i recently got a 1968 88 from my father in pretty bad shape the mail problem is when i turn the key i get nothing....not even accessories...i checked the fuses and the battery is brand new i put on a new alternator...what could the problem be

 

More info needed....do you have headlights or any dash lights?....Is the ground cable on the block and positive batt cable on junction block under hood. Does accessory position work on ignition switch?...Gen light work on dash etc?....Possibly mice have chewed some wires under dash....start tracing wires and voltage with a meter from the battery back to fuse box and under dash.

 

i have no headlights or dash lights....the positive battery cable is a little chewed...nothing works no matter what position the switch is in....

 

a freind of mine put power directly to the generator and everything started working....how is that possible???

 

You probably have bad battery cables. They aren't expensive and worth replacing. Don't just put new terminations on the ends, buy a complete set of both negative and positive cables, clean the block (or head) where the negative cable attaches and the post on the generator where the positive cable attaches. Remove the positive one from the battery first, then the generator, then the negative one. Re-install in reverse order. If you wish, examine the old cables afterwards and split some of the insulation back from the ends and see how far the green crud/corrosion has traveled up the strands of the cable under the insulation. You may be surprised to see how far, especially the battery ends.

 

could the fuse box be a problem?? or the ignition switch?? or lock & cylinder piece??

 

Why does it always have to be mice, mice, mice!!! What about renegade opposums...or homeless raccoons..

 

i replaced the battery cables and i still have nothing when i turn the key...would i check the switch lock & cylinder next?? im thinking the problem is between the lock and cylinder and ignition switxch...any ideas

 

First thing to check is to make sure your battery cable has a short length of 10 gage wire running from the positive battery terminal to the horn relay/junction block on the left inner fender.

If someone has replaced battery cables and didn't bother to get the right ones, and you have no connection from battery to junction block, you'll have no battery power to the car's electrical system. That might explain why everything worked when your bud hooked onto the alternator wire, as it would backfeed into the main harness from the alternator. If the wire is missing, the car will also have charging issues as there is no way for the alternator to feed the battery. If it's there but hanging loose at the battery end, you risk a dead short to ground if it contacts metal and a very probable fire.

If yer power feed wire is in place: the 1968 big car has a fusible link in the main wiring harness. Based on your description it could be broken, corroded, or burned. Broken or corroded, simply replace it. Burned? you need to find out why. It's designed to burn thru in event of a major electrical overload, before it fries the entire harness.

Look on the horn relay/junction block at the left front of the engine compartment, near the washer jar. This is assuming the car has the original or correct replacement junction block.

The junction block has four wires attached to its post. A 10 gage red from the battery (+) to the junction block, a 10 gage red from the junction block to the alternator, an 18 gage red that goes to the voltage regulator, and a 12 gage red that feeds, among other things, the ignition switch, main light switch, and non-switched fuse block buss.

This 12 gage red has the fusible link in it. It will be a 16 gage brown or black wire at the junction block post. You can get a replacement fusible link at any parts store and simply splice it in. Whatever you do, don't just splice any old piece of wire into that harness. Fusible link wire is designed to burn thru in an overload condition and it's there for a reason.

Good luck and let us know what you find. What I've covered here is why it's a necessity to have a FACTORY service manual for these old cars.

 

Driving back from our club meeting last Sunday my wife and I stopped to help and young man with his hood up along side the road. 1964 chev. He said he was driving along and it just quit. I checked the battery and all cables. The battery had juice and the cables were fine. Next I checked the fuses, they were all ok. I had him turn on the head lights, they did not work. I had him stand in front of the car will I jiggled the connections at the firewall. First inside the car at the fuse block, nothing. Then I did the same thing at the fire wall connection. The lights came on and we were able to start the car. I followed him home and suggested he take the connector apart and clean all of the terminations.

Sounds like the same problem to me. Check it out

 

x2 on the fusible link. On my 76 delta it runs from the junction to the starter.

 

tryn to c what parts i can use from a 66 delta 88 for my 67 delta 88 can someone tell me. like steering colum, dash, my interior burnt up so interior parts im tryn to use any one please help.......

 

ok i got a fusible link and am about to be on the way to splicing it in..but on the battery cable there is a wire with a yellow connector on the end what is that for?? and it mite be possible i need a new battery or get it recharged which is a better idea

 

Before you replace the fusable link did you check on the line side of the fusable link to make sure you are getting power through the firewall. If you have power on the line side (firewall side) then check the load side of the fusable link to verify it is the problem.

The yellow spice cap the is on the positive side terminal of the battery cable is standard on after market battery cables and is used on some cars with accessary fuse boxes in the engine bay. Not sure if it is used for anything in your car. Someone else might chime in on this issue

 

Did you check to see if the cable has a wire run from the battery terminal to the junction block? If it doesn't, connect the yellow wire on the cable to the post on the junction block. I still think that's what's causing your whole problem, is that wire is missing or unhooked.

 

i put power on the battery side of the relay/junction block to do a test and the dome lights came on and then went off because i used some extra gauge wire i had laying around...im sure you all know it burned it up...what gauge wire is it so i can possible find a replacement???

 

That's as plain as I can make it, bo. I'm mighty concerned you're gonna keep dicking around and burn this car up.

You can get the correct wire and terminals at any parts store.

 

it lives!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! thanks for all the help guys

 

So what was the problem and the solution? We really are curious. Glad it is up and running.