496
June 28th, 2013, 11:13 AM
#42
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That's correct and in the first pic on one of my posts you can see the bronze gear sized for the 1/2 inch shaft for the MSD distributor.
Today was mock up day but the gods did not shine upon me as expected. Seems I have to do a bit more massaging around the bolt head on the fuel pump and the first header tube on the right side is too close to the block for my liking. Not sure what path I'll take with that yet. The bolt is easy, the header not so much. I will prevail though.
Today was mock up day but the gods did not shine upon me as expected. Seems I have to do a bit more massaging around the bolt head on the fuel pump and the first header tube on the right side is too close to the block for my liking. Not sure what path I'll take with that yet. The bolt is easy, the header not so much. I will prevail though.
July 5th, 2013, 07:40 PM
#45
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I've been reading your thread,and I'm intrigued, it's a bit beyond my knowledge base but looks cool. I have a 65 442 with the 66 L69 induction. I see you had your intake extrude-honed, do you have any indication of flow before and after. I'm contemplating a lessor but similar build, I've a 400'E' which has been opened before, so I'm not sure what I'll find. I'd like to keep it at 4.060 or less, plan on using Edlebrock heads, want to keep the compression down to 9.5-10.25:1 so as to be able to run the lousy gas we can get on the street. I'm planning long trips visiting transportation (trains, cars, and airplanes) sites along the way. So I'm looking for a base line on the intake. The stock carbs are 290 cfm purportedly. I'm figuring that they can be improved but I also suspect that the intake is the defining component. Any input will be gratefully received.
July 5th, 2013, 07:52 PM
#46
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Sorry Old Olds Fan but I was never able to have the intake flowed before and after so I don't know the numbers. While I was at the ExtrudeHone facility I was told by the production manager that a Pontiac Tri-Power intake they had done picked up 32 hp after being processed. I might take that figure with a grain of salt but for what it's worth. A 10% increase in cfm is not uncommon according to them.
July 6th, 2013, 06:26 AM
#47
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Hay thanks anyway Trip. I was just really looking for the cfm on the stock intake because as I mentioned I'm guessing the intake will be the limiting component in my build. Once I get the engine apart I'll see if I can't get it rigged to a flow bench. If so I'll share the numbers with everyone. Thanks again for you answer.
July 7th, 2013, 05:27 PM
#48
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Trip what fuel pump is that? looks to be alot better than the Holley or carter, myu build right now is 468cid with a 850cfm carb and pretty large cam at least for Hydraulic and ported C heads, I always felt I didnt have enough fuel top end or in high gear.
July 8th, 2013, 10:28 AM
#51
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I never reached the water jacket Citcapp. I'm about 3/8 inch or less into the casting but never broke through. It was hard to tell but as best I can make out I'm still at least a 1/4 inch away from any water. I was looking through the water hole on the deck side of the head. These are not Edelbrock's so don't go by that.
The fuel pump head can be rotated in any position but you can see that I placed it with the flat side to the head which gave the most clearance. The top is pretty big, probably bigger than most. I really don't know how this works on other heads.
The fuel pump head can be rotated in any position but you can see that I placed it with the flat side to the head which gave the most clearance. The top is pretty big, probably bigger than most. I really don't know how this works on other heads.
Last edited by TripDeuces; July 8th, 2013 at 10:35 AM.
July 8th, 2013, 02:25 PM
#52
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I never reached the water jacket Citcapp. I'm about 3/8 inch or less into the casting but never broke through. It was hard to tell but as best I can make out I'm still at least a 1/4 inch away from any water. I was looking through the water hole on the deck side of the head. These are not Edelbrock's so don't go by that.
The fuel pump head can be rotated in any position but you can see that I placed it with the flat side to the head which gave the most clearance. The top is pretty big, probably bigger than most. I really don't know how this works on other heads.
The fuel pump head can be rotated in any position but you can see that I placed it with the flat side to the head which gave the most clearance. The top is pretty big, probably bigger than most. I really don't know how this works on other heads.
July 8th, 2013, 05:22 PM
#53
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Those are revised Bulldogs. They are old but I'll be using what I have.
I soaked everything in WD-40 today, it's been so humid here. Decided against using my gear drive so I'm just waiting on the new timing set to arrive to set the cam and slap the short block together.
I soaked everything in WD-40 today, it's been so humid here. Decided against using my gear drive so I'm just waiting on the new timing set to arrive to set the cam and slap the short block together.
Last edited by TripDeuces; July 8th, 2013 at 05:26 PM.
July 9th, 2013, 03:23 PM
#55
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I hear Wise Performance is making new sets of heads but they are under his name and nothing to do with Bulldog or FCR. Not sure if they work with stock intakes or not.
I used to live in Lynnwood so I know the area you are from. Big car nuts in that area.
http://wiseperformanceengineering.vp...m/default.html
I used to live in Lynnwood so I know the area you are from. Big car nuts in that area.
http://wiseperformanceengineering.vp...m/default.html
Last edited by TripDeuces; July 9th, 2013 at 03:25 PM.
July 15th, 2013, 07:31 PM
#56
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Since I'm waiting for the timing set to arrive I decided to massage the oil pan to clear the girdle. I needed to dimple it about 1/8 - 1/4 inch to get the pan to sit flat. I'll have pics soon.
On a good note the cam button came today.
It's surprising how these little things eat up time. Once I get the timing set it should go faster I hope. I'm thinking of firing this thing up on my engine cradle to at least break in the rings and check for any leaks before I set it in the chassis. Any tips or things to look for are appreciated.
On a good note the cam button came today.
It's surprising how these little things eat up time. Once I get the timing set it should go faster I hope. I'm thinking of firing this thing up on my engine cradle to at least break in the rings and check for any leaks before I set it in the chassis. Any tips or things to look for are appreciated.
July 16th, 2013, 05:10 AM
#57
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Fire it up and check for leaks and oil pressure but I wouldn't run it too long.
July 16th, 2013, 05:58 AM
#58
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http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
I have to agree Cutlassefi, and this article supports that. I guess it needs to go on a dyno, either engine or chassis to do it right.
I have to agree Cutlassefi, and this article supports that. I guess it needs to go on a dyno, either engine or chassis to do it right.
July 19th, 2013, 12:21 PM
#59
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Woot, cam degreed today. Ended up with 1 degree advance. Close enough for me, and that will account for any timing chain stretch, hehe.
Was going to take pics of the oil pan work but the battery needed recharging on the camera. I guess it didn't like the 100* temps. in the garage. Cripes it's hot. I think I lost five pounds putting the cam right. Next the pistons, rods and rings go in and we can finally call it a short block.
My dimpling of the oil pan is kinda crude looking but at least it clears the girdle. Once I paint it no one is going to notice but me anyway.
One question: BBO in a 66 A body. Which holes do I use for the engine mounts?
Was going to take pics of the oil pan work but the battery needed recharging on the camera. I guess it didn't like the 100* temps. in the garage. Cripes it's hot. I think I lost five pounds putting the cam right. Next the pistons, rods and rings go in and we can finally call it a short block.
My dimpling of the oil pan is kinda crude looking but at least it clears the girdle. Once I paint it no one is going to notice but me anyway.
One question: BBO in a 66 A body. Which holes do I use for the engine mounts?
July 19th, 2013, 01:16 PM
#60
Ben
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Woot, cam degreed today. Ended up with 1 degree advance. Close enough for me, and that will account for any timing chain stretch, hehe.
Was going to take pics of the oil pan work but the battery needed recharging on the camera. I guess it didn't like the 100* temps. in the garage. Cripes it's hot. I think I lost five pounds putting the cam right. Next the pistons, rods and rings go in and we can finally call it a short block.
My dimpling of the oil pan is kinda crude looking but at least it clears the girdle. Once I paint it no one is going to notice but me anyway.
One question: BBO in a 66 A body. Which holes do I use for the engine mounts?
Was going to take pics of the oil pan work but the battery needed recharging on the camera. I guess it didn't like the 100* temps. in the garage. Cripes it's hot. I think I lost five pounds putting the cam right. Next the pistons, rods and rings go in and we can finally call it a short block.
My dimpling of the oil pan is kinda crude looking but at least it clears the girdle. Once I paint it no one is going to notice but me anyway.
One question: BBO in a 66 A body. Which holes do I use for the engine mounts?
The headers look real nice!
August 3rd, 2013, 03:06 PM
#62
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Oil pump went on today. I added a bracket to the pick up just for good measure. Don't judge that welding job! Lol ARP studs to 40 lb/ft. Next will be the front cover and pan and then I'll start on the heads. I'm just taking the heads apart to verify everything and putting new seals in.
September 21st, 2013, 05:34 PM
#68
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New starter came today! My old RobbMc starter was just too big for the headers but this Powermaster 9510 fits like a glove. Oil pan and heads next. I know, I know, I'm old and slow.
September 21st, 2013, 06:18 PM
#69
Lt. Buzzkill (ret.)
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Gotta ask - I couldn't tell from the pics of the oil pan, but I did see a Canton box in one pic. You're not planning to use a Canton road-race style pan with side kick-out are you? If so, I'll tell you that I tried it and no way will it clear the 9510 starter or the ARH 2" headers. I ended up having a buddy who owns a fab shop cut off the kickout and weld a patch over the hole. He did a nice job, but that pan cost a lot to begin with & then I had to pay to have it modified. I would have been better off with a (cheaper) Moroso pan to start with.
September 21st, 2013, 07:09 PM
#70
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It is a Canton pan but not with the kick out. I've already test fit it with the starter installed. About 1/4 - 3/8 inch clearance to the pan. It's just a standard Canton oil pan. In fact if you go back a few posts you can see the pan and how I massaged it to clear the girdle.
September 21st, 2013, 08:01 PM
#72
hey buddie I hear you on that build it strong enough plus and call it a day and apply your time to other things and areas. I put my mondello 55 in and then detailed the engine compartment to show quality and now I have the best of both worlds and fully done also and now it is just upkeep and enjoyment.
October 2nd, 2013, 02:27 PM
#74
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Looks great!! I just finished my 496 build in March, reading this is bringing back some fun memories. One thing I want to point out is to test fit your oil dipstick if you have not already. I found that my girdle and windage tray both needed some massaging for the dipstick, especially when keeping angles in mind regarding headers. Yes, the dipstick tube needed some slight bending as well. Not sure if you are using a windage or not, but it still might be worth checking before you get much further. I also had to do some slight clearancing on my Melling HV oil pump for the girdle.
You may have already checked these things but thought I'd point them out just in case.
Have fun!
You may have already checked these things but thought I'd point them out just in case.
Have fun!
Last edited by TORTUS; October 2nd, 2013 at 02:54 PM.
October 8th, 2013, 08:49 AM
#77
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Balancer and flexplate done. I might use my accessory parts off the 330 if they fit? I also have stuff lying around all over not to mention a lot of unused parts I'll be needing to sell.
