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Ok.....so heres what you can do: It is possible your machinist can cut the number 2 3 4 and 5 cap slightly in the cap cutter to tighten the housing bore bringing your bearing clearance down to where you want it. It can be done, but it must be done with the utmost care. You possibly could use a surface plate and sand paper as well. In your case I prefer the second option myself. You can make this work.
Thats a half *** way of doing it. Plus alignment MAY be further compromised. He needs to have them redo it. He’s already had enough problems.
And I already mentioned about the dial bore possibly digging into the bearing a few posts ago. I guess you missed that too.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by cutlassefi
Thats a half *** way of doing it. Plus alignment MAY be further compromised. He needs to have them redo it. He’s already had enough problems.
And I already mentioned about the dial bore possibly digging into the bearing a few posts ago. I guess you missed that too.
I did miss that.
I've seen people successfully pull this off, alignment would be compromised, but it could be better than taking it back to the original shop. Your going to know how the crank turns in the block, he's got nothing to lose.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; January 29th, 2020 at 06:01 AM.
Ok.....so heres what you can do: It is possible your machinist can cut the number 2 3 4 and 5 cap slightly in the cap cutter to tighten the housing bore bringing your bearing clearance down to where you want it. It can be done, but it must be done with the utmost care. You possibly could use a surface plate and sand paper as well. In your case I prefer the second option myself. You can make this work.
VelcroPro, what is a"cap cutter" ?
So, you would sand the caps on a surface plate with sandpaper ?
1. How do you calibrate the sandpaper ?
2. What grit size sandpaper do you use ?
3. Do you sand in a "figure 8" pattern ?
4 sand in a straight line pattern ?
4A. Do you sand paralell to crank center line ?
4B. Do you sand perpendicular to crank center line ?
4C. Do you sand in an "X" pattern ?
5. How do you control keeping the material removed paralell to the original surface ? You do know this could affect crankshaft thrust measurments ?
Originally Posted by VORTECPRO
I did miss that.
I've seen people successfully pull this off, alignment would be compromised, but it could be better than taking it back to the original shop. Your going to know how the crank turns in the block, he's got nothing to lose.
So, you have never "successfully pulled this off" ?
ARP studs definitely better than bolts. If you are under 400HP and below 6,000 RPM, then factory caps are OK but anything higher HP, requires better bottom end parts.The Olds 455 bottom end was poorly engineered from the factory. Most modern engine bottom ends feature 4 and even 6 bolt splayed caps with stronger webbing and tie in to prevent the cap from moving. Which can support 1,000+ HP. Sadly, a 2 bolt main like the 455 is a flawed design.
The main bearings will continue to see premature wear if the bottom end is not properly set up and engineered. Know the limits of a stock bottom end and if you are increasing HP, then you must get better bottom end parts. Otherwise, failure will occur.
Anything over 600HP should have a girdle. Otherwise, seasonal tear downs and bearing replacement will be a maintenance item.
Last edited by pettrix; January 29th, 2020 at 12:55 PM.
Just got my heads back. They cc'd out at 81.5, had a TON of grinding done on the ports, have a fresh valve job with new REV valves and Isky springs. They should be an upgrade from the C heads for sure.
A guy by the name of Charlie Hemphill. He’s been around racing a while. He used to drag race against the likes of Sox and Martin and did engine work for Rick Hendrick years ago. Knows his stuff.
A guy by the name of Charlie Hemphill. He’s been around racing a while. He used to drag race against the likes of Sox and Martin and did engine work for Rick Hendrick years ago. Knows his stuff.
He did not. He does not have a bench right there at his shop. I may take them to a guy who does just to see what they flow at. He did my C heads as well and I was pretty happy with them. He cleaned these Speedmasters up real nice and installed quality valves, springs, etc. All told, from buying the bare castings to the finished product these cost me $1360.00....a bargain in my book for a pair of these heads. (He only charged me cost on the parts he added though, so normally they would be more)
I have a 222/228@.050 on a 110 roller coming for another build but I could send this to you instead. Lift is .544 on both. If you’re looking for a match to the TQ40 this would be really close.
Mark, do you have all the specs for this cam? I think this is the direction I would like to go with it. What do I need to do to get one on the way?
I got the crank clearances correct...finally. I had to go with an 0.001" oversized bearing set. When the machine shop cleaned up the crank from the first go round, he ended up taking a bit more off. I ended up going with the MS804H-1 bearings.
What are you going to do about the saddles that’s we’re big?
I spent some uninterrupted time meticulously remeasuring the crank bores. I set the mic to 3.1880” and set my bore gage to that. Here are the measurements
#1. 3.1885
#2. 3.1902
#3. 3.1889
#4. 3.1887
#5. 3.1901
2&5 are out of spec within the margin of error. When I first did these measurements I did not spend the time I should on them. The clearance for 1-4 are at 0.003” and 5 is at 0.0037.
I spent some uninterrupted time meticulously remeasuring the crank bores. I set the mic to 3.1880” and set my bore gage to that. Here are the measurements
#1. 3.1885
#2. 3.1902
#3. 3.1889
#4. 3.1887
#5. 3.1901
2&5 are out of spec within the margin of error. When I first did these measurements I did not spend the time I should on them. The clearance for 1-4 are at 0.003” and 5 is at 0.0037.
No they’re not, 2&5 are over spec by more than .001. That effects bearing crush. Not sure why you would move forward with this based on your initial experience but it’s obviously your call. Best of luck.
No they’re not, 2&5 are over spec by more than .001. That effects bearing crush. Not sure why you would move forward with this based on your initial experience but it’s obviously your call. Best of luck.
They are out by 0.0001” & 0.0002” respectively. The gage reads in increments of 0.0005”. The effect on crush should be negligible based on the fact that it is so small and certainly within the margin of error. I considered buying a set of MS 804 H and mixing select shells, but clearance was right on the money.
They are out by 0.0001” & 0.0002” respectively. The gage reads in increments of 0.0005”. The effect on crush should be negligible based on the fact that it is so small and certainly within the margin of error. I considered buying a set of MS 804 H and mixing select shells, but clearance was right on the money.
The spec is 3.188-3.189. Based on your info you’re over .001 out.
Last edited by cutlassefi; February 9th, 2020 at 04:26 PM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by cutlassefi
No, that’s not what you said. What you suggested was “sanding the caps”. That’s a crap way of fixing the problem.
It should be totally redone, period.
I said "he" could sand the caps, I myself would use the available equipment in my shop, which includes a Sunnen cap grinder and Sunnen dial bore guages, and a Sunnen line hone Example above. But again the line hone should be redone by a competent shop, and the bearing clearance should also be set by the same competent shop as well.
Last edited by VORTECPRO; February 9th, 2020 at 06:14 PM.
No they’re not, 2&5 are over spec by more than .001. That effects bearing crush. Not sure why you would move forward with this based on your initial experience but it’s obviously your call. Best of luck.
Sorry. I was typing on my phone and entered it wrong. They are 3.1891 & 3.1892 respectively.
love the look I know someone asked about the plug wire set up and you said Billet specialties I looked at there web site but from your pictures its a little hard to tell all you used would love to put this set up on my freshly built motor do you have the part numbers or quantity of what you used
love the look I know someone asked about the plug wire set up and you said Billet specialties I looked at there web site but from your pictures its a little hard to tell all you used would love to put this set up on my freshly built motor do you have the part numbers or quantity of what you used
I would not use that under driven crank pulley on a 403 or 455. I never got my cooling or charging where I wanted it till I got rid of it. Unfortunate to see yet another failed 455 build in this thread due to sub standard machine work.
love the look I know someone asked about the plug wire set up and you said Billet specialties I looked at there web site but from your pictures its a little hard to tell all you used would love to put this set up on my freshly built motor do you have the part numbers or quantity of what you used
I will sell you my setup if you are interested. I’m going to use bigger wires and they won’t work for me.
I have been using this size pully for years no problem its apparent to me that you may not know what your talking about I don't mind a little criticism but to say its another failed build not very nice since you know nothing of the internals of this motor witch by the way was built with input from Bernard Mondello not a back yard mechanic like yourself
don't be a hatter just because you only have a 350
Talking about the original starter of this thread on the failed build ajr2820, hope everything gets sorted out and it hauls ***. You can keep your 455, not jealous sorry to disappoint, less failed 350 builds. Of course I am stupidly building a 403 stroker. That tiny crank pulley always ran my 403 hot and I needed a 100+ amp alternator to charge properly. The March or CVF crank pulley eliminated both issues, similar in size to factory non A/C pulley.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; February 10th, 2020 at 11:26 AM.
Location: Colorado Springs Colorado/Thousand Oaks Ca
Posts: 1,719
Originally Posted by oldsdriver1218
I have been using this size pully for years no problem its apparent to me that you may not know what your talking about I don't mind a little criticism but to say its another failed build not very nice since you know nothing of the internals of this motor witch by the way was built with input from Bernard Mondello not a back yard mechanic like yourself
I like Bernard Mondello myself, carry on. Mind me asking your bearing clearance?
Last edited by VORTECPRO; February 10th, 2020 at 05:24 PM.
I have been using this size pully for years no problem its apparent to me that you may not know what your talking about I don't mind a little criticism but to say its another failed build not very nice since you know nothing of the internals of this motor witch by the way was built with input from Bernard Mondello not a back yard mechanic like yourself
I just warned you the pulley might cause issues being so under driven, caused me issues, used it as a jack extension. I have actually consulted Cutlassefi on this 424 build as well, getting parts from him. I pointed out one thing and you went into jerk mode. I had a chance to buy a 455 when I bought my 350. Know why I bought my 350 for way less in great original shape? The 455 was knocking, a lot for sale like that, he thought it was gold. People rev them like the 350 with stock clearances and boom, time and time again. This thread is a warning to the damage of improper machine work. We all love the Olds V8 but the 455 is less forgiving if not built with the right clearances.
Last edited by olds 307 and 403; February 11th, 2020 at 08:56 AM.
I'm sure I took it a little to personal have owned a cutlass with a 455 ever since I have been driving never really had ant issues any input is always welcome my bad
January 29th, 2020, 05:34 AM
