EightballZ 455cui Rebuild
September 24th, 2013, 08:19 AM
#41
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Location: Montreal, QC
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I've bought AC DELCO Blue filters for my Cutlass for 5 years with Zero issues.
I can drive her for 4000KM and and oil is still crystal clean.
In fact i have a fram filter sitting on my bench at home, i just havn't been able to bring myself to use it.
I can drive her for 4000KM and and oil is still crystal clean.
In fact i have a fram filter sitting on my bench at home, i just havn't been able to bring myself to use it.
September 29th, 2013, 02:46 PM
#42
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here we go...i pulled the intake and heads yesterday...found some timing chain stuff in the oil pan (..as expected).
what do you guys think about the cylinder walls...rehone?
oh..and i guess i found the reason why the engine ran too hot...look at all the crud in the cooling system
what do you guys think about the cylinder walls...rehone?
oh..and i guess i found the reason why the engine ran too hot...look at all the crud in the cooling system
Last edited by EightballZ; September 29th, 2013 at 03:29 PM.
September 29th, 2013, 07:44 PM
#49
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Location: S.E. Louisiana, so far still in U.S.A.
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More good views
Your photos are good. The notch on the top (edge) of the piston confirms the compression ratio. To me it looks like an engine which had its oil changed properly, may have been running just a bit on the "rich" side, and needs something done for its cooling system passages. While you have it open, it would be good to measure the bore above and just below the ridge (at least longitudinally and transversely) if there is one, and check the head and block mating surfaces for trueness. Of course be vigilant for any irregularities. You don't need to do anything necessarily with the cylinder if there is nothing irregular. Having the engine out of the vehicle is a good opportunity to do work which would otherwise be difficult to access. If the cam's timing gear is original, it probably should be changed to an improved version. You can also check for valve stem/guide wear and assure valve and seat condition before reassembly. If I'm remembering correctly, the "E" heads just preceeded the switch to the heads which were intended to accommodate the unleaded fuel. I have however seen many of the older heads operate successfully on unleaded fuels. I've seen so much of your project, I feel like a participant. Please keep us posted. 
September 29th, 2013, 08:39 PM
#50
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Location: The Hudson Valley
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As the others have said, that looks like an unusually clean engine, with the exception of the coolant passages.
I wouldn't mess with it too much. As long as the cylinder bores aren't too worn, your compression was good, and you didn't blow any smoke, I'd leave well enough alone.
Those coolant passages need cleaning, and you should remember that the thickness of your new head gaskets will determine your new compression ratio.
- Eric
I wouldn't mess with it too much. As long as the cylinder bores aren't too worn, your compression was good, and you didn't blow any smoke, I'd leave well enough alone.
Those coolant passages need cleaning, and you should remember that the thickness of your new head gaskets will determine your new compression ratio.
- Eric
September 30th, 2013, 06:32 AM
#51
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Another thought
Here's an afterthought. You could remove that small amount of carbon from the tops of some of the pistons, just in case it had anything to do with the dieseling which you experienced. Try to keep it from getting in between the topside of the piston and the cylinder wall. Similarly, it would be good to clean up the area in the heads around the valves for the same reason. I know this may seem like basic good housekeeping, but I have seen some not do it.
September 30th, 2013, 07:06 AM
#52
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thx for your thoughts..
the plan is to mount a pair of these :
www.ebay.com/itm/BERNARD-MONDELLO-PROCOMP-OLDS-OLDSMOBILE-ALUMINUM-400-455-HEADS-PREMIUM-PKG-/270857613669
..new gaskets, bolts and screws, balancer, oil pump, new timing chain, new lifters, push-rods and new cam..maybe new converter with higher stall speed...that's it
don't plan to disassemble the bottom end
the plan is to mount a pair of these :
www.ebay.com/itm/BERNARD-MONDELLO-PROCOMP-OLDS-OLDSMOBILE-ALUMINUM-400-455-HEADS-PREMIUM-PKG-/270857613669
..new gaskets, bolts and screws, balancer, oil pump, new timing chain, new lifters, push-rods and new cam..maybe new converter with higher stall speed...that's it
don't plan to disassemble the bottom end
Last edited by EightballZ; September 30th, 2013 at 07:51 AM.
October 2nd, 2013, 12:54 AM
#53
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any ideas how to clean the coolant passages?
i guess its easier to do this when heads and intake are on the engine...complete flush
my radiator is brand new and i don't want to hook it up until that cooling system is free of crud...same for the ebrock heads.
i guess its easier to do this when heads and intake are on the engine...complete flush
my radiator is brand new and i don't want to hook it up until that cooling system is free of crud...same for the ebrock heads.
October 2nd, 2013, 03:47 AM
#54
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I don't know what the "right" way is to clean the coolant passages, other than to disassemble the block and have it boiled, but I have removed the heads, rotated the block 45°, so that one head surface is horizontal, used a heavy-duty industrial tape (solvent-resistant, used for silk-screens) to cover and seal the water pump flange to that bank, then filled up that side's coolant passages with concentrated hydrochloric acid {"swimming pool acid") and let it sit.
If you do this a few times, i should come out very clean, then rinse well with water, then do the same on the other side.
If you do this, you have to make absolutely certain that you don't get any acid in the cylinder bores, on the camshaft, or any of the bearings.
Like I said, not the "right" way, but it has worked for me.
- Eric
If you do this a few times, i should come out very clean, then rinse well with water, then do the same on the other side.
If you do this, you have to make absolutely certain that you don't get any acid in the cylinder bores, on the camshaft, or any of the bearings.
Like I said, not the "right" way, but it has worked for me.
- Eric
October 20th, 2013, 10:01 AM
#61
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I'd say it's time for a new sprocket.
Though I guess you could get a few more kilometers out of that one
.
Those bearings look really nice to me, but the true question is what they feel like and how they measure.
- Eric
Though I guess you could get a few more kilometers out of that one
.Those bearings look really nice to me, but the true question is what they feel like and how they measure.
- Eric
October 20th, 2013, 10:08 AM
#64
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Are you sure that that's a crack and not a casting defect?
If it's a crack, it should be weldable with MIG or TIG. I've done it, and I don't know what I'm doing.
Those rod bearing shells look more corroded than worn, and it's on the bottom (no-load) side, too.
Did this car sit somewhere for a long time?
I wonder what others think of those bearings.
- Eric
If it's a crack, it should be weldable with MIG or TIG. I've done it, and I don't know what I'm doing.
Those rod bearing shells look more corroded than worn, and it's on the bottom (no-load) side, too.
Did this car sit somewhere for a long time?
I wonder what others think of those bearings.
- Eric
October 20th, 2013, 10:17 AM
#66
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Easy enough to weld.
How do those lower rod bearing shells feel? Are those little pits in the metal, or are they something else, like little bits of embedded metal?
Do the upper shells have the same pattern, or not?
Are the bearings worn, as though material was wiped or smeared away?
Any scratches or scoring?
How do the rod journals on the crank look?
- Eric
How do those lower rod bearing shells feel? Are those little pits in the metal, or are they something else, like little bits of embedded metal?
Do the upper shells have the same pattern, or not?
Are the bearings worn, as though material was wiped or smeared away?
Any scratches or scoring?
How do the rod journals on the crank look?
- Eric
October 20th, 2013, 10:47 AM
#67
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Join Date: Dec 2011
Posts: 7,286
here we go...i pulled the intake and heads yesterday...found some timing chain stuff in the oil pan (..as expected).
what do you guys think about the cylinder walls...rehone?
oh..and i guess i found the reason why the engine ran too hot...look at all the crud in the cooling system
what do you guys think about the cylinder walls...rehone?
oh..and i guess i found the reason why the engine ran too hot...look at all the crud in the cooling system
Am I the only one that sees a wiped cam lobe in photo #5 of post #42 there?
I saved the "giving the engine the finger" photo, who among us has not felt like that at some point?
October 20th, 2013, 12:34 PM
#69
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Easy enough to weld.
How do those lower rod bearing shells feel? Are those little pits in the metal, or are they something else, like little bits of embedded metal?
Do the upper shells have the same pattern, or not?
Are the bearings worn, as though material was wiped or smeared away?
Any scratches or scoring?
How do the rod journals on the crank look?
- Eric
How do those lower rod bearing shells feel? Are those little pits in the metal, or are they something else, like little bits of embedded metal?
Do the upper shells have the same pattern, or not?
Are the bearings worn, as though material was wiped or smeared away?
Any scratches or scoring?
How do the rod journals on the crank look?
- Eric
..gonna let the engine shop do the measure-work, so they will tell me if the crank needs grinding..anyway..i'll use new bearings, rods and pistons
Last edited by EightballZ; October 20th, 2013 at 12:46 PM.
October 20th, 2013, 04:55 PM
#72
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Location: Palm Bay, FL
Posts: 4,249
October 28th, 2013, 02:04 AM
#77
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Location: Germany
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engine is going to the machine shop today...here's the plan:
- cleaning and inspection
- taking measurements for boresize
- bore / hone
- install new bearings for crankshaft and camshaft
- install new oversize pistons and rings + connecting rods
- polish or grind crankshaft (whatever the measurements say)
- install crankshaft
- balance rotating assembly
any thoughts on this?
- cleaning and inspection
- taking measurements for boresize
- bore / hone
- install new bearings for crankshaft and camshaft
- install new oversize pistons and rings + connecting rods
- polish or grind crankshaft (whatever the measurements say)
- install crankshaft
- balance rotating assembly
any thoughts on this?
October 28th, 2013, 05:38 AM
#78
morgan
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: CT
Posts: 1,925
engine is going to the machine shop today...here's the plan:
- cleaning and inspection
- taking measurements for boresize
- bore / hone
- install new bearings for crankshaft and camshaft
- install new oversize pistons and rings + connecting rods
- polish or grind crankshaft (whatever the measurements say)
- install crankshaft
- balance rotating assembly
any thoughts on this?
- cleaning and inspection
- taking measurements for boresize
- bore / hone
- install new bearings for crankshaft and camshaft
- install new oversize pistons and rings + connecting rods
- polish or grind crankshaft (whatever the measurements say)
- install crankshaft
- balance rotating assembly
any thoughts on this?
October 28th, 2013, 09:15 AM
#79
Connoisseur d'Junque
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: The Hudson Valley
Posts: 21,183
