Air Conditioning
#1
Air Conditioning
I'm thinking my next project will be to attempt to get my AC up and running (factory AC car). When I got the car all the parts were in the trunk and from what I can see I'm only missing the hose from the POA to the compressor.
My question is where do I start with a system that has been sitting open for an unknown time? I would like to try to stay with the R-12 if it will keep me from replacing parts to convert.
All the part under the dash are there and working.
Sweating in AZ.
My question is where do I start with a system that has been sitting open for an unknown time? I would like to try to stay with the R-12 if it will keep me from replacing parts to convert.
All the part under the dash are there and working.
Sweating in AZ.
#2
If you have all those parts and want to make a factory-looking reliable system, consider shipping it all to Classic Auto Air and have them rebuild / test / recondition / restore it all. They will also prepare it all for 134 if you want to convert. They will have the hose you need, too.
Since it is all removed already, you are that much further ahead.
It will not be cheap, but I think they have package discounts.
This is the direction i will go; I have heard good things about them.
Since it is all removed already, you are that much further ahead.
It will not be cheap, but I think they have package discounts.
This is the direction i will go; I have heard good things about them.
#4
Should replace the receiver/dryer for sure. If I were in AZ I would of got that working before the car ran.
You could always go with one of those old desert coolers that you put water in and hang off a side window?
That schematic doesn't show the AC muffler, must be from Sandy's car.
You could always go with one of those old desert coolers that you put water in and hang off a side window?
That schematic doesn't show the AC muffler, must be from Sandy's car.
#6
Gotta have the muff - you dont want the A/C noisier than the engine...
I would rebuild the POA valve since it is apart and they are not reproduced. They are full of deteriorating rubber parts and can clog from contaminents. Classic Auto Air will do this and restore it cosmetically for about 160. This part must be calibrated for R134 if you choose to convert - this would be part of the rebuild charge.
I would rebuild the POA valve since it is apart and they are not reproduced. They are full of deteriorating rubber parts and can clog from contaminents. Classic Auto Air will do this and restore it cosmetically for about 160. This part must be calibrated for R134 if you choose to convert - this would be part of the rebuild charge.
#7
#8
AC relay
Any way I could get one of you to post a pic of your AC relay on the passenger fender? I also need the pic to show the wire colors. Mine has 2 green and a brown, I think it is missing a hot to the horn relay with a fuse holder.
#9
I see you're in Arizona... if you're close to Phoenix, try AAPAK. They rebuild the compressors and hoses and should have what you need. They're just a parts vendor though, and don't do the installs.
#10
Update
Thought I would update my progress on the AC. I flushed the compressor with ester (compatable with both R12 & R134A) oil and filled, replaced the dryer, expansion valve, replaced the lines, new holdin relay and high speed fan relay, original POA tested good. Flushed the complete system (not the muffler) with mineral spirits and final flush with brake cleaner and lots of shop air. Replaced all the Orings with green ones and put the remaining oil throught the system 11oz total.
Pulled a deep vacuum -30 and let it sit for 3 days, no loss of vacuum, repulled it and installed 12oz of R12 on the high side as a liquid WITH THE ENGINE OFF. close the high side valve (never open the high side with the engine running) started the engine and installed the remainder of 4lb as a vapor.
Pressures are good and 38-42 vent temps. VERY COOL
Pulled a deep vacuum -30 and let it sit for 3 days, no loss of vacuum, repulled it and installed 12oz of R12 on the high side as a liquid WITH THE ENGINE OFF. close the high side valve (never open the high side with the engine running) started the engine and installed the remainder of 4lb as a vapor.
Pressures are good and 38-42 vent temps. VERY COOL
#11
Nice work! Wanna drive out to TX and do mine??
Let us know how it works in those hot drives. I am curious to know how well the factory AC systems really work.
Mine never worked great, but I think it had issues when i got the car.
Let us know how it works in those hot drives. I am curious to know how well the factory AC systems really work.
Mine never worked great, but I think it had issues when i got the car.
#12
Rob, this is a very easy DIY project and the old POA systems cool very well with R12.
I was quoted $800-$1200 to convert to R134A and my cost, less the spendy R12 was less then $200
getting 38 degree vent temps all day long
MPG was a real shocker 6-8 running the AC BUT SURE IS COOL AND NICE TO HAVE THE WINDOWS UP.
I was quoted $800-$1200 to convert to R134A and my cost, less the spendy R12 was less then $200
getting 38 degree vent temps all day long
MPG was a real shocker 6-8 running the AC BUT SURE IS COOL AND NICE TO HAVE THE WINDOWS UP.
Last edited by AZ442; August 10th, 2010 at 07:39 AM.
#14
Congrats on the A/C. Very nice on these hot days. I was lucky on mine. I replaced the relay, the high speed fuse, and hooked all the duct work back up and mine works again.
Rob, I was surprised how well it works. Granted, it's not as good as todays cars, but it makes riding with the top up very comfortable. Even while overcoming a black top and interior.
I have 4 cans I have hoarded up over the years. Not sure where you would get it "new"
C195 do you have a 195? I have a 1956 172 that is a great flyer. I have always loved the 195's ....... one day......
I have 4 cans I have hoarded up over the years. Not sure where you would get it "new"
C195 do you have a 195? I have a 1956 172 that is a great flyer. I have always loved the 195's ....... one day......
#15
You can still find it often at National Meets/Car Shows like OCA, BCA or the Cad-Lasalle Clubs...12 OZ cans have gotten much more reasonable in the last few years -- when Duponts Trademark first ran out and they were forcing R-134 on us all people started hoarding the R-12 BigTime and it got outrageously expensive! Just about any good/big swap meet will have vendors selling cans or cases of the cans now..people want to just get rid of it again.
Commercially, you have to have a license to buy it now. If you can, it makes sense to KEEP your Old R-12 System using that; it cools far better and the Conversions still leave much to be desired IMHO...
I THINK I've seen 12 Oz. cans of R-12 on average going for about 40 Bucks; not super cheap; but not outrageous like years ago...
Commercially, you have to have a license to buy it now. If you can, it makes sense to KEEP your Old R-12 System using that; it cools far better and the Conversions still leave much to be desired IMHO...
I THINK I've seen 12 Oz. cans of R-12 on average going for about 40 Bucks; not super cheap; but not outrageous like years ago...
#16
Glad to hear you got your A/C working. Mine's been dead for years too - hope to get it working someday. You mentioned you got a new hold-in relay and fan relay, where did you get them? I haven't been able to find replacements, particularly for the hold-in relay.
Last edited by O's_Car; August 10th, 2010 at 09:17 PM. Reason: spelling
#18
R12 can be found on Graigslist, about $20-$25 for a 12oz can around here.
The holdin relay I found on ebay, althow after replacing it, I took mine apart cleaned it up and tested to find the coil was good so I cleaned the contacts and have a spare.
I also installed a switch in the cab, switching the ground to the coil so we have driver control.
The holdin relay I found on ebay, althow after replacing it, I took mine apart cleaned it up and tested to find the coil was good so I cleaned the contacts and have a spare.
I also installed a switch in the cab, switching the ground to the coil so we have driver control.
#19
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