OK guys, shoot the lacquer! And I'll admit I've seen newer cars that do have a plastic look to them. I call it the "Saran Wrap" look. More noticeable in some color than others. From what I heard it's from the clear getting cloudy over time.
But from the time I started fooling with cars in the 70's glossy paint was the thing to have. The glossier the better! For me, I still like glossy paint. And prefer it as durable as I can get it. My 66 Jetstar 88 & 67 Cutlass will get base coat/ clear coat because they're metallic. The 70 3/4 truck is orange and my 69 442 is black. Both solid colors (no metallic) and will be single stage acrylic urethane paint.
Run to Rund - The biggest wheels I have are 15" and the only nitrous I ever had was at the dentist office, once - 15 or 20 years ago.
I didn't get to paint those wheels I mentioned, had to work late. And you already confirmed the DP**LF with acrylic lacquer. I would agree that it would be a great sealer. Anyone considering it should plan to spray it just prior to the topcoat. (w/ about an hour wait for drying) The recoat window is only 24 hours. And it's not considered sandable. Are the other modern two part primer/surfacers OK with acrylic lacquer? I know their much better than the old lacquer primer/surfacers. Seems like they would be if sealed with the DPLF. Interesting!
Oldsmaniac - Yeah the new paints cost more, much more! But I spend a lot of time repairing rust, replacing parts, doing dent repair and leveling panels. Maybe I fool with cars others would consider parts cars. But I do it at the CC and the other guys are doing the same to their cars. So at best I'll have 100 hours in prep work (more like 200) before I spray any topcoat. Guess I prefer to put some durable paint over all that work. Yeah it'll cost me a few hundred bucks more. But maybe I'll get a few extra years before I have to think about doing it again.
And if I painted it, I know what's there and should be able to repair it later.
Don