Any recomendations for oxidized exterior paint? Besides a new paint job. LOL. I've got a random orbitol buffer but I'd like to hear what you guys would use as far as pads, compounds or polishes. Just want to clean up my 1970 98 (Astro Blue) for the summer. I've seen people bring out at least some luster in some pretty crappy paint. Paint job will come when funds build up again.
Tom.

 

If it's really bad, a random orbital won't do it. You need a high speed buffer. Which if used incorrectly can and will damage/burn through your paint. Take it to a detail shop and have them do it. If you feel comfortable enough to use a high speed buffer, then get in touch with Eastwood, they have some great stuff for that.

If you don't want to go that far, meguirs profesional line is incredible. You can't buy it at stores, it's in a tan bottle. Go to http://www.firstplaceautollc.com/
Thay're who I deal with. Great people and they ship. They will tell you exactly what you need to do what you want. As a matter of fact, they even can help you with a high speed buffer.

 

This stuff is stinking amazing: http://www.flitz.com/index.html

I bought a 5 oz. tube for about $23. I don't know what it does, or how it does it, but it makes the old paint look fabulous, it takes out the fog from old plastic, it cleans chrome as well as any chrome polishes I colllected, and once when my daughter spilled BOTH a blue-printed plastic bag AND nail-polish remover into the sink (acrylic?) only Flitz removed the blue back to new.

People are selling it on eBay as well.

 

Use Turtle Wax Polishing Compound it works great. I am not into those high priced Nu-Finish materials. I wash both of my cars often and haven't found any "magic" formulas that I just have to own.

 

Now, not to argue, Olds64, but I tried to save Big Bucks and I actually bought a Turtle Wax Polishing Compound. It was relatively inexpensive and made the paint look "kinda nice". It didn't compare, however, to what happened to the paint with Flitz. In other words, in my opinion the Turtle Wax made the old paint shiny, but Flitz turned the old paint into new.

By the way, it sounds like you have some experience at least with Nu-Finish. Do you know what it is, and what its long-term effects might be? Do you think it's related to Flitz? I sure would like to know. In any case, what the Flitz did to my test area on my 1954 Maize Cream paint still looks good 10 months later.

 

I have used Nu-Finish before but it didn't seem to do any better than any other compounds I have used on paint. Of all the materials one can use to detail and clean a car I have certain ones that I use just because I like them and they work well. For instance, I use 2001 vinyl spray because it smells good and works well.

 

I didn't realize Flitz could be used on "delicate" painted surfaces. I've always used it on my stainless steel revolvers, and it's good at cleaning the powder off of the cylinder. I'll try both in a small area first. Thanks.
Tom.

 

I use a 0-1750 rpm variable speed polisher, you can still burn paint with it so you have to keep it moving constantly like anything. I have a single speed 2450 rpm polisher but it is a bear, better as a sander IMO. I use the Meguiar's in the brown bottles too, you can start as aggressive as you want and work you way up to the final polish, takes out a lot of the guesswork. I have had good luck bringing back scratched and orange-peeled clear coats with it (and a lot of wet sanding), the paint is so deep it looks like you could dive in when you're done. I like the Meguiar's because it is paintable, so no refinishing problems with the old paint. I always wonder if those miracle paint restorers could have silicones or some other chemicals in them that could cause bodywork/finishing trouble down the road?

Allan

 

HMM has a good read on bringing back old paint.