes worked, but not well. I chalked it up to the car not being regularly driven on the road since 1989, and I figured the MC had been replaced before when I saw the tweaked line. I wonder if this master cylinder issue the reason the previous owner parked the car from 1989-2005? I bought it from another guy who owned it 2005-2007 and planned on fixing the car up, but never got around to it.

I asked my local Auto Value store for a Moraine unit, as this is what the car had. I did not look at the booster, as I did not know how to tell them apart. My error. Now at least I know how to tell the two booster apart!

For future reference, the A-1 Cardone part numbers for 1964s are:

10-49202 Moraine replacement
10-49204 Bendix replacement

FYI, Rock Auto lists both parts in their on-line catalog, so getting a replacement should not be a big deal. I also bought a new pipe for the MC to distribution block. No sense in using an old, bent up one! Thanks again to everyone for the help. I'll update you once I have it sorted out!

[Kaline]

Update: I installed a rebuilt Bendix master cylinder, bled the system and still have problems. The problem is the brake pedal "catches" at about 1/2 travel as you depress the pedal with the engine off, and when the engine running the brake booster pulls the pedal down 1/2 down (to approx. the same location as the catch), which activates the brake lights. Once the engine if off for 10 seconds or so, the booster bleeds off vacuum and the pedla returns to the full "up" position. All of this happens with or without the master cylinder installed. I also believe the pushrod from the booster to the master cylinder is extended too far, as the master cylinder was VERY hard to install and did preload the piston on the master cylinder. The vacuum line to the booster is OK. I am inclined to believe my booster has an internal problem and needs rebuilt. Recommondations anyone?

Dragracer, please see my post here about finding brake system parts for your 1964 Oldsmobile 98.